How to Fix Stuff

[Brewdawg1181]

Good question. Are you saying you want to go directly in the brick??

Yep. It looks like this:

The top outer holes on the mounting bracket are only 4" apart, spaced 9" to the bottom. it comes with 5/16" x 2.5" lag bolts for wood. I'm thinking if I get large sleeve anchors 5/16 or bigger, and at least 3", it should work okay if I put the top ones in the mortar line. But even at that, 45 lbs. would be a lot of stress on a small area.

I've googled like crazy, but it's amazing how little info there is on brick anchors- it's all on concrete or cinder block, it seems. But I did find the super expensive chemical anchors interesting.

And I've thought of using multiple tapcons to scab a thick block of wood up there, spreading the stress, then using the bolts that came with it, but that woudn't be a very pretty installation.

I've reached out to the seller, but QC Supply sells farm & livestock equipment, so I doubt they can tell me anything about it. Highly rated heavy duty fan, but Chinese made of course.

 

[440BB]

Yep. It looks like this:
View attachment 888753
The top outer holes on the mounting bracket are only 4" apart, spaced 9" to the bottom. it comes with 5/16" x 2.5" lag bolts for wood. I'm thinking if I get large sleeve anchors 5/16 or bigger, and at least 3", it should work okay if I put the top ones in the mortar line. But even at that, 45 lbs. would be a lot of stress on a small area.

I've googled like crazy, but it's amazing how little info there is on brick anchors- it's all on concrete or cinder block, it seems. But I did find the super expensive chemical anchors interesting.

And I've thought of using multiple tapcons to scab a thick block of wood up there, spreading the stress, then using the bolts that came with it, but that woudn't be a very pretty installation.

I've reached out to the seller, but QC Supply sells farm & livestock equipment, so I doubt they can tell me anything about it. Highly rated heavy duty fan, but Chinese made of course.

I was thinking of a wood base too, as it also gives you control over the anchor locations and number. Maybe with a bit of finishing, a bevel and some paint, it could look OK.

 

[AstroTurf]

Yep. It looks like this:
View attachment 888753
The top outer holes on the mounting bracket are only 4" apart, spaced 9" to the bottom. it comes with 5/16" x 2.5" lag bolts for wood. I'm thinking if I get large sleeve anchors 5/16 or bigger, and at least 3", it should work okay if I put the top ones in the mortar line. But even at that, 45 lbs. would be a lot of stress on a small area.

I've googled like crazy, but it's amazing how little info there is on brick anchors- it's all on concrete or cinder block, it seems. But I did find the super expensive chemical anchors interesting.

And I've thought of using multiple tapcons to scab a thick block of wood up there, spreading the stress, then using the bolts that came with it, but that woudn't be a very pretty installation.

I've reached out to the seller, but QC Supply sells farm & livestock equipment, so I doubt they can tell me anything about it. Highly rated heavy duty fan, but Chinese made of course.

What I would use...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Brewdawg1181]

What I would use...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's what I keep coming back to- sleeve anchors. Thinking maybe a 4" would ensure that it would expand most at the back of the brick, rather than mostly in the cavity. I'm still thinking I'm maybe missing a solution specific to standard bricks with their cavities, though.

 

[AstroTurf]

Yeah, that's what I keep coming back to- sleeve anchors. Thinking maybe a 4" would ensure that it would expand most at the back of the brick, rather than mostly in the cavity. I'm still thinking I'm maybe missing a solution specific to standard bricks with their cavities, though.

Thats why that shorter length would work best.

About two weeks ago I rehung a 3/4 inch diaphragm pump on a hollow core cinder block wall. I swear I could have stood on it after words. (An I aint light either)

 

[Bronze]

I'd probably fasten a wood block to the mortar lines and mount the fan to the wood. I've drilled and anchored mortar before but not directly to the brick (don't know how well that would work). Mortar can always be repaired if necessary. Repairing/replacing a brick is a bit sketchy. Just finding the same color would be near impossible.

 

[Bronze]

Well, I did it. I ordered those gutter guards that @kas122461 linked us about a year back. I ordered two boxes (96 total feet). I need four but it's killing me to spend the money so I only ordered two. That's a part of it but the other part is I want to make sure they work. The section I'm going to try wraps around the house so I would need two boxes. Plus if I decide to finish the job it wont hurt as bad on round 2. I know, pretty strange logic but two is what I settled on for now. I researched these pretty thoroughly and it seems these guards are as good as it gets for the DIYer. They get pretty solid reviews.

