So I did do a search, but couldn't find a fix. Just got my beautiful Xlong auto cigar color batt, but it has a very airy draw. I want a strong draw, so i hope Snow or Morandir can give me a quick tip 
How to fix airy draw on Titan?
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plantlvr, here's my post of a minute ago:
JRob, I've had this issue with some of the auto batteries, and not just Titans. I end up plugging one of the air intake holes on the battery (one of the three on the sides) and it does seem to help. I've used a broken-off toothpick, or even a tiny piece of tissue, using the tip of a pin or needle to kind of stuff it in.
It may not be the most technically adept way, but it has worked for me!
JRob, I've had this issue with some of the auto batteries, and not just Titans. I end up plugging one of the air intake holes on the battery (one of the three on the sides) and it does seem to help. I've used a broken-off toothpick, or even a tiny piece of tissue, using the tip of a pin or needle to kind of stuff it in.
It may not be the most technically adept way, but it has worked for me!
Thanx Lisa I remember doing that on a batt aloooong time ago . Will try that soon!
. Will try that soon!
Yeah, the titans for me require more "airspeed" than I prefer to activate the switch. Like Lisa66, I jammed a toothpick into one of the holes and broke it off. Even that wasn't enough, so I plugged another hole, and that's a bit too much. I don't really mind a low-resistance draw, but I don't think I should have to work so hard to get the switch to fire on an auto batt. The colors and texture are cool though.
I guess intuitively it should require more airspeed, unless the size and position of the hole are compensated for with a more sensitive switch
Among my diamonds there is a variation in switch sensitivity from one batt to the next as well. Only becomes an issue when using an airy cart on an insensitive switch
Among my diamonds there is a variation in switch sensitivity from one batt to the next as well. Only becomes an issue when using an airy cart on an insensitive switch
Plarkinjr sir oddly enough addressed the airspeed issue quite a few times. Explained this over on that other place-
The way an auto works is there are 2 air inlet holes on the bottom which draw air up through the battery through the hole in the post, there are 3 extra airholes around the thread collar to increase the airflow. Problem with the sealed auto is the post hole has been moved to the sides. Because of this when the switch gets sticky, it is much more noticeable due to the difference in the air flow from the unsealed counterparts. There's a fix though, works on all but the batts with the wrong hole alignment. Mark sir has been sent one of those batteries to see. That's all I'll say on it until back in md....
The way an auto works is there are 2 air inlet holes on the bottom which draw air up through the battery through the hole in the post, there are 3 extra airholes around the thread collar to increase the airflow. Problem with the sealed auto is the post hole has been moved to the sides. Because of this when the switch gets sticky, it is much more noticeable due to the difference in the air flow from the unsealed counterparts. There's a fix though, works on all but the batts with the wrong hole alignment. Mark sir has been sent one of those batteries to see. That's all I'll say on it until back in md....
Yes, I am intrigued by a solution other than post-raise and hole-alignment. I've done both to two auth VT1003's with little or no improvement (but again, it may simply be a preference thing with me, and not a case of the battery not operating per design specs).
Morandir, I'm sure you have seen this elsewhere, but what you describe as how the auto's work is much like a turbofan jet engine, only in reverse. A jet converts mechanical and chemical energy into air-flow, whereas an auto e-cig batt is converting airflow to mechanical energy to trigger a switch. So look at this graphic (and imagine the arrows pointing to the left):
The red air is "combustion air", which on an e-cig represents the air drawn from the endcap thru the switch. The blue air is "bypass air" which represents the air going thru the holes in the threads. It does nothing to help activate the switch (because it bypasses it), but it does permit more TOTAL air to pass thru the entire unit. In turbofans they call this bypass-ratio. If the "cubic feet per minute" or air passing thru the combustion chamber is equal to that going around it is a 1:1 ratio. If less air goes thru the combustion path, it is said to have a "high bypass ratio".
Presumably VT1003's have a narrower channel for "combustion air" than VT1002's. Or the switches require more force on the 3's than the 2's. Either way, what I have found plugging the thread holes REDUCES the bypass ratio, which means that a greater proportion of the total airflow is directed thru the switch, despite the fact that the overall volume of the total airflow is also reduced.
I have to assume that post-raising and hole-aligning works for some cases, because others have said it does. However, I don't understand the mechanics of how that works, nor have I personally been able to make it work.
Yes, I'm VERY interested to hear about other solutions, or the mechanics involved that make post-raising and hole alignment a solution for some, or both.
Morandir, I'm sure you have seen this elsewhere, but what you describe as how the auto's work is much like a turbofan jet engine, only in reverse. A jet converts mechanical and chemical energy into air-flow, whereas an auto e-cig batt is converting airflow to mechanical energy to trigger a switch. So look at this graphic (and imagine the arrows pointing to the left):
The red air is "combustion air", which on an e-cig represents the air drawn from the endcap thru the switch. The blue air is "bypass air" which represents the air going thru the holes in the threads. It does nothing to help activate the switch (because it bypasses it), but it does permit more TOTAL air to pass thru the entire unit. In turbofans they call this bypass-ratio. If the "cubic feet per minute" or air passing thru the combustion chamber is equal to that going around it is a 1:1 ratio. If less air goes thru the combustion path, it is said to have a "high bypass ratio".
Presumably VT1003's have a narrower channel for "combustion air" than VT1002's. Or the switches require more force on the 3's than the 2's. Either way, what I have found plugging the thread holes REDUCES the bypass ratio, which means that a greater proportion of the total airflow is directed thru the switch, despite the fact that the overall volume of the total airflow is also reduced.
I have to assume that post-raising and hole-aligning works for some cases, because others have said it does. However, I don't understand the mechanics of how that works, nor have I personally been able to make it work.
Yes, I'm VERY interested to hear about other solutions, or the mechanics involved that make post-raising and hole alignment a solution for some, or both.
Mine is airy, too, and I wish I had ordered a manny. Will cover a hole with tape until Mordy comes back with the real fix.
I've been playing around with snipping off the end of a condom, to create a tube, and punching a hole in it. The idea being to slip it over the carto/batt junction, and align the hole in the condom with a notch in the carto. But my method of cutting a diamond shaped hole makes it prone to tear. And I have not figured out if one hole, or more is useful. Just an idea for some of you to try out if you are bored, and let us know whether it can be made to work, and how.
The toothpick idea is a good one, I did that a very long time ago, now for the carto condom idea, this is what I do.
First I snip the bottom off the condom, then slide it over the part where the carto screws on the battery. After that I take the carto and put it on the battery, and look to see where the holes line up (Some times not all the holes will line up) And take a needle and perce one hole, then 2 if need be.
Ah ha! Very good!!
And yes, Lisa, carto condom.
OK, my third (and final) auto VT1003 arrived today. Appears its post was already raised (was flush, and had a nick on it, and was not centered). I gave it a twist of just a couple degrees to align a pair of holes. Still required too much speed to fire the batt. Toothpick in one hole and good to go. regular length cigar color looks very nice though!
Ah ha! Very good!!
And yes, Lisa, carto condom.
OK, my third (and final) auto VT1003 arrived today. Appears its post was already raised (was flush, and had a nick on it, and was not centered). I gave it a twist of just a couple degrees to align a pair of holes. Still required too much speed to fire the batt. Toothpick in one hole and good to go. regular length cigar color looks very nice though!
I agree..... I love mine! Behind that, the sapphire and the red. I like bling, just not pink/lavender, etc. (sorry keyzy!)
I quite like my cigar colour - though DD has never seen a cigar, she thinks it looks like a cinnamon stick!
I'm interested to hear about this fix too. I have a regular auto cigar color that has some issues. Before, you had to have the cart screwed on just exactly right (not all the way) in order to get it to fire. Even then it took a couple of puffs to get it going. Then I did the 'hole realignment trick' and now I have to pull the post up every time and it has a super airy draw.
Katz, do you love the cigar color as much as I love the way you spell 'colour'?
Scoot, here's a simple experiment to see if decreasing bypass ratio will help: Take some scotch tape and wrap it around the the batt/carto junction (leave a tail so you can remove it). Then take a gentle draw. It will be like the proverbial "golfball thru a milkshake straw". But if the LED fires and you get vapor, then you could probably benefit from plugging one of the holes in the threads. Otherwise, it's like trying to suck a golfball thru a 4" dryer vent hose.
Good luck, and let us know.
Scoot, here's a simple experiment to see if decreasing bypass ratio will help: Take some scotch tape and wrap it around the the batt/carto junction (leave a tail so you can remove it). Then take a gentle draw. It will be like the proverbial "golfball thru a milkshake straw". But if the LED fires and you get vapor, then you could probably benefit from plugging one of the holes in the threads. Otherwise, it's like trying to suck a golfball thru a 4" dryer vent hose.
Good luck, and let us know.
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Plarkinjr sir it's not designed like a jet engine. You keep missing how it works, the 3 air intake holes on the threading are not part of the activation, the are there for improved air flow. On the sealed when the switch sticks, you have to do the same as with the unsealed when the switch sticks, increase the airspeed. Difference is you have to increase it more on the "sealed" due to the post have no hole in the center, but the 2 holes on the side. Those extra air holes on the threading have nothing to do with activation, everything to do with the ease of draw. Go buy a gen 2 "sealed" auto with it's smaller holes on the post, smaller and only 2 holes on the threads, and see how bad that draw is. Especially if you get one with a sticky switch (have one I'll send you with that issue if you want). It's set up just like your toothpick/condom fix without the fix. Be prepared to pop a blood vessel using it.
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