How to Fix Stuff

hittman

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  • Jul 13, 2009
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    Somewhere between here and there
    It turns out that the original quote was way overpriced even more than I thought. I called an hvac company that has been a long time customer of ours at work and got a quote. We can get a new ac and furnace for about the same price as the other place quoted for just the ac.
     

    AstroTurf

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    Happy to be... Not Smoking!!!
    It turns out that the original quote was way overpriced even more than I thought. I called an hvac company that has been a long time customer of ours at work and got a quote. We can get a new ac and furnace for about the same price as the other place quoted for just the ac.
    I love a second opinion...
     

    Bronze

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    It turns out that the original quote was way overpriced even more than I thought. I called an hvac company that has been a long time customer of ours at work and got a quote. We can get a new ac and furnace for about the same price as the other place quoted for just the ac.
    I'm with Jim. Second (and even third) opinions are nice.

    I'll say it again. Contractor's quotes are based as much on how busy they are than any other factor. If they're busy, they quote high. If they're not busy, they'll quote low.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    I love a second opinion...

    Just think, if Guy I had quoted a fair price where no one made a killing and nobody was killed, there would have been two happy people. As for Guy II, Hittman is left with a bad taste for Guy I, no recommendations from him, no repeat business and Guy II, his is what we all look for, an honest man who may have a long term customer.
    I don't know, the mind of a business man has been a mystery to me for a long time.
     

    stols001

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    COVID 19 was the ONLY reason we were able to get the house rebuilt. Everything was shut but contractors were ESSENTIAL. No one was remodeling though. So we got this really AWESOME guy who is doing a phenomenal job for a pittance. He usually did not work with insurance companies (which is what you want because it is a VILE Ponzi scheme insurance and contractors.) He only did it because the husband was able to talk him into it using his competence. Otherwise it would NOT have been possible.

    You should have SEEN some of the quotes, one guy gave us a drawing with a 200 foot room with NO ENTRYWAY. My husband ah, questioned that "design decision:lol::lol:" and asked if the guy only wanted us to sell it to people ready to murder a relative. The guy was like, "Eh, stuff happens." LOL my husband was like, "Not in my world it doesn't. I think I can safely say please do not resubmit that godawful scrawl you call a drawing you are not hired."

    IT is SO LIKE that with Contractors in Tucson .

    But our guy is the bomb. I GENUINELY did not think it could be rebuilt but it is going well.

    Anna
     

    Bronze

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    Raptor Gutter Guards - Initial Update

    So got a little rain. There's a small amount of tree crud on the guards. They worked fine. I'm more interested in longer term results. I know these will need cleaning periodically. Once a year, maybe twice. That's fine with me as long as I know they are keeping the gutters from clogging and not working. What irritates me about gutters is I clean them 8-10 times a year and they're still clogged half the time. So even if I have to clean them a couple times a year as long as they keep allowing my gutters to work then I will be very happy.
     

    stols001

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    itsaliens.jpg.CROP.original-original.jpg

    Anna
     
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    Bronze

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    Wow, that's a lot of gutter work.
    What is above them that's clogging them so bad?
    Well, I live in the woods so I’m surrounded by trees on all sides of the house. Almost all hardwoods. And trees are messy all year round. Crap is always falling out of trees. They are hell on gutters.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    Well, I live in the woods so I’m surrounded by trees on all sides of the house. Almost all hardwoods. And trees are messy all year round. Crap is always falling out of trees. They are hell on gutters.

    Likewise, I have not regretted my purchase. I'll bet that you don't either.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    BK posted this in another thread. I thought it was too good to pass by without passing it on.

    @Bunnykiller I hope that you don't mind. It is good.

    been reworking the mill head and laser head for the 3D printer... again ;) had to drill and tap a few holes in a 3/8" thick aluminum plate for 8-32 screw/"bolt"... Aluminum is one of the more dificult metals to drill and tap being that its soft and "gummy" ( copper is another)... anyway, I ran out of WD 40 ( which is use to lubricate the aluminum for the tapping process)... didnt want to go to Walmart for WD40 so Im looking around to see what I can use as a substitute... and I saw some copper based Never Seize sitting on the shelf of my reloading station... and I said to myself... " Self, whatchathink about copper nerever sieze as a lubricant?? Self sat there a moment and finally said "dont know, lets find out"... So I grabbed the Copper based Never Seize and dabbed the tip of the tap into it an proceeded to tap the hole... it started rather easily, it began to cut into the plate and I and Self began to wonder when its going to start getting "grabby"... it never did, it just kept on tapping the hole out, no back tracking no tightning of the threads on the cuttings. Self just kept on going at it, I began to become worried that Self was going to snap the tap off in the hole like I did earlier this week... anyway Self did a wonderful job now I can take the credit for it... if it messed up all I could do is blame my Self... ;)
    but seriously... copper Never Seize has got to be the best tapping lubricant I have ever come across... all these years of tapping various metals and never tried the copper never sieze...normally tapping holes is a tedious, perilious, and frustrating job... and theres alot of "feel" involved in tapping and all it takes is that 30 degrees of motion and the tap can lock up tighter than a frogbutt... and when it locks up in both directions, you know its time to look for the trash can...
    dont know if I mentioned this before or not but here it goes ... they finally designed taps to be self centering and to start straight and true... taps were designed with a general shape like a rocket nose cone, the new taps have something more like a cylinder to fit the hole and hold it straight... very nice improvement...

