Im ready for and upgrade from a spinner 2 battery with a kanger Aerotank V2. I want to get into building coils. Do I need 30, 40 , 50 or 100 watt mod? Some tanks that interested me is the Kanger Subtank mini, kayfuns, Atlantis for example. The mods is my problem because I don't know the minimum watts I should get? I was looking at the eleaf I stick 50 watt, Rdna 40, etc... Clouding not important to me but if I wanted to maybe so.
How much wattage or voltage do I really need?
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1.21 gigawatts. It'll send you into the future (or the past, if you so desire).
Seriously, though, you can build coils for every battery from your spinner, to the 400-watt God Mod.
BUT if you want to build your own coils, the Subtank and Atlantis are really poor choices (Not designed to be rebuldable); the Kayfuns are better, but either an RDA or some of the more modern RTA's (Squape, Erlkonigin) would be much better choices IMHO.
Seriously, though, you can build coils for every battery from your spinner, to the 400-watt God Mod.
BUT if you want to build your own coils, the Subtank and Atlantis are really poor choices (Not designed to be rebuldable); the Kayfuns are better, but either an RDA or some of the more modern RTA's (Squape, Erlkonigin) would be much better choices IMHO.
Single coil Kayfun-style rebuildables require no more than 50w most of the time. If you're going dual coil RDAs and RBAs, then you might enjoy more overhead.
How much are you looking to spend? What features interest you?
In general, I'd try to stick with devices running an authentic evolv or yihi chip (Sigelei, IPV, Vaproshark, etc) which will put you in $60-$300 range.
How much are you looking to spend? What features interest you?
In general, I'd try to stick with devices running an authentic evolv or yihi chip (Sigelei, IPV, Vaproshark, etc) which will put you in $60-$300 range.
see just to have it, you may not want it, but you have it... so go with a 150 watt.. nice to have
I never thought I would go past 40, but I bought the sig 100 and love it, next on the list is the sig 150, for around 100 bucks Its hard to go wrong.
I would also keep other features in mind for quality and flexibility. I made a list of Mods that people suggested and then I started comparing them. It just saves money.
Oh, New tanks have been coming out that you buy the coils for. They are different in that you don't build the coils. If you want one where you build the coils, the Lemo seems to get a lot of good reviews.
There is a lot of stuff to consider. Good luck
Oh, New tanks have been coming out that you buy the coils for. They are different in that you don't build the coils. If you want one where you build the coils, the Lemo seems to get a lot of good reviews.
There is a lot of stuff to consider. Good luck
First off I would say their is a watt war taking place between all the regulated vv/vw devices but in all honesty I don't think you need any more than 50w device. This I believe would be your first regulated wattage device. Start off slow is my suggestion.
Be aware of the minimum wattage as well as the maximum. With a spinner you are used to vaping at around 5-6W. Many of the higher powered mods don't go below 7W.
I'd have to say you can't beat the price of some of the new 50w devices coming out. I preordered the iStick 50w which looks to be an outstanding all-around device. I've been building for several months and since my taste sweet-spot is in the 1.0 to 1.8 ohm range, I rarely go above 20 watts. But I might try some high-ohm/high-wattage builds...heard some good things. Of course, I am going to be getting a DNA 40 device in the near future as well.
I agree with Boomer. I have an IPV mini, that has a 30W max. I'm not into sub-ohming so only use between 12 and 17 watts normally, depending on the tank. I can push 20 watts on my Kayfuns, but I get a satisfactory vape around 15. Every once in a while I'll pull out my Magma and run it up to 25 watts.
I was looking at the 50 watt Istick. Also the rdna 40. The istick for right now looks like the best bang for the buck. I will purchase one or the other.
While mostly true for the Atlantis, not true for the Sub Tank and Sub Tank Mini, both of them come with an RBA deck. You can also rebuild the heads in both the Atlantis and subtanks if you so wish.
OP - I agree with what many have said here; 30W is enough for most vapers out there. It handles both the Atlantis and subtanks (20-30 watt) .5ohm coils just fine. Don't go overboard on this one, you don't need to drop huge cash to have a good vape. Instead of dropping $100+ on a higher wattage device, I'd spend the extra $ on a good 30 w mod, a good charger, and a few GOOD batteries!
So at least a good 30 watt device seems to be a good start or minimum for RBA and RDA.
I am also in this dilemma as I'm upgrading from an EVOD 2. Purchased my Subtank and now choosing a box mod and I think I'm 99% sure I'm leaning towards the Sigelei 100W Plus. Whats the difference between the 100W Plus and the 150W besides the 50W more. Are the the same ?
If you have the scratch get a DNA 40 or the sx mini. May be a bit less wattage, but they are way higher in quality when it comes to build and the chips inside. If you want to go budget, get the istick 50. All the huge watt mods are good for is guzzling juice.
I've had no issues with the 100 plus. That said, it's big. I don't mind the size in cold weather because of big pockets on coats and whatnot but am picking up a smaller mod for warm weather while the sig will be replacing my mech to serve dripper duty.
The fit and finish is top notch and being made of metal, is very stout. After sigelei added the spring loaded 510 and screwless magnetic back, the 100w is a home run.
No offense on the DNA 40 as I was looking at one myself.... But there's no way I'd sink that much cash into a line of chips that have been having serious issues as of late.
People say the updated DNA 40 fixed the problems. Well, we don't really know that just yet.
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The fit and finish is top notch and being made of metal, is very stout. After sigelei added the spring loaded 510 and screwless magnetic back, the 100w is a home run.
No offense on the DNA 40 as I was looking at one myself.... But there's no way I'd sink that much cash into a line of chips that have been having serious issues as of late.
People say the updated DNA 40 fixed the problems. Well, we don't really know that just yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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