How low can I build?

[Susan~S]

I recently purchased both a mini & full size Woodvil and a couple of RM2's. I also have AW IMR batteries and am well versed in battery safety, ohms law and amp draw. I don't have sub-ohm contacts installed.

1. How low can I build and not exceed the Woodvills contacts (switch?) rating?
2. If I were to purchase a sub-ohm kit (for the full size Woodvile) how low could I go and not exceed the contacts rating.
3. Can I use other IMR (Li-MN) or IMR/Hybrid batteries or are AW IMR batteries the only batteries recommended for all Reo's?

I see more REO's in my future!

 

[Rickajho]

Hey Susan

The switch upgrade parts won't do you any good with a Woodvil - completely different construction.

 

[RattlerX]

see next post...lol

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The Woodvil on/off switch is rated at 3 amps, the fire button is rated at 5 amps. these are 12 volt continuous ratings so we can push on them a bit since we are at 4.2 volts max and doing short bursts. I personally won't go below .7 ohms on my woodvils.

The gold upgraded spring in the Woodvil will reduce the voltage drop of the spring so the same coil will hit harder. To replace the spring yourself requires some basic soldering. You can also solder across the pins of the on/off switch bypassing it. This remove the 3amp switch from the flow and further lower the voltage drop. But it will always be on.

 

[RattlerX]

Good catch FB correction needed for my earlier post

 

[eratikmind]

Hey, Susan. Welcome to Reoville.

 

[supertrunker]

I happily run a woodvil at 0.5Ω. Even if you go on the weakest link - the switch, 3A @12v = 36W of power it can handle.

My coil outs 35W.

Of course, wood is also flammable and i'd rather not bypass anything.

Batteries are a please yourself affair now. It's true to say that the metal Reo Grand was built to use button top AW's, but with new contacts and the rest, that's no longer true. I use flat-top batteries in my woodvil and whatever i please in the Grands.

T

 

[Susan~S]

I'm still confused.

Stock mini Woodvil & full size Woodville (no upgrades) -- Wouldn't the lowest I should build be ~ 1.5ohms because the switch is rated at 3amp?

Where does the 12v continuous come into play? Maybe it will be more clear to me if I run all this through my ohms calculator.

 

[JC Okie]

I run .9 - 1.1 ohms with my Woodvils all the time. Actually, that's my personal sweet spot, so that's what I run through my metals, too, whether they've had the upgrade or not.

 

[supertrunker]

The parts used are used in 12v systems, so they are rated as such.

We use a 4.2v system, which is a little less taxing on them, allowing extra brutality! Ohms law does not change, just the values you use for the calculation.

T

 

[Susan~S]

The parts used are used in 12v systems, so they are rated as such.

We use a 4.2v system, which is a little less taxing on them, allowing extra brutality! Ohms law does not change, just the values you use for the calculation.
T

Got it! The whole switch/contact issue adds another layer of complexity to things (when compared to operating mech mods as I know them). Let me mull this all over and I'll be back tomorrow with a few more questions.

Thank you all!

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Got it! The whole switch/contact issue adds another layer of complexity to things (when compared to operating mech mods as I know them). Let me mull this all over and I'll be back tomorrow with a few more questions.

Thank you all!

Use your ohms law calc but put in 12v and 3 amps you'll get 36 watts

Now same calc change the volts to 4.2 and watts to 36 you'll get .49 ohms

I like a little safety margin so .7 ohm for me.

Rattlerx, your number is correct if you bypass the on/off switch and do the calculations with 5 amps at 12 volts = .29 ohms

 

[Rickajho]

I'm still confused.

Stock mini Woodvil & full size Woodville (no upgrades) -- Wouldn't the lowest I should build be ~ 1.5ohms because the switch is rated at 3amp?

I know this was covered here - somewhere. I just went through the ginormous Reo thread index but didn't see it covered there. But I did find a thing I was looking for.

Hmmm... flipflipflip... What I keep seeing is reference to 0.8 to 1.0 ohms as the accepted low end limit, with 0.5 ohms being used by a few people as well - in or out of context of taking the on/off switch out of the equation as suggested by FB.

I guess the more relevant question is: How low do you want to build on your Woodvils?

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

... and bear in mind that the catch cup on the woodies is going to pretty much mean you're doing single coil builds ('cause of atties that fit it). Pretty hard to get single coil builds below .5 ohms that you'd enjoy (except for, maybe, some extreme parallel coils).

 

[Susan~S]

Use your ohms law calc but put in 12v and 3 amps you'll get 36 watts

Now same calc change the volts to 4.2 and watts to 36 you'll get .49 ohms

I like a little safety margin so .7 ohm for me.