So I will power wash the inside of the gutters to get all of the crud out of them. I got another box of gutter screws to make sure the gutter is secure. Then I'll hit the seams with some rubber spray. They're not leaking but they are 23 years old and I may as well spray the seams while it's easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VTFQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Brewdawg1181]

Well, I did it. I ordered those gutter guards that @kas122461 linked us about a year back. I ordered two boxes (96 total feet). I need four but it's killing me to spend the money so I only ordered two. That's a part of it but the other part is I want to make sure they work. The section I'm going to try wraps around the house so I would need two boxes. Plus if I decide to finish the job it wont hurt as bad on round 2. I know, pretty strange logic but two is what I settled on for now. I researched these pretty thoroughly and it seems these guards are as good as it gets for the DIYer. They get pretty solid reviews.

So I will power wash the inside of the gutters to get all of the crud out of them. I got another box of gutter screws to make sure the gutter is secure. Then I'll hit the seams with some rubber spray. They're not leaking but they are 23 years old and I may as well spray the seams while it's easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VTFQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck with that- it does look like a good design, and I watched part of an installation video. Years ago, I went with a mesh type, and it caused problems in a few areas. But that was an installation issue- they installed them so it lifted up the ends of the shingles, and didn't let them curve downward. I ended up getting backflow under the facia that damaged a hardwood floor, and ended up removing them.

I wish I had a ranch house, because I'm too old to be installing at the heights where I need it in the back yard of a basement lot. I really need them too, because most of the downspouts are buried, and being 15 years old, some are clogging underground. I've been thinking about doing parts of the house, and if yours work out, I may hire a contractor to put that type in in some areas.

 

[kas122461]

Well, I did it. I ordered those gutter guards that @kas122461 linked us about a year back. I ordered two boxes (96 total feet). I need four but it's killing me to spend the money so I only ordered two. That's a part of it but the other part is I want to make sure they work. The section I'm going to try wraps around the house so I would need two boxes. Plus if I decide to finish the job it wont hurt as bad on round 2. I know, pretty strange logic but two is what I settled on for now. I researched these pretty thoroughly and it seems these guards are as good as it gets for the DIYer. They get pretty solid reviews.

So I will power wash the inside of the gutters to get all of the crud out of them. I got another box of gutter screws to make sure the gutter is secure. Then I'll hit the seams with some rubber spray. They're not leaking but they are 23 years old and I may as well spray the seams while it's easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VTFQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to do that project this year also, but have not ordered any yet. For my house I think that 96 feet would do my whole house. I have one run that is around 41 feet, The other side is less, because there is a gable protrusion on that side. The front needs around 40 foot. My plan though is just to have it done before Fall.

KAS

 

[Bronze]

Good luck with that- it does look like a good design, and I watched part of an installation video. Years ago, I went with a mesh type, and it caused problems in a few areas. But that was an installation issue- they installed them so it lifted up the ends of the shingles, and didn't let them curve downward. I ended up getting backflow under the facia that damaged a hardwood floor, and ended up removing them.

I wish I had a ranch house, because I'm too old to be installing at the heights where I need it in the back yard of a basement lot. I really need them too, because most of the downspouts are buried, and being 15 years old, some are clogging underground. I've been thinking about doing parts of the house, and if yours work out, I may hire a contractor to put that type in in some areas.

I have to do that project this year also, but have not ordered any yet. For my house I think that 96 feet would do my whole house. I have one run that is around 41 feet, The other side is less, because there is a gable protrusion on that side. The front needs around 40 foot. My plan though is just to have it done before Fall.

KAS

Yeah, Fall will be the test when all the leaves come down. I live in a forest so my roof sees lots of tree crap. I get hit hard again in the spring with all the oak stamin.

 

[stols001]

Climb a tree today.

From and early and often tree climber who finds cactuses much harder to navigate.

Anna

 

[CMD-Ky]

Those look very similar to the guards I have. I did not install them myself, ladders, heights and I do not gel. Mine work quite well and have been up for nine years and, like you, I have a lot of leaves.

