How to fix airy draw on Titan?

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jamvector

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Morandir, I think all Plarkin is trying to say is that both sources of air intake on the tube converge as soon as you close your lips around the mouthpiece and apply negative pressure. Since all openings to allow air to enter the tube lead to the single air pathway being inhaled, they are directly correlated in an additive manner, and therefore, a change in pressure can result from alteration of either air input location, which can affect both draw and switch activation. Scientifically he is right, the problem is observation, since we cannot maintain a constant negative pressure at the mouthpiece to measure the effect - humans adjust their draw based upon feedback from the system, and it is difficult to rectify theory with practice. Not trying to dispute your many findings, just trying to provide some outside rational scientific support for what he is trying to say..... I think :)
 
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SMILIN

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Hi Fam,

I apologize for inconsistency's on my new battery's. I made a contract with the top battery manuf. in world. They produce for company's like Apple, Lexus, Toyota. I only get the very best cells. Some of the batteries must have been made too close to CNY's, and because China looses so much staff the prior 30 days, some must have been made to less than MY requirements.

Rest assured, tomorrow, I will instruct my CST's to make sure to get you the best of battery's we have, and to test them beforehand.

I am going back to China in a few weeks, after the last few months of health issues, due to the last 3 years of non stop 20 plus hour days.

I will be sure to get to the bottom, and NEVER let this type of idiotic QC issues happen again. It makes me SICK, and I take it very personally.

Thank you in advance, for your understanding

Vape-On

Steve
 

plarkinjr

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Thanks for the update Smilin! Sorry to hear about health issues.

I hope my explanation also assists with feedback, and that it is recognized there may be more than one issue going on here. Where I work we (too often) fall into a trap during incident-response of attributing all symptoms to one core issue, overlooking other issues happening simultaneously.
 

plarkinjr

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I just discovered another data point which I hope is helpful:

I know using a tank on an auto-batt is not a "best practice", but for yaha's, I tried it on two of my titan autos (the third is charging, and all three are "too-airy"), and have this to say: It triggers much easier with a tank than with coolcarts (either factory filled or home-filled with premium, USA, or another vendor's juice). The tank in question has a 3ohm single coil carto. I have not tried any other combos. But in short: it fires as easily as if I wrap tape around the carto/batt junction, but without the airflow restriction that causes. Great flow without excessive effort! I guess the TITAN Auto's will be relegated to tank-duty only. They ARE "sealed" so I feel much better about that.

Carry on,

[ETA: 500th post!]
 
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Cyrus Vap

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That is interesting! ::confused:::

I've been doing something else lately. I take a thin sliver of tissue and wrap it up super tight. Place it on the battery threads and screw the carto on. You end up with 1-2 holes occluded. Also works if you thread the tissue between the battery post and inner wall of the threads.

Bam, fixed :)

Better than the cut off condom cosmetically. Its invisible!
 

plarkinjr

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True, that seems much more cosmetically appealing. But for those who like the cut-condom method, I discovered another neat trick for that quite by accident: when you cut it, do so at an angle. By doing that, you can fine tune the occlusion by moving the condom up or down so that more or less coverage happens. SUPER fine tuning can be done my turning the condom as well to change how much of a slot is occluded.

The only thing I can figure as to why the tanks are different is that perhaps the flange on the tank changes airflow in some way. maybe it creates more or less of of vortex or venturi that speeds up the airflow thru the switch channel without changing the VOLUME of the bypass-air. Someone with a fluid-dynamics degree and a wind-tunnel or water-flow chamber would be an awesome contributor to this mystery!
 
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StealthyTX

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Since I am not that handy with toothpicks, kleenex, tape, etc, I was forced to use the "buy a different kit" fix :(

If any of you out there that have had luck fixing these, and would like 2 of these batts, PM me. I'd rather give them away than pitch them...more ecofriendly that way too :)
 
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waylonjessi4ever

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I am sticking with my old 808's and diamonds ...i resent having to possibly "fix " anything that expensive and learning how to do it .I have had enough trouble lately with diamonds ....I am sad i cannot turn friends onto anything but the most basic 808 and their juices /cartos .No tanks yet either .Got a replacement for one xl diamond ,another one;s button quit working and none of them seem to last much longer if any then the old 808's .
 

dedi

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FWIW, Nancy, I've had nothing but great performance from my 4 XL VT manuals.

Most of my Diamond manuals are also fine, except a few are becoming intermittently "unresponsive" to the button -- I think because I probably need to clean the buttons.

Eleanor, how do you clean those buttons? I clean the threads, inside of threads and tissue out the center hole........but buttons? help plz and thx :)
 

EleanorR

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Eleanor, how do you clean those buttons? I clean the threads, inside of threads and tissue out the center hole........but buttons? help plz and thx :)

(1) Take clean Q-tip.
(2) Dip Q-tip into rubbing alcohol. (Make sure it's wet, but not dripping wet.)
(3) Run Q-tip all around button, even pushing button down to get "under" edges.
(4) Blow on button to help evaporate alcohol.
(5) Push button -- see if cleaning helped! :D
 
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