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Petar.... Thank you for answering my last question. Your wick is very straw like...with a large hole. You only use 10mm of mesh to make it. Would it work with a more solid wick with a very small hole and maybe use 40mm of mesh? The reason I am asking is that I find that when you make a straw like wicks then you have to tilt the device in an exaggerated way (many call it the genesis tilt) for it to vape properly. With solid wicks you don't have to do that.
@EDO - i understand your concern. but, the tutorial i'm presenting to you, is the basic principle of the method. you can do what ever you prefer, but just stick to the main principle, which is: make the loops even. and make the mesh even. than, make it fit not so tight, but not so lossy. also, i usually make my wicking from mash which is, before rolling, in shape of capital letter "L". like this: the mesh is 30mm long, upper part (20mm) is 10mm wide, and the bottom (10mm) is 15-20mm wide. so when i roll it, the bottom part will be tighter, so it will prevent e-liquid to just seep/stream back into the tank. and yes, you can make it tighter like, for example, this guy did: The Petar K Method - YouTube
so, the most important thing is to follow and stick to the main principles of the method, so you can adapt it to any wire and mesh diameter, genisis type PV, and to your personal preferences.
@Racehorse - thnx
so, the most important thing is to follow and stick to the main principles of the method, so you can adapt it to any wire and mesh diameter, genisis type PV, and to your personal preferences.
@Racehorse - thnx
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Remember to fire the coil to season it on a lower voltage device or setting first, insert the wick so it is snug but can be moved up and down fairly easily, and then fire it while lightly shifting the coils until you get an even glow and all the coils light up evenly. Then add liquid and let it soak the wick, then shift to a higher voltage to taste. There have been a few times where I didn't need to shift the coils at all.
I used to prep my wicks for like a half hour with torch annealing and VG base liquid to build up the carbon when it apparently was being counter productive and affecting the wicking capability. Now I just torch an unrolled mesh to clean it, roll it, size it, torch it one more time, and done.
I used to prep my wicks for like a half hour with torch annealing and VG base liquid to build up the carbon when it apparently was being counter productive and affecting the wicking capability. Now I just torch an unrolled mesh to clean it, roll it, size it, torch it one more time, and done.
I am getting a scorched taste from mine now. I sat on my vmax and I may ,burnt the wick... Any fixes?
Petar K,
this method is listed all over the forum and I know many use this method.
It might be a nice addition to add a way to adapt this method to devices that do not have the positive and negative posts in line like on your device.
Most have one post taller than the other.
thanks!
this method is listed all over the forum and I know many use this method.
It might be a nice addition to add a way to adapt this method to devices that do not have the positive and negative posts in line like on your device.
Most have one post taller than the other.
thanks!
But that is what makes this Petar K process so cool. Tightly wind the coils around the drill bit, affix the negative leg to the flush screw, then pull upward on the top leg to affix to the positive post, and the coils space out quite evenly. I normally use a 6/5 wrap of 32g Kanthal on my genesis style tanks which equates to about 2.2-2.5 ohms depending on the width of the wick hole and drill bit, and which type of tank I'm using. It's pretty spot on most times. I have been experimenting with some thicker gauge wire lately, but haven't been as consistent with it as far as the ease of finished product, probably because of the greater stiffness. Takes a bit more shifting of the coils to get it to fire evenly.
@mogium - it could be due to many reasons. maybe you could send me some photos of the set up, so i can inspect it and find the problem.
@the ob - exactly, this thread should be a "collection" of the method and various adaptations. but, since i don't have any other geni type mod except the vaper and one ooSTURMoo mod, i would like to help to those (with various geni type mods) who are willing to help others use this method.
@TBinAZ - yes, but you will also have to use a toot pick or a needle, after affixing, to make more even spacings between the loops.
@the ob - exactly, this thread should be a "collection" of the method and various adaptations. but, since i don't have any other geni type mod except the vaper and one ooSTURMoo mod, i would like to help to those (with various geni type mods) who are willing to help others use this method.
@TBinAZ - yes, but you will also have to use a toot pick or a needle, after affixing, to make more even spacings between the loops.
@TBinAZ...thanks for your input...I did have to adjust the top coil a little before it worked perfectly.
@Petar Thanks for your help....I can't belive how good it turned out. I did everything like your video....everything works great. The vapor is warmer than other builds I have done and even the straw like wick works great. I tried to just lightly torch the mesh but even though I didn't mean to, I ended up oxidizing it....it glows red so fast when the wick is straw like. I used 32 kanthal to make the coil.
