Bad connections would show good without an atty since a meter alone does not draw that much current but with an atty attached, you are drawing 2 or more amps and that will show up any bad connection.
How to: Build the Puck
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Bad connections would show good without an atty since a meter alone does not draw that much current but with an atty attached, you are drawing 2 or more amps and that will show up any bad connection.
Do you have another set of batteries? I had the same problem with a new set where one of the batteries was not up to par. I believe they may have been rayovac also. I use energizers and duacell myself. I also have some from 1000 MAH from CVS drugstore that are actually really good and do last longer. Try another set of batteries if you have them. Also sometimes you need to discharge the batteries a couple of times and recharge them to get them to work to their full potencial but I only had that happen a couple of times.
I've been using the Puck design for over a year and a half now and always pick up a set of batteries just to have around when they are on sale somewhere.
Your wiring looks good and the wire size is good. I'm just wondering if it is the jack. The weird thing you mentioned is the voltage being lower with a higher ohm atty. That just doesn't make any sense unless it's a bad battery. That would make sense then.
Do you mean the voltage drop being less with a higher ohm atty? The 2.0 ohm atty gave me a reading of about 3.3 to 3.4v under load whereas the 2.5 ohm atty gave me a reading of about 3.6 to 3.7v under load.
I'll take your advice and try a different set of batteries, maybe even try 3 alkalines with a jumper just to check.
Regarding the connections, I recently made another box mod with the same shoddy soldering skills that I utilized with the Puck and the voltage drop is normal (they're 2 14500s in parallel and the voltage drop is only from about 4.1 to 3.8 under load). The only real differences are the connectors I'm using on each (actual 510 connector on the mod with 14500s) and the batteries. I'm using the same switches, they're all boxes from radio shack, etc. So I think the connections and the components are alright. However, like I said, I'll try with different batteries, these batteries after a cycle or 2 of charging, and so on before I go and rip it apart and redo the wiring.
Even with the voltage drop, I like the vape a lot and have been using the Puck a lot yesterday and today. Great mod, ThePuck!
That's probably the problem. If they are like the Sanyo Eneloops they are charging to a lower voltage than standard NiMHs. The Eneloops (also a pre-charged type) wouldn't even fire my camera, yet the standards do.
That said 2Ω will put quite a hit on any cell.
Not yet, although I haven't been using it or working on it recently. I made a few other mods since and just got a Phidias so it's kind of fallen by the wayside. However, I did just get in a sealed connector that I will be replacing the RCA jack with, and hopefully that will fix the problem. I will post a follow-up and let you know how it turns out.
So I've done some testing on my various mods...
Changed the connector I was using on the puck. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference at all. Still getting around 3.4v under load while having 5.1v without load. I've got the AAA rechargeables in the charger right now and will see if that makes a difference.
From what I can tell, I was not experiencing such a voltage drop with my top-fed mod that I built - dropping from around 4v to 3.5-3.6v under load.
The bottom fed mod that I built is experiencing a drop to around 3.3v from 4v under load.
I also tested the Phidias I just got and the voltage drop is only about 3.9v to 3.5-3.6v.
I was thinking it could be the switches that are used on my respective mods. On my top-fed and on the puck, they both have the stock on/off switch wired up, as well as the proper pushbutton switch as referred to in this thread. The bottom-fed mod also has this stock on/off switch wired up, but it has a lower rated push button switch - rated for .5A from radio shack.
I don't think it is a switch issue, though, since the Puck and the top-fed are experiencing different magnitudes of drop using both of the same switches. However, this difference may also be due to the fact that my top-fed mod uses 2 14500s in parallel, so maybe that has some mitigating effect against such a significant drop under load.
Not sure where to go now, but I figure I can just use low resistance attys and solve this low voltage problem.
I'll try the AAAs after they're recharged and see how it goes, as well.
Changed the connector I was using on the puck. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference at all. Still getting around 3.4v under load while having 5.1v without load. I've got the AAA rechargeables in the charger right now and will see if that makes a difference.
From what I can tell, I was not experiencing such a voltage drop with my top-fed mod that I built - dropping from around 4v to 3.5-3.6v under load.
The bottom fed mod that I built is experiencing a drop to around 3.3v from 4v under load.
I also tested the Phidias I just got and the voltage drop is only about 3.9v to 3.5-3.6v.
I was thinking it could be the switches that are used on my respective mods. On my top-fed and on the puck, they both have the stock on/off switch wired up, as well as the proper pushbutton switch as referred to in this thread. The bottom-fed mod also has this stock on/off switch wired up, but it has a lower rated push button switch - rated for .5A from radio shack.
I don't think it is a switch issue, though, since the Puck and the top-fed are experiencing different magnitudes of drop using both of the same switches. However, this difference may also be due to the fact that my top-fed mod uses 2 14500s in parallel, so maybe that has some mitigating effect against such a significant drop under load.
Not sure where to go now, but I figure I can just use low resistance attys and solve this low voltage problem.
I'll try the AAAs after they're recharged and see how it goes, as well.
This might sound stupid ( or paranoid) but , this post should be saved as a pdf file.
If these instructions (and others) were saved outside of a webpage , it would insure that DIY ers ( with bad memory
LOL)would have a hardcopy of this knowledge to work with ( in case commercial PVs are banned !!!)... 
If these instructions (and others) were saved outside of a webpage , it would insure that DIY ers ( with bad memory
LOL)would have a hardcopy of this knowledge to work with ( in case commercial PVs are banned !!!)...
I'm still vaping on a set of batteries that are over 7 hours of pretty heavy use and unloaded it is reading 5.21v and loaded 4.30v, less than a volt dropped when loaded (I have a voltage meter built into this one. When the switch is on, it shows the loaded. When the switch is off, it shows the unloaded voltage
). I have also used .5 amp push button switches and never had a problem with them. You should not be having a problem. I also use the normal wires that are the battery box leads. Nothing any bigger. I am using a 901 atty which is about 3.1 ohms.
Not sure where you need to go from here.
This might sound stupid ( or paranoid) but , this post should be saved as a pdf file.
If these instructions (and others) were saved outside of a webpage , it would insure that DIY ers ( with bad memory
When I get a bit of extra time, I might just throw it into a pdf. Your idea really makes sense
Thanks for this awesome mod.... It's ingenious and i'm a real fan of the great battery life.When I get a bit of extra time, I might just throw it into a pdf. Your idea really makes sense
Ok I built this perfect but I tried to use a 808 cartomizer. Is it true ( I bet cause he calls for a 901) I need a 901 cart and atomizer? The light goes on, and it seems to work, except nothing else happens. All connections are flawless and neat., IDK Can be the only thing. Maybe connection is not being made by my 808 carto's?
Yup checked all connections, and re-did the tutorial like 4 times now. Just to make sure all is right. Theirs really only a few parts, so that was easy.
I did not check voltage cause I am a bit rusty on my skills, BUT, I built it exact as tutorial shows. Very strange. You don't think the 901/808 carto atomizer is the problem?Calls for a 901 atomizer, I am using a 808 carto. Like I said, light goes on, but no vape.
I assume I test at carto and it should be 3.7 or so. I will do that now.
Yup, I read 0.0 nothing at connector. Hmmmmmm. Well I might just give up an buy what I want. This was supposed to be easy for a college graduate. LMAO I know it is my fault, I went to school for this and cannot do it, and others with no experience have. SO its me. **throws it in garbage, orders a Wetbox** Thats what I wanted to eventually build. LOL
I did not check voltage cause I am a bit rusty on my skills, BUT, I built it exact as tutorial shows. Very strange. You don't think the 901/808 carto atomizer is the problem?Calls for a 901 atomizer, I am using a 808 carto. Like I said, light goes on, but no vape.
I assume I test at carto and it should be 3.7 or so. I will do that now.
Yup, I read 0.0 nothing at connector. Hmmmmmm. Well I might just give up an buy what I want. This was supposed to be easy for a college graduate. LMAO I know it is my fault, I went to school for this and cannot do it, and others with no experience have. SO its me. **throws it in garbage, orders a Wetbox** Thats what I wanted to eventually build. LOL
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That means the carto has a shallow connector. You will need to extend the center pin up a bit by soldering a rivot or other small peice of metal to extend the pin up. You can try a small peice of aluminum foil balled up on the center pin so it hits the bottom of the carto. Just don't let it touch the sides or lightning will happen
This is why I keep you guys around. Can't wait to try it! Thank you so much for the instructions!
Tried the atty and nope, I must of done the bridge wrong on the connector. IDK, I am 99% sure it is all built right, but the thing is just a fancy button light still. Oh well, I ordered a wetbox, to curb my dream of building this myself. I have started a new flashlight mod instead. I will see if I FAIL there too. lmao lmao Thanx Puck and everyone for help, seems I stumped ya guys. lol
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