Well, I did it. I ordered those gutter guards that @kas122461 linked us about a year back. I ordered two boxes (96 total feet). I need four but it's killing me to spend the money so I only ordered two. That's a part of it but the other part is I want to make sure they work. The section I'm going to try wraps around the house so I would need two boxes. Plus if I decide to finish the job it wont hurt as bad on round 2. I know, pretty strange logic but two is what I settled on for now. I researched these pretty thoroughly and it seems these guards are as good as it gets for the DIYer. They get pretty solid reviews.

So I will power wash the inside of the gutters to get all of the crud out of them. I got another box of gutter screws to make sure the gutter is secure. Then I'll hit the seams with some rubber spray. They're not leaking but they are 23 years old and I may as well spray the seams while it's easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4VTFQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[CMD-Ky]

For those interested, my hanging barn door is up. The hanging track and the top of the door are both bubble level. Some of the painting is done, the track still needs to pickled and painted, wood needs stain. Construction and installation are complete but for guide rollers at the bottom of the door. I am very pleased with the fit and finish. Picture will be forthcoming when the paint and wood stain is finished and my daughter comes down with her fancy iPhone (number unknown by me)

 

[Bronze]

For those interested, my hanging barn door is up. The hanging track and the top of the door are both bubble level. Some of the painting is done, the track still needs to pickled and painted, wood needs stain. Construction and installation are complete but for guide rollers at the bottom of the door. I am very pleased with the fit and finish. Picture will be forthcoming when the paint and wood stain is finished and my daughter comes down with her fancy iPhone (number unknown by me)

Congrats CMD. I’m sure the Mrs will approve.

 

[Bronze]

Got the gutters cleaned and secured. Decided to use the hose instead of the power washer. The power washer is a bit much for gutters. Brushed the inside out with soap n water. They are .... n span. Replaced three gutter nails with screw types. Tomorrow I will seal the seams with a can of that flex seal stuff. Can’t stand Phil Swift but if his stuff works so be it. Guards scheduled to be here Monday.

 

[kas122461]

Got the gutters cleaned and secured. Decided to use the hose instead of the power washer. The power washer is a bit much for gutters. Brushed the inside out with soap n water. They are .... n span. Replaced three gutter nails with screw types. Tomorrow I will seal the seams with a can of that flex seal stuff. Can’t stand Phil Swift but if his stuff works so be it. Guards scheduled to be here Monday.

I have used the Flex seal stuff at work, and it does work. If there are large cracks it might take a few applications. The stuff is a lot easier to use than a caulking gun, and less messy, it can be a bit runny out of the can. If it is a vertical seam I prefer caulking though.

KAS

 

[Brewdawg1181]

For those interested, my hanging barn door is up. The hanging track and the top of the door are both bubble level. Some of the painting is done, the track still needs to pickled and painted, wood needs stain. Construction and installation are complete but for guide rollers at the bottom of the door. I am very pleased with the fit and finish. Picture will be forthcoming when the paint and wood stain is finished and my daughter comes down with her fancy iPhone (number unknown by me)

Look forward to the pics.

 

[Bronze]

Got the corner seams sealed with that flex seal. Works pretty good. I think one application will do the trick. I’ll inspect them before putting on the guards and can add another coat if it needs it. Just waiting for the guards to be delivered now. Early next week they say.

 

[hittman]

Someone suggested that I post a question here. I have an old Lennox Elite furnace and AC. The air that is blowing out is cold but not blowing hard enough out of the vents. I replaced a failed capacitor and motor outside last year and have cleaned the outside unit. From what I've been able to find out online, the indoor evaporator coil is probably dirty. I pulled the humidifier off the side of the duct work that I installed myself several years ago. I can see the top of the evaporator but there is no way to access the bottom side for cleaning. My wife has been complaining about the AC having to run so much since it's not blowing enough air out. I finally gave in and let her call a tech that's coming Tuesday. If there is no access panel then how does one clean the evaporator?

 

[Bronze]

Someone suggested that I post a question here. I have an old Lennox Elite furnace and AC. The air that is blowing out is cold but not blowing hard enough out of the vents. I replaced a failed capacitor and motor outside last year and have cleaned the outside unit. From what I've been able to find out online, the indoor evaporator coil is probably dirty. I pulled the humidifier off the side of the duct work that I installed myself several years ago. I can see the top of the evaporator but there is no way to access the bottom side for cleaning. My wife has been complaining about the AC having to run so much since it's not blowing enough air out. I finally gave in and let her call a tech that's coming Tuesday. If there is no access panel then how does one clean the evaporator?

Have you tried accessing from the bottom?