How to Fix Stuff

[hittman]

Have you tried accessing from the bottom?

There's no access from underneath. The burner assy is in the way with the induction motor. I even took the screws loose around the plate where the lines go into the evaporator and couldn't see anything. I watched a video online of a hvac guy installing an access panel. I wonder if that's what the tech will do when he comes. My guess is that he's going to try selling us a new unit which isn't going to happen. If he can't help us then I'll dig back in myself. I just don't know if I cut into the back side of the duct work if I'll be able to access it then. None of the pictures I've found show much.

 

[Bronze]

There's no access from underneath. The burner assy is in the way with the induction motor. I even took the screws loose around the plate where the lines go into the evaporator and couldn't see anything. I watched a video online of a hvac guy installing an access panel. I wonder if that's what the tech will do when he comes. My guess is that he's going to try selling us a new unit which isn't going to happen. If he can't help us then I'll dig back in myself. I just don't know if I cut into the back side of the duct work if I'll be able to access it then. None of the pictures I've found show much.

You're right. The tech will probably show up with his sales guy who will make his pitch. He'll tell you the lines have cholesterol in them and there's no fixing it. Refrigerant has oils in them and it clogs the coils, blah, blah, blah.

Let us know what you find after the tech looks at it. This could be very useful information for others.

 

[hittman]

I just don't understand why there wasn't an access panel installed when it was new. I didn't know much of anything about AC and furnaces until we bought this house new and stuff started to age. I've learned quite a bit about it since. The hvac company wanted 600 to replace the motor and capacitor and I did it myself for $85.

 

[Bronze]

I just don't understand why there wasn't an access panel installed when it was new. I didn't know much of anything about AC and furnaces until we bought this house new and stuff started to age. I've learned quite a bit about it since. The hvac company wanted 600 to replace the motor and capacitor and I did it myself for $85.

I replaced the blower motor about five years ago for a fraction of what these techs fetch. Capacitor too. Ignitor, flame sensor, etc. only thing I paid the tech for was a heat exchanger cuz I was in a pinch. And I got soaked. Knew I would.

 

[hittman]

I've replaced the flame sensor also.

 

[Bronze]

Kinda good to replace the sensor n ignitor (and capacitor for that matter) at the same time. They’re low expense items and may as well replace it all while it’s tore apart. When one goes out the others aren’t far behind.

 

[Brewdawg1181]

Is the airflow reduced at all the supply vents to the rooms? And you're sure that it's reduced airflow and not the temp? You shoul be getting about a 20 degree differential from room/return air to what's coming out the other side of the coil. You can punch in the probe of a pocket thermometer thru the plenum- the box section of ductwork just above the coil.

It's not impossible, but unusual for a coil to get blocked enough to really notice reduced flow. But that depends on how regularly you change filters.

 

[Brewdawg1181]

Oh, and depending on how old it is, you probably can't replace just the inside unit. both inside and outside would have to be replaced to accommodate the newer r22 replacement. So unless it's leaking, you might be better off having him just rebuild the plenum assembly around the coil and cleaning it. If you think there's enough life left in it to justify the cost of that.

 

[hittman]

I’m hoping to not replace it until my youngest is finished with college in three years. I had a tech check the Freon level last year and he said it was good. I try to change my filter once a month. The evaporator has never been cleaned in 20 years. I asked the tech if I should start thinking about replacing it and he said no and that the old units were better built than the new ones. I was a bit surprised since he was a fairly young guy. My wife is positive that the force of the air coming from the vents is reduced. I honestly never really paid attention as long as the house was cooling.

 

[kas122461]

...

 

[hittman]

Sorry to sound stupid but by register do you mean a vent?

 

[hittman]

Is there a section of duct work above the coil? If there is you could cut a hole that you could put a register in which would give you access for cleaning it, then the register could be closed later.

KAS

I need to get to the bottom to clean it. If I pull the humidifier off then I can see the top.

 

[Bronze]

Oh, and depending on how old it is, you probably can't replace just the inside unit. both inside and outside would have to be replaced to accommodate the newer r22 replacement. So unless it's leaking, you might be better off having him just rebuild the plenum assembly around the coil and cleaning it. If you think there's enough life left in it to justify the cost of that.

The large majority of the time you replace the evaporator and comp unit at the same time. For reason you give plus even in older equip they weren’t compatible.

 

[kas122461]

...

 

[hittman]

Thanks so much for all the advice. I’ll update here after the guy comes Tuesday.

 

[Brewdawg1181]

You can't access the bottom because it has an integral pan at the bottom that catches the dripping condensate from the coil.. like a drip pan. It is literally welded to the coil ...'y. It has a hole in the bottom, usually a corner, so the water that is accumulated drips into the pan,runs thru pipes/tubes to outside your house. Cleaning usually can only be done from the top...some are more accessible than others. But again, I'd be surprised if a dirty coil is the issue. Sounds, at least, like you've got a tech not out to sell you a new system.

Edit: Good lord, abbreviation for assembly is deemed cursing by the adminbot!

 

[Brewdawg1181]

The large majority of the time you replace the evaporator and comp unit at the same time. For reason you give plus even in older equip they weren’t compatible.

That's true. Even after freon (r-22) was replaced, for years you could replace one or the other units, if you replaced valves and orfices, to make them compatible, but would lose efficiency...the different refrigerants work best at different pressures. But the newer units wont even work on the older ones. And you have to even replace the line sets (copper pipes) that connect them. And that part can be expensive because they run thru walls and floors across your house.

Edit- okay I realized after posting that my previous post wasn't clear. Of course, it has to be open on the bottom for air to rise thru it. So usually, it's a channel of a drip pan around the perimeter. But the way some systems are constructed on site, they dont give you access to the bottom without removing tape, mastic, fiberboard, etc. Anyway, I'd probably pay $1k or more for a "patch" to avoid a $5k or likely bigger bill for a new system, if I didn't have a leak.

 

[Bronze]

Received my guards today (at 1PM). Put up 16 feet and quit. Sun was directly above my head beating down on the roof that I was next to. Add 125% humidity and I was getting barbecued alive. I’m saving this project for the 8AM - noon time block. Too old for the heat n humidity.

 

[hittman]

What are the guards for? Tomorrow is the big day. The hvac guy is coming tomorrow. Time to get out the checkbook and bend over.

 

[Bronze]

What are the guards for? Tomorrow is the big day. The hvac guy is coming tomorrow. Time to get out the checkbook and bend over.

Gutter guards. A project in the making for many months. Finally happening.

Hopefully the hvac guy doesn’t have any sand with him.