There are two complaints I have...the straw like wick makes you juice darker and darker....I think the juice is boiling and coming back into the tank. I am going to plug the bottom of the wick with tightly wound unoxidized SS mesh and see if that help....now I understand why you use an "L" shaped mesh. The second complaint is that I was hoping that my coils would be more stable and having to adjust the coils would be minimized with your method. Eventhough the coils looked great last night, this morning I had to adjust the coils before starting to vape. DO you adjust the coils daily or was my set up not up to par? Any advice would be appreciated.
If you can give us hints how you maintain your coils and mesh and how you clean them....it would be much appreciated.
Thanks again.
@Petar Thanks for your help....I can't belive how good it turned out. I did everything like your video....everything works great. The vapor is warmer than other builds I have done and even the straw like wick works great. I tried to just lightly torch the mesh but even though I didn't mean to, I ended up oxidizing it....it glows red so fast when the wick is straw like. I used 32 kanthal to make the coil.
There are two complaints I have...the straw like wick makes you juice darker and darker....I think the juice is boiling and coming back into the tank. I am going to plug the bottom of the wick with tightly wound unoxidized SS mesh and see if that help....now I understand why you use an "L" shaped mesh. The second complaint is that I was hoping that my coils would be more stable and having to adjust the coils would be minimized with your method. Eventhough the coils looked great last night, this morning I had to adjust the coils before starting to vape. DO you adjust the coils daily or was my set up not up to par? Any advice would be appreciated.
If you can give us hints how you maintain your coils and mesh and how you clean them....it would be much appreciated.
Thanks again.
yes, that's why i'm using it in shape of "L". you could also extend the bottom wider part so it completely blocks the gunk to get inside the tank. or you can just make it tighter all the way, but make it even and perfectly rounded as much as possible.
a coil has to be stable, especially if you use 0.25, 0.22 or 0.20mm kanthal. no, i don't fix it daily - maybe weekly. if you want a tip, especially when using tight wicking - use #400 "Super Fine" mesh, because it's easier to shape evenly, it's less pron to shorts, and more flexible to fit in a coil nicely.
to clean a coil, all you have to do is: remove your wick and burn it or, even better, blow it with a butane/jet lighter; to clean a coil, just glow it red. than, put back your wick, and you are good to go
btw, if you have, and even if you don't, any more problems with your set up, it would be good to send us some photo of it, so i can help you and show others an example.
i just tried one tighter mesh wick, and it's, hm... i think i'm gonna make another (short) tutorial about that one
a coil has to be stable, especially if you use 0.25, 0.22 or 0.20mm kanthal. no, i don't fix it daily - maybe weekly. if you want a tip, especially when using tight wicking - use #400 "Super Fine" mesh, because it's easier to shape evenly, it's less pron to shorts, and more flexible to fit in a coil nicely.
to clean a coil, all you have to do is: remove your wick and burn it or, even better, blow it with a butane/jet lighter; to clean a coil, just glow it red. than, put back your wick, and you are good to go
btw, if you have, and even if you don't, any more problems with your set up, it would be good to send us some photo of it, so i can help you and show others an example.
i just tried one tighter mesh wick, and it's, hm... i think i'm gonna make another (short) tutorial about that one
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Thanks Petar...I am working with #325 mesh and never had problems with wicking but I will definitely put in an order for the #400 mesh and see if it helps with my builds. The problem I have now with making the mesh tighter and using more material is to get the perfectly cylindrical shape. Usually I use 65mm of mesh for my wicks....but in order to do that you really have to pinch hard on the mesh when rolling and you just don't get the perfectly shaped mesh. So, a new tutorial from you would be excellent.
I wanted to try and use the 30awg(25mm) wire I had around. I did a seven coil build. I used about 30 mm of mesh. This time I made sure to not oxidize my wick....I lightly flamed it ...in order to clean it. I can't believe how perfectly it worked. It was also very stable...without the wick, the coil had a 1.7ohms resistance and when I put the wick in...it had 1.7ohms resistance. As i was vaping it... I checked the resistance and each time it was 1.7ohms. With my previous builds, using oxidized wick, I would never have such stable readings.
Thanks for all your help....can't wait to see your new wick tutorial.
PS I am big dummy when it comes to the internet so I really don't know how to post pix...or else I would.
I wanted to try and use the 30awg(25mm) wire I had around. I did a seven coil build. I used about 30 mm of mesh. This time I made sure to not oxidize my wick....I lightly flamed it ...in order to clean it. I can't believe how perfectly it worked. It was also very stable...without the wick, the coil had a 1.7ohms resistance and when I put the wick in...it had 1.7ohms resistance. As i was vaping it... I checked the resistance and each time it was 1.7ohms. With my previous builds, using oxidized wick, I would never have such stable readings.
Thanks for all your help....can't wait to see your new wick tutorial.
