I´m kind a newbie in genesis attys, I have a little more than 2 months of experience with them. Right now I´m in a point that I can wrap a coil and get rid off the hot spots in no more than 5 minutes most of the times, but I have no clue on how to index (I believe that this how it´s called) so the wick is in line with the button of my apv. So someone could please tell how this is done? Thank you all.
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It depends if you can or not, on the aga you can't unless you leave it loose on the device, not sure of the dids but I know you can with the zatty.
Some people like doing this, but if the wick is well....wicking...it shouldn't matter if it's in line with the button. Just play around with different wick positions (around the coils, one side overlaping, etc) and you should find the sweet spot.
Depending on how I orient the center post in my AGA-T v1 it can line up with my 'Vari button.
Doesn't seem to the same on the AGA-T2.
I think its pretty much random draw with the Chinese rba.
Doesn't seem to the same on the AGA-T2.
I think its pretty much random draw with the Chinese rba.
only device off the top of my head that you can index the apv to match the atty is a provari. it is easy to do check youtube there are videos on how to pop the top cap off(it is press fit on)
That seems like overkill? I think it'll void your warranty immediately too, though I dunno if they have some form of indication.
I like my wick lined with the button for when The mod is horizontal for a puff the wick is covered (I use a short SS wick)in juice. Maybe that is what the op wants? Don't think he asked if it mattered.
try an o ring almost the same size as the top cap of the mod put it between the mod and the atty and squish it. some people take the atty centerpin out and file down the main screw.
Can do that anyways though. Just have to note where the button sits when the wick is on the bottom. My 'Vari button ends up on the right side so I just make sure to orient that way then puff.
Thank you all for your replies. I forgot to mention that I have only several mini did clones (thats the only rba that I could find here in Mexico)
Vanillagurilla, thanks, that´s what I did at first, but didn´t really like leaving them loose.
blackhelix, thanks, my wicks are working just right, but I have to tilt my device when it´s almost finished, that´s the reason for indexing.
ninfreak, thanks, but that seems I little too much for me or my provari (here in Mexico are twice the price, I paid USD $245.00 for the tube alone).
budynbuick, thanks, you got it right, I asked because it matter to me.
Thompson, thanks a lot, you got me thinking, maybe if I remove all the nuts on the positive center post, then push it a little bit just to enough to protude a little bit from de 510 connector, then thread on my device, align the hole to the button and the tight the first nut of the center post might work. I´ll give it a go and then tell you.
Cheers to all of you.
Vanillagurilla, thanks, that´s what I did at first, but didn´t really like leaving them loose.
blackhelix, thanks, my wicks are working just right, but I have to tilt my device when it´s almost finished, that´s the reason for indexing.
ninfreak, thanks, but that seems I little too much for me or my provari (here in Mexico are twice the price, I paid USD $245.00 for the tube alone).
budynbuick, thanks, you got it right, I asked because it matter to me.
Thompson, thanks a lot, you got me thinking, maybe if I remove all the nuts on the positive center post, then push it a little bit just to enough to protude a little bit from de 510 connector, then thread on my device, align the hole to the button and the tight the first nut of the center post might work. I´ll give it a go and then tell you.
Cheers to all of you.
My AGA-T2 went 30 degrees beyond button lineup and there is little room to insert anything in between the base of the RBA and the top of the mod. I drilled and snipped out a 30 ga open-ended steel washer fitted to the 510 connection on my RBA. Different for each mod/RBA connection ... always a custom job.
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Nope didn,t work.
Thrasher and Hello World, Thank you, I´m gonna try some of your ideas.
Thank you all
Thrasher and Hello World, Thank you, I´m gonna try some of your ideas.
Thank you all
When I tried a different glass tank my aga-t2's wick hole ended up 180 degrees opposite the button and it was right in line with button when using original tank. Perhaps try a replacement tank or sand down current tank until it lines up where you like it?
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I should add, tank #1 leaked inexplicably. I'm not entirely sure but sanding down your tank might lead to the same mystery leak I was having.
Thanks for the tip! I just did this, I would not call it easy though. Popping the top cap off the Provari makes you hold your breath a little and finding the right tools for the job was a bit of a challenge as well. Now my ZAP is perfectly aligned though and that is great. This is the way it should have come from the factory. I can now pick it up and know exactly where the wick is because of the position of the button. Here is the video I used to find out how (only one I did find actually):
Provari Disassembly - YouTube
Not for the fainthearted and those worried about warranty if something goes wrong . . .
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Wow..I never even thought about all this. I have a Super-T P+ bottom button mechanical. I always just look for the air hole...
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