    heres a pic of the old style of tap
    oldtap-jpg.890429


    heres a pic of the new style, notice the tip...

    newtap-jpg.890431



    notice that there is no taper at the tip but more of a straight cut to it...

    this tap with some copper never sieze and tapping 3/8" thick Al plate is eazy...
     

    markfm

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    Been spending a fair amount of time since Friday working on a really-don't-want-to-learn-this item. A 4" sewer pipe in our leach field bit the dust. This is solid thinwall, not the perforated type.

    Best I can tell, the original fault occurred a while back, when it seemed we had a small depression/sinkhole pop up. It became obvious that the ground was damp there, and things were a bit smelly - clearly something not right.

    After a .... load of digging and tracing back, it looks like years ago there was a fail in an original 40 yo pipe, replaced with a newer piece running diagonally over a stripped down distribution box; the stripped box had the base pan and cap cover, while the part with the connection fittings was removed. New pipe ran over the top of the cover. Old pipes that used to go into the box had been cleanly cut, just at the boundary of the box.

    The box innards weren't filled, creating a 6-1/2" gap below the cover (to the bottom of the pan). The cover failed, ground caved downward. Pipe on top of the cover was fragmented into tiny shards, impulse force downwards, though the fail started with the pipe trying to "bend" around the lip of the tub. Pipe at the lip flexed upwards, and the part outside the box had an equal and opposite reaction pushing downwards. The pipe is not built for that kind of shock, pancaked (rip open along top center, splaying to the sides).

    The fail appears to all be on the inlet side. The outlet had another new piece of pipe in parallel with one of the old, cut, pipes, with a 90 degree elbow to the new piece crossing the cap. The elbow hadn't been glued, could swivel freely. Both hub connections on the elbow had cracks, but the outgoing pipe appears to be fine (no deformation or cracks).

    I think I've traced the ripped inlet pipe beyond the fault, to where it's pretty clean again. Super tight to work in, right next to a chain link fence. With any luck tomorrow I'll carefully clear a bit more soil from around it, be able to hacksaw a clean joint and attach a new piece of thinwall.

    For want of whoever did the original work bothering to fill the empty box with gravel, or even soil, decades later I get to fix the mess [emoji3]

    (On the plus side, the weather's been cool enough the last few days during the bulk of the digging. I'm getting too old to want to do this much digging and playing with leach field stuff when it's hot and humid [emoji16])
     
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    stols001

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    OH MY GOD the above post contained the words ON THE PLUS SIDE!!!!!!!!!

    @markfm I salute you and like, holy crap indeed, you sir are a bigger man than me, and furthermore, I'm not even a man and you are bigger than me which might make you the infinitely big man.

    Now if only you were in the sky, not digging around in sewage, I could ask you the celestial meaning to all my deepest religious questions.

    But ALAS: see points in the earlier parts of this post.

    I am so, so very sorry for you.

    Anna
     

    hittman

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  • Jul 13, 2009
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    Somewhere between here and there
    That sounds like a lot of work. I’ve heard several people mention digging out pipes like that. I hate digging. We had 7 yards of dirt hauled in last year that I moved with a shovel and wheelbarrow to build back up around the foundation and some low spots in the yard. I hope to never see another pile of dirt like that. I was exhausted after the first day and had to go back and finish the second day.
     

    Bronze

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    Been spending a fair amount of time since Friday working on a really-don't-want-to-learn-this item. A 4" sewer pipe in our leach field bit the dust. This is solid thinwall, not the perforated type.

    Best I can tell, the original fault occurred a while back, when it seemed we had a small depression/sinkhole pop up. It became obvious that the ground was damp there, and things were a bit smelly - clearly something not right.

    After a .... load of digging and tracing back, it looks like years ago there was a fail in an original 40 yo pipe, replaced with a newer piece running diagonally over a stripped down distribution box; the stripped box had the base pan and cap cover, while the part with the connection fittings was removed. New pipe ran over the top of the cover. Old pipes that used to go into the box had been cleanly cut, just at the boundary of the box.

    The box innards weren't filled, creating a 6-1/2" gap below the cover (to the bottom of the pan). The cover failed, ground caved downward. Pipe on top of the cover was fragmented into tiny shards, impulse force downwards, though the fail started with the pipe trying to "bend" around the lip of the tub. Pipe at the lip flexed upwards, and the part outside the box had an equal and opposite reaction pushing downwards. The pipe is not built for that kind of shock, pancaked (rip open along top center, splaying to the sides).

    The fail appears to all be on the inlet side. The outlet had another new piece of pipe in parallel with one of the old, cut, pipes, with a 90 degree elbow to the new piece crossing the cap. The elbow hadn't been glued, could swivel freely. Both hub connections on the elbow had cracks, but the outgoing pipe appears to be fine (no deformation or cracks).

    I think I've traced the ripped inlet pipe beyond the fault, to where it's pretty clean again. Super tight to work in, right next to a chain link fence. With any luck tomorrow I'll carefully clear a bit more soil from around it, be able to hacksaw a clean joint and attach a new piece of thinwall.

    For want of whoever did the original work bothering to fill the empty box with gravel, or even soil, decades later I get to fix the mess [emoji3]

    (On the plus side, the weather's been cool enough the last few days during the bulk of the digging. I'm getting too old to want to do this much digging and playing with leach field stuff when it's hot and humid [emoji16])
    That's a lot of work. My distribution box caved in not long ago. It was by chance I discovered it. I bought a large Echo backpack blower and I was testing it out when I got it. Found a pile of leaves out back and when I blew them away I saw the breach in the ground. I ended up hiring someone because there was no way I was gonna dig it out with all the rock and roots that were in the area. One of the smarter decisions I made. Guy came with his backhoe and made short work of it. Had to be careful not to disturb the ground directly underneath the D-Box so the new box would not "settle".

    Wondering if you're working near that box if you shouldn't replace it?? Not certain I'm understanding your system.
     

    markfm

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    This is downstream from the main distribution box.

    The box that caved literally only had two, solid, pipes connecting to it. These pipes are just in the soil, not in a gravel bed. They're the feeder pieces before the perforated pipe.

    Fenced back yard, 4' wide gates, bad access for machinery.

    Normally I get a good workout every day with a rowing machine - this is my replacement exercise [emoji3]
     

    markfm

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    What it looks like.

    Far left is the good incoming pipe (doesn't look damaged), what I need to excavate around to cut and attach new pipe.

    Right of that is where the split and crush damage is.

    Right of that is a little of the incoming pipe that hadn't been damaged (though it's skewed upwards).

    Right of that is a temporary brand new piece that I put in, until I could finish tracing back to the main damage.

    White stone is some fill I've added to the old pan. Need to add some more.

    The original, cleanly cut, pipes that ran into that old box are visible at the edges of the white rock.



    21877ffe799dec16fc632bc583b293fb.jpg
     

    Bronze

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    What it looks like.

    Far left is the good incoming pipe (doesn't look damaged), what I need to excavate around to cut and attach new pipe.

    Right of that is where the split and crush damage is.

    Right of that is a little of the incoming pipe that hadn't been damaged (though it's skewed upwards).

    Right of that is a temporary brand new piece that I put in, until I could finish tracing back to the main damage.

    White stone is some fill I've added to the old pan. Need to add some more.

    The original, cleanly cut, pipes that ran into that old box are visible at the edges of the white rock.



    21877ffe799dec16fc632bc583b293fb.jpg
    Your ground is more shovel-friendly than mine. :)
     

    markfm

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    Progress!

    When enough has been cleared, the crushed and cracked part is obvious.
    ebc9d0d326b659780da43c5f0246e37b.jpg


    Clean cut with a hacksaw behind the bad section (tape served as a guide). On the right you can see how much the bad piece was broken.
    da73dfb0f686cf9789388851d5ada540.jpg

    Excavated under the end, cleaned it, test fit a coupler that's on one end of the HDPE triwall. Even though the existing pipe is a bit out of true (slightly oval), the coupler has plenty of give, goes on cleanly. As this is within 1' of the fence edge I'm not worried about weight on that piece, though I may put blocks on each side for extra protection,
    05f31465cd4ee5f634c24fbbab554aa8.jpg


    Time for a run to home depot - 10' triwall and thin wall 45 and 90 degree elbows.
     
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