PS I am big dummy when it comes to the internet so I really don't know how to post pix...or else I would.
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Petar K 28g 1.2 ohms hollow wick no oxidation
Using Petars method I wrapped a 6/7, 28g coil around a 2mm drill bit. I aligned the coils as tight as possible. I got the 6/7 coil within a 4 mm distance from top coil to bottom coil.
I test fired the coil with short bursts at 3.0v and dripped a bit of VG on the coils between test fires.
I rolled a #500 25x40mm hollow wick. I sized the outer diameter of the wick so that it easily slid in and out of the coil with barely any resistance between the wick and coil. I slid the wick in and test fire again dry. All coil glowed evenly. No Shorts!
I filled up the tank, primed the wick and vaped away. The new wick needed about a ½ tank to break in and now is fully operational. The only conductivity barrier is the carbonized VG on the coil and wick.
Two tanks in:
Very nice Petar! Thanks.
Couple of observations: The hollow wick needs a tilt to chain vape. I have similar set ups with solid wicks that do not run dry when chain vaping. I like the close coil setup for minimizing coil heat up time. But the close coils can put a juice demand on the hollow wick and can cause a wick dry-out. However the trade-off is power required. With this set up (close coils and hollow wick), I can vape nicely at about 8 watts (2.7 amps). With a similar set up (but with solid wick) I need 11 watts (3.4 amps/1.0 ohms). However with the lower power requirement I get a 25% increase in battery life.
Using Petars method I wrapped a 6/7, 28g coil around a 2mm drill bit. I aligned the coils as tight as possible. I got the 6/7 coil within a 4 mm distance from top coil to bottom coil.
I test fired the coil with short bursts at 3.0v and dripped a bit of VG on the coils between test fires.
I rolled a #500 25x40mm hollow wick. I sized the outer diameter of the wick so that it easily slid in and out of the coil with barely any resistance between the wick and coil. I slid the wick in and test fire again dry. All coil glowed evenly. No Shorts!
I filled up the tank, primed the wick and vaped away. The new wick needed about a ½ tank to break in and now is fully operational. The only conductivity barrier is the carbonized VG on the coil and wick.
Two tanks in:
Very nice Petar! Thanks.
Couple of observations: The hollow wick needs a tilt to chain vape. I have similar set ups with solid wicks that do not run dry when chain vaping. I like the close coil setup for minimizing coil heat up time. But the close coils can put a juice demand on the hollow wick and can cause a wick dry-out. However the trade-off is power required. With this set up (close coils and hollow wick), I can vape nicely at about 8 watts (2.7 amps). With a similar set up (but with solid wick) I need 11 watts (3.4 amps/1.0 ohms). However with the lower power requirement I get a 25% increase in battery life.
The goal of this method is to keep your wick loose and not tight on the mesh to prevent shorts
Couple of observations: The hollow wick needs a tilt to chain vape. I have similar set ups with solid wicks that do not run dry when chain vaping. I like the close coil setup for minimizing coil heat up time. But the close coils can put a juice demand on the hollow wick and can cause a wick dry-out. However the trade-off is power required. With this set up (close coils and hollow wick), I can vape nicely at about 8 watts (2.7 amps). With a similar set up (but with solid wick) I need 11 watts (3.4 amps/1.0 ohms). However with the lower power requirement I get a 25% increase in battery life.
My set up looks exactly like yours. I also prefer the more solid wick and I also noticed with a solid wick that I needed more wattage to get it working to my liking. May I suggest that the next time you roll the wick... size it so that it almost is going to fall through the coils...so even looser than Petar shows in his video. So with the the wick in place and liquid inside the tank....tilt the device horizontal and do 5 burns each lasting ten seconds. Now the coils will get seasoned and look black....you will notice that the wick is in place more firmly but is loose enough that you can slide it out easily. When I started doing it this way....I stayed under 8 watts when vaping.....my batteries are thanking me for it.
Also before doing the Petar K method I would suggest to people to make their wicks as thick as possible and as solid as possible. Now I think a better way is to use just enough mesh so that you don't have to do the genesis tilt and you can comfortably vape without getting dry hits. I think most people use way to much mesh and make their wicks overly solid...I know I was.
I agree with the wick. Early on, I also made wicks almost solid. I now use a large paper clip to create a small tube up the center, but still use enough mesh to make it sturdy. It's just enough of a tube to allow the inside of the wick to permeate outward so the juice is flowing quicker, but the thickness of the wick holds more so a lot less tilting. Big key to this PK setup is to leave the tank empty, or empty it first, and no juice in the wick initially when assembling so the coil can be adjusted and seasoned properly. Just my 
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