So the "safety margin" you are referring to is with regards to the 3amp switch. If I understand this then:

1. my full size stock Woodvill (no sub-ohm kit installed) theoretically be run as low as .49ohms with a 20A battery (no safety margin for the switch). Correct me if I have this wrong. I'm with you as far as leaving some headroom for safety so I would not build that low.

2. my stock mini Woodvil theoretically be run as low as .49ohms with regards to the switch (no safety margin for the switch). BUT since the batteries I am using have a 4 amp limit I can only run a build that respects this limit which would be 1.1 ohm (no safety headroom). In this case I would give myself 25% safety headroom (3A vs 4A) and not build below 1.4ohms

I guess the more relevant question is: How low do you want to build on your Woodvils?

Probably nothing under .7 (maybe not even that low). I just like to understand what the limitations are for ALL the equipment I use. And from a safety standpoint I need to make sure I am being SAFE as I have progressive MS with all of the accompanying lack of: mobility/strength/balance/fine tune dexterity challenges. I have many other MS challenges, but these are the ones that apply to vaping.

I have mech mods and the lowest I have run is .37 (with a Sony VTC5) and I didn't care for it. But I have not played around with all the variables in terms of different gauge wire, different diameter coil, twisted wire, dual parallel builds, etc. I may buy some coils off ebay and experiment. I have tried making my own coils but it is very hard (and takes a long, long time). When my local vape shop makes my coils I use them for a month or longer if I like the build.

Ideally, I am looking for a dense, flavorful, very warm (not HOT), 5 second lung hit! I'll start a separate thread on this once I fully understand all my equipment.

... and bear in mind that the catch cup on the woodies is going to pretty much mean you're doing single coil builds ('cause of atties that fit it). Pretty hard to get single coil builds below .5 ohms that you'd enjoy (except for, maybe, some extreme parallel coils).

Got it, thanks! I don't see extreme parallel coils ever being in my woodies.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Sounds like you got a great handle on it. Remember as you try different builds air flow is as big or bigger importance to the vape than the ohm of the coil. I can make a .5 ohm coil vape cooler than a 1.3 ohm just by changing the airflow on both.

 

[Susan~S]

Sounds like you got a great handle on it. Remember as you try different builds air flow is as big or bigger importance to the vape than the ohm of the coil. I can make a .5 ohm coil vape cooler than a 1.3 ohm just by changing the airflow on both.

Thanks Filthy-Beast for the confirmation on my understanding of things. I now know the safety limits to respect regarding my beautiful Woodvils! And thanks to everyone who contributed to educating me!

I have a stock RM2 and a 1/16" drilled out RM2 on the way. I soon will be able to experience the difference in these two.

I have a Magma, 2 Foggers, a Pontus, a Big Dripper, all with great airflow. I even bought a KFL+ (even though I knew it was limited with regards to airflow). I was pleasantly surprised when I first tried the stock RM2. It's airflow (and flavor) is much better than the Kayfun even with identical builds.

 

[supertrunker]

I'm rather fond of extreme parallel coils, but only on a big atty on a big mechanical mod, with big batteries. My wood mods deserve a little more sympathy than the usual thrashing my metal grands endure.

I agree with Susan - you have to know the limits of your equipment as well as how much risk you are personally prepared to take, in order to get the best from them. Safety is important, but not to the extent that i'll use VTC5's on a fuse-protected tube mod with a 3Ω coil!

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Thanks Filthy-Beast for the confirmation on my understanding of things. I now know the safety limits to respect regarding my beautiful Woodvils! And thanks to everyone who contributed to educating me!

I have a stock RM2 and a 1/16" drilled out RM2 on the way. I soon will be able to experience the difference in these two.

I have a Magma, 2 Foggers, a Pontus, a Big Dripper, all with great airflow. I even bought a KFL+ (even though I knew it was limited with regards to airflow). I was pleasantly surprised when I first tried the stock RM2. It's airflow (and flavor) is much better than the Kayfun even with identical builds.

I think you'll really like .7 ohm coil with the RM2 and 1/16 air flow. That combo is really what I judge all other builds against for flavor. Even my Chalice at more than 3 times the cost is only slight better, not 3 times better or even twice.

 

[supertrunker]

I judge every atty by its performance against RM2's, which is why i have a lot of discarded ones in front of me.

The metrics i use are not just flavour and cloud-chasing performance, but ease of building and so on. If it takes me 45 mins to make a setup for a particular atty, when i can bash out a RM2 build in under 10, then it's a problem!

HRH only uses RM2s and has no interest in anything else. Since i make her coils i'm rather pleased about that.

T