How to make an unoxidized, hot spot free and cleanable coil

[gdeal]

TBinAZ

I roll my wick tight and solid but they are not stiff. I usually roll tight first, then bend them back and forth to loosen layers, the re-roll in the tightening direction just to make it nice and round. So it solid but sorta flexible. Im gonna try the very small center hole next wick.

What is the benefit of using 400 on the outside? Does it have larger pores?

EDO

Good idea with using the slightly loose wick in the coil, then tilt and burn to build an insulating layer. This morning I was not happy with the hollow wick, so I switch it out to a solid wick. This was sooo easy. The hollow wick slid out with a slight twist, I stuck the solid wick in with a slight twist. Did not even need to re-oxidize. The coils retained their insulating layer.

Here's a pic of the new solid wick with a better wick height than I had with the hollow wick. Very little shift in coil form or shape from my prior post's picture.

 

[EDO]

Gdeal....I find that when you fit the wick in a very loose way into the coil and then you start the doing the burns to create the layer of gunk to hold everything together.....you get the best vape. And the heat sink effect of the SS Mesh is minimized....so you don't need to vape at high watts.

I love how you left extra wire sticking out of the positive contact....I do that too.

 

[gdeal]

Gdeal....I find that when you fit the wick in a very loose way into the coil and then you start the doing the burns to create the layer of gunk to hold everything together.....you get the best vape. And the heat sink effect of the SS Mesh is minimized....so you don't need to vape at high watts.

I love how you left extra wire sticking out of the positive contact....I do that too.

My wick is loose in the coil. Not too loose that it can slide down by itself. Is that what you mean, so it can slide freely if you drop it in or turn in upside down?

I usually undersize the wick slightly then reverse roll it to loosen it, so when when I put the wick back in the coil it brushes against the coil ever so slightly so it does not fall in. This way I know I am consistent with wick sizing. How are you sizing your wick?

 

[JollyRogers]

Petar, I have used your method for coils and somewhat for wicks since I think June when you first posted elsewhere. Started off using it in my Orion, of course use it in my Vaper, and have adapted it to all my genisis PVs. The only thing I do different is I torch my wick, and roll a solid wick for my Orion and Zens, but use a hollow wick for my Vaper. I just figure out how much mesh I need to get the solid wick to slide into my pre-made coil and installed coil. It is key to fire the coil a few times before inserting the wick.

PS: Good to see you over here posting again

 

[Pete54]

I also use this method but I do two things a bit different. Instead of using a drill bit I use a machine screw. Once wrapped, you just unscrew the coil off the screw and the coils are evenly spaced. I use a #8 for my DID (3.5mm wick hole) or a #6 for smaller wick holes. Concerning the darkening of the juice, I put a piece of 3mm silica wick inside the ss mesh. The juice doesn't darken and IMO it wicks better.

 

[EDO]

Gdeal...Sorry....your set up looks great. I was talking about how I do it. I also under size the wick and reverse roll it to make it fit. But the point I am making is that it should be so loose fitting that if you sneeze too hard the wick will drop. Then I once I check the ohms etc and I do a dry burn to see all the coils are burning evenly...I put liquid in the tank and tilt device and do burns. The slight gunk that builds around the coil will hold the wick in place. The fit of the wick to the coil will be just right. Hope I did a better job of explaining it this time.

 

[EDO]

I also use this method but I do two things a bit different. Instead of using a drill bit I use a machine screw. Once wrapped, you just unscrew the coil off the screw and the coils are evenly spaced. I use a #8 for my DID (3.5mm wick hole) or a #6 for smaller wick holes. Concerning the darkening of the juice, I put a piece of 3mm silica wick inside the ss mesh. The juice doesn't darken and IMO it wicks better.

Wow that is brilliant idea using a machine screw...I will try that next time.

Why use silica and not jut roll a more solid wick?

 

[gdeal]

Ok, very clear. I got it (finally ). Thanks EDO.

I know it has been only a few days (holidays etc...), but hopefully Petar K checks in here and provides his opinion on our posts and adaptations to his method.

I am always interested in hearing what he has to say.

 

[TBinAZ]

Dang Pete54, I keep forgetting to try the threaded screw. I'll have to go through my tool box to see what I have. Makes a lot of sense. I've tried the silica inside, but it has been a while. I think it gave me an off flavor before. Plus I only had cheap stuff at the time. Now I have some bamboo thread and some hemp. Need to revisit that.

EDO - I found that if the top of the wick isn't snug enough, then you battle top leg hotspot. That's why I reverse roll the top coil portion so it's just right. I see your point about the insulation building with a looser coil.

gdeal - The theory with the dual mesh is that the 500 and/or 635 wicks faster than the 400, but the 400 will hold larger amounts of juice against the coil once it makes it to the top, so it will help to transfer the juice to the 400 and allow the flow to keep up with the coil burn. I guess I like the 400 for the stiffer final product, but I am still waiting on some 500.

 

[TBinAZ]

I think we're kind of hijacking Petar's thread here. Hope he doesn't mind.

 

[petar k]

@EDO - it doesn't have to be 100% perfectly rounded. also, pay attention on those wire tails from the mesh, since they can make shorts too. you have to roll it around something, e.g. a needle which is 0.3 - 0.5mm, and than, when you roll it tightly around the needle, it would be good that it slides down through a coil, so you can widen it a little bit with some other toll, e.g. wider needle or a small nail 0.5 - 1mm. by doing that you will also improve the shape of the mesh from inside, too.
btw, i'm sorry but i don't have enough time now for some vid tutorial.


@gdeal - thats very useful and nice of you to show us the photos and your experience (especially for newbies and those who have the mod like yours). i'm glad you are satisfied with the method, and if something goes wrong - we are here
if you like some characteristics from hollow wick and also some of tighter wick - than find some "middle", between the two.

@pn0yb0i - i would like to correct my self here: the goal is to make it tight as much as it doesn't make shorts. although, different vapers have different preferences.

@EDO - of course, because there is more transfer of heat to the mesh, and since your mesh is larger, it needs more power to heat up.
that's not a bed idea, especially for those that are not so familiar with the method. i'm sure they will not get any hot spots doing it that way and yes, more you vape it, it gets more gunky/oxidized, so it's better insulated. after that, one can try tighter wicks which are better for wicking (without tilting).

@TBinAZ - it's good to live some space for the e-liquid too
...i can't fully disagree about the 500-635 mesh thing, since i didn't try it yet, but i think that it would not make any significant differences/improvement. also, i would stick to the 400 mesh, since it is in some optimum range for wicking, but not so stiff for the method. 500 and 635 meshes would be easier to fit inside a coil, since it's "finer/softer" than the 400, but it's not enough porous. so, if you make it tight, and it's less porous than the 400 mesh, plus gunk build up over some (short) time - there is no enough room for the e-liquid and capillary process. i repeat: didn't use it yet, and those are just my assumptions.

@JollyRogers - hi bro. i don't have anything to tell you, since you have mastered it better than me
well, i didn't have much time before, as i (unwantedly - you know why) have now.

@Pete54 - that's great idea if your mod/wicking hole construction allows you to do that. i have tried it once, but i have also broken one ceramic part that insulates wicking hole, so i'm stack to my drill bit.
also, not a bad idea with the fibers

@TBinAZ - i don't mind this kind of "hijacking" - just continue

 

[mrfixit]

Okay I have been looking at the many ways to roll mesh and wind coils using a tool to wind coils us by far the best method. My question is will this work for all geninsess style units including the clones?

 

[Pete54]

Hey Petar, just to clarify what I meant. I use the machine screw to make the coil but use a drill bit when attaching the coil to the atty. As far as the silica inside the mesh, I have no idea why it stops the juice from darkening, but it does.

 

[gdeal]

I also use this method but I do two things a bit different. Instead of using a drill bit I use a machine screw. Once wrapped, you just unscrew the coil off the screw and the coils are evenly spaced. I use a #8 for my DID (3.5mm wick hole) or a #6 for smaller wick holes. Concerning the darkening of the juice, I put a piece of 3mm silica wick inside the ss mesh. The juice doesn't darken and IMO it wicks better.

Pete54, the wick material inside the hollow wick works great.

I just changed my solid wick back to the hollow one I used earlier. I used two threads from BJ43's special hemp cord. Vertical vapability achieved! I even put my fill screw back it. No leaks, No dry hits. Very Nice....

I did noticed that my tank juice stays cleaner, seems like the wick material inside the mesh is filtering any particles from getting back into the juice.

 

[EDO]

Oh man if I could get my set up to work great with the fill hole in... that would be great. Did you roll the ss mesh around the hemp or did you make the mesh first and somehow insert the hemp in? I don't have hemp.... I wonder how it should be done with silica?

 

[Pete54]

I roll my ss mesh wick first then unroll it and add the silica. I've never been able to vape a Genesis atty with the fill hole closed. They just don't wick for me without an open hole.

 

[gdeal]

I just took the hollow wick I had and threaded the hemp strands through the center. Its not a lot of material and is loose in the hole. But I dont think the pressure equalization is coming from the center of the wick. I have not seen any bubble coming out from the bottom of the wick. What I did notice is that the fill hole screw that I put back in is not tighten to the base. I just did a couple of turns.

I just rechecked the screw. It wobbles back and forth with quite a bit of play, so I may be getting some air inflow there. I think for once, sub-par machining in a chinese atty is providing a benefit. Go figure...

 

[EDO]

thanks for the replies....

Well maybe Petar can help with this because he uses the the Vaper exclusively (his own creation). It doesn't have a fill hole. You fill it with a syringe through the wick itself. I assume Petar's wