That stuff is handy for the average homeowner who doesn't have or doesn't want to fool with a multimeter. Good tool to have.
"Hadn't been connected" = literally clipped off in the receptacle boxes [emoji3] Some I could salvage, others I fished new. The old hot water heater had the ground just sitting there, not connected to the ground stud.
I also had to rework all the incoming plumbing. The water pump, and power for it, had been located in a place that floods every spring. I built a new water service box, housing the pump, pressure tank, sediment and carbon filters, and a UV filter with flow restrictor.
I also had to rework all the incoming plumbing. The water pump, and power for it, had been located in a place that floods every spring. I built a new water service box, housing the pump, pressure tank, sediment and carbon filters, and a UV filter with flow restrictor.
Sorry, I had to smile at this. Reminds me of my oldest. He used to stand in front of the fridge with the door open, just looking inside. He would eventually yell out, "where is the _____?" I would say, "did you look behind the ______?" If it didn't jump out at him, he couldn't find it.
Again, many thanks, this weekend is mat work weekend. If you don't hear from me Monday, I botched the job and Mrs CMD is a free woman.
It is in the genes, my daughter has the same affliction to a much lesser degree. My case is terminal.
I have a grinder. It has an Allen screw that holds the grinding disk onto the shaft. When I bought it, it came with a "wrench" that held the shaft steady while I undid the Allen to replace the disk. I have misplaced the little wrench. I have no tool thin enough to fit between the motor housing and the cutoff disk to hold the shaft still. Any thoughts other than those calling into question my mental capacity?
Maybe cobble something together useful with your stash of little blue screwdrivers?
How much space are we talking here? I know you can buy a thin wrench or spanner wrench that are pretty skinny. There's a name for them and I've always been able to blurt it out with no hesitation but lately names are not readily at my finger tips. Here is a set to give you an idea. You might be able to buy just one for the size you need. I'm assuming that shaft has squared off thingies that a wrench would fit snuggly on?? Or is it round all the way thru?
https://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-Pie...?keywords=tappet+wrench&qid=1571077055&sr=8-9
Go here...
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/p...MIi_qAs9Oc5QIVRtbACh07RwyxEAAYASAAEgIaw_D_BwE
or here..
Tool Parts & Schematics – Power Tool Parts | Tool Parts Direct
And see if they have a Parts List for your Grinder. And if you are Lucky, the Parts list will say what Size the Wrench is.
Or see if you can Download the User PDF Manual for your Grinder.
Then you can Search for a "Thin" or "Flange Wrench". Or if the Price is OK, and they have it, just Buy it from the Site(s) above.
If I'm picturing it correctly, you only need something thin to slide in there had keep the shaft from rotating while tightening the allen screw? And it doesn't need to be really strong or withstand that much pressure?
If all else fails, and you can't find the proper wrench: you could remove the screw, then measure the size of the hex on the shaft. Get a thin flat piece of scrap metal of some sort, and hacksaw out an opening to say, 3/4" or whatever size is called for on the nut. Wouldn't be pretty, but would get the job done. I've done something similar.
But maybe I misunderstand. Give us a pic?
Mine is a Harbor Freight and the sites did not have the brand listed. I know they are designed for throw away but the things still works, I think that I may be able to slip my calipers in the space and measure the shaft. It has only two cut outs so I may be able slip them in there and measure the width. Then I will try cutting my own tool as suggested by Brewdawg.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
REPAIR/REPLACE ELECTRICAL BOX IN WALL
Had an outlet in the kitchen that was flopping around. Most of the time you can use spacers and cinch it back up. But not always. In this case, the female side that holds the outlet mounting screws was cracked all to hell and could not hold a screw. Only fix was to pull the box and put a new one in. Not the most pleasurable job but it's not especially hard.
1) Have to turn the power off to the outlet for safety.
2) Remove the wall plate.
3) Unscrew the outlet from the box, pull away from the box to extend the wires.
4) Disconnect the wires from the outlet paying attention to where the wires go so you can put them back the way you found them.
5) Slip a hacksaw blade (just the blade, not the entire saw) between the stud the box is nailed to and the box itself. There is a nail at the top and bottom of the box. Might have to pry the box away from the stud a little with a flat head screwdriver.
6) Saw the nails off making sure you're not sawing the wires going into the box. Use a glove to hold the hacksaw blade so you don't rip up your hands.
7) Pull the box out allowing the wires to feed out at the same time.
8) Get yourself what is called an, "Old-Work Box" from the hardware store (they're cheap). Feed the wires thru the back of the box.
9) Push the box back in the wall till the tabs bottom out. Secure the box with the two ears (one on top plus one on the bottom).
10) Put everything back together.
Here is a picture of an old-work box. Get the largest one that will fit in the wall so it's easier to scrunch the wires back in it. Mine was 20 cu. in. I got from Home Depot.
https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-B120R...XZ0A7CVXX1R&psc=1&refRID=GGSR1DT4HXZ0A7CVXX1R
Here's a video of some dude sawing the box out of his wall.
Had an outlet in the kitchen that was flopping around. Most of the time you can use spacers and cinch it back up. But not always. In this case, the female side that holds the outlet mounting screws was cracked all to hell and could not hold a screw. Only fix was to pull the box and put a new one in. Not the most pleasurable job but it's not especially hard.
1) Have to turn the power off to the outlet for safety.
2) Remove the wall plate.
3) Unscrew the outlet from the box, pull away from the box to extend the wires.
4) Disconnect the wires from the outlet paying attention to where the wires go so you can put them back the way you found them.
5) Slip a hacksaw blade (just the blade, not the entire saw) between the stud the box is nailed to and the box itself. There is a nail at the top and bottom of the box. Might have to pry the box away from the stud a little with a flat head screwdriver.
6) Saw the nails off making sure you're not sawing the wires going into the box. Use a glove to hold the hacksaw blade so you don't rip up your hands.
7) Pull the box out allowing the wires to feed out at the same time.
8) Get yourself what is called an, "Old-Work Box" from the hardware store (they're cheap). Feed the wires thru the back of the box.
9) Push the box back in the wall till the tabs bottom out. Secure the box with the two ears (one on top plus one on the bottom).
10) Put everything back together.
Here is a picture of an old-work box. Get the largest one that will fit in the wall so it's easier to scrunch the wires back in it. Mine was 20 cu. in. I got from Home Depot.
https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-B120R...XZ0A7CVXX1R&psc=1&refRID=GGSR1DT4HXZ0A7CVXX1R
Here's a video of some dude sawing the box out of his wall.
I would also upgrade the outlet if possible to a 4 outlet or gfi,,,. Or a double with built in usb charge ports.
I figure if the cover got beat up ,, then the outlet is used a lot. &needs upgrading as well
That is a nice option if you want to do a little extra work to enhance the outlet. In my case, it was an outlet that is basically used for the toaster and no more. It's also on a tiled wall and I didn't want to hack that up. The tiled wall contributed to the outlet coming loose in the first place.
NOTICE
I was reminded today about a potential disaster for every home owner. I have a neighbor who was forced out of their home for several days and faced about three weeks of repairs due to a kitchen faucet water hose that burst (hose failure, not a freeze failure). Trashed their lower level floors and insulation in the crawl below. This is a common problem and is always one of the leading causes of home insurance claims.
Solution: DO NOT USE PLASTIC WATER HOSES. PERIOD! Instead, use the steel braided hoses throughout your house. Check all water faucets, toilets, wash machines, icemakers, water dispensers, etc. Then change out your hoses every five years. Not even the steel braided hoses last forever but they are still far better than plastic hoses. This is not the time to be a cheapass,
If you want to spare yourselves of a very real disaster source, then change out those hoses.
I was reminded today about a potential disaster for every home owner. I have a neighbor who was forced out of their home for several days and faced about three weeks of repairs due to a kitchen faucet water hose that burst (hose failure, not a freeze failure). Trashed their lower level floors and insulation in the crawl below. This is a common problem and is always one of the leading causes of home insurance claims.
Solution: DO NOT USE PLASTIC WATER HOSES. PERIOD! Instead, use the steel braided hoses throughout your house. Check all water faucets, toilets, wash machines, icemakers, water dispensers, etc. Then change out your hoses every five years. Not even the steel braided hoses last forever but they are still far better than plastic hoses. This is not the time to be a cheapass,
If you want to spare yourselves of a very real disaster source, then change out those hoses.
Yeah, I read a couple of decades ago that insurance companies said that they pay out more for damage due to leaky icemaker lines than any claims other than natural disasters.
People must be running the lines to the kitchen sink or local bathroom?? I just punch a hole in the floor behind the refrigerator and into the basement and then connect it over the floor drain.
You'd think the insurance company would put out a warning somewhere, somehow.
You'd think the insurance company would put out a warning somewhere, somehow.
I meant that for years, people just bought the cheapest poly tube with compression fittings to attach to the angle stop in the existing box behind the fridge- or even when an older house didn't have an existing supply, to tap into a pipe.
Very easy & convenient, but that plastic tubing gets brittle in only a few years, and will leak. There are better plastics available, but as Bronze said, I avoid any type of plastic if possible. I use a roll of soft copper, in a large coil, so I can pull the fridge out for cleaning/service.
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Something I forgot to mention. If you're going out of town or wont be home for awhile, cut off the water at the main house valve.
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