How to fix a leaking Line, Complete Disassembly and fix

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Scubabatdan

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Ok, let me first apologize to Van and Del if I step on toes for showing how to disassemble this. But after my wife’s repeated complaints about this leaking from around the clear insert, and not wanting to ship this back to Croatia, I decided to disassemble it myself and document it so it might help someone else in a similar situation. First of all the threaded insert is pressed in, so it can be removed with little effort.

Ok let begin, first remove the wick and straighten the silver wire.
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Next remove the 510 connector. I used a 510 to 810 adapter in a vise to wiggle it loose.
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Remove the 510 connector completely, you will notice that there are two plastic tubes running from the bottom to the top. Pull them out from the bottom.
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Neat trick, put the cap on, and use a quarter to pry up rotating to move it up evenly.
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Insert removed
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All the pieces, Now there is no sealant on the tube at all. So if you tighten the cap to tight it will pull the insert slightly away from the clear tube resulting in a leak.
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What I did is got some food safe silicone.
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Put a little on a Q-tip and coated the bevel on the inside of the clear tube. I did the bottom first and then slid it into the main bottom. I then did the top side to include the side wall of the main body and then pressed the insert back into place.
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I then used a paper clip, and slid the plastic tubing onto it and used it sa a guide to install the plastic tubes without bending. Makes it easier to align it with the top hole.
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Both tubes installed (Top)
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Both tubes installed (Bottom)
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510 connector pressed back in, and wick reinstalled.
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Mounted on an ego battery.
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Complete, just need to let the silicone dry.
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Now, after completing this I have found that the 510 connector does not need to be removed, you should be able to pry the insert out and coat the bevel of the clear tube with silicone and reinstall. This would have made it a lot easier and faster to complete without removing the 510 connector. Also once apart clean it with alchohol so the silicon will adhere to the SS body providing a good seal.
Well I hope this helps you to understand your line a little better.
Dan
 
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Scubabatdan

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Excellent tutorial, thanks for posting!

Looking at it, I wonder if there's any potential for modding this thing. Would M2 rods fit in place of the wires? Sure would make mounting the coil wire a lot easier, rather than having to wrap around those silver wires.

Thanks, Actually you could modify it so you only use 1 M2 Rod from the center pin, and then tap one hole on top for the neg screw. That way you use the body as the ground and then the pos post would be a screw and 2 nuts.
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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I slashed my fingers up with the windows. The shoo where van got these made didn't care too much about dulling sharp edges up lol. It's dull now and polished up. Still sitting in my tool box tho dissassembled :-( waiting for 0-80 rod to get here.

Ahhhh cool, took my advice and went with the 0-80 SS rods. Very cool, would like to see pics of the progress. Did you find out what the hole size is for the neg connection? I took a caliper and measured drill bits and found one that was .091 and used it in my tests for the prototype of the GTUS. So find a drill bit close to .092 then see if it fits or is to big. If it is too big then you can drill it out to a depth of 1/8" and I can send you an EZ-Loc insert to try, and a 1/8" 0-80 SS screw.
Dan
 

urquidezj

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Too big unfortunately the hole is 2mm and extremely close to the center hole for the wick. If I do drill it, ill make the two holes become one. If it try to drill offset to it so I can be centered the drill will follow. I've contemplated drilling it thru turning some delrin and press it in there and make the holes big but I don't wanna mess with the original setup, tho in reality I already am. Idonno :-\ will continue posting progress on this thread not on the line one. I just hope my other Atty bulli knock off doesn't crap out on me for the time being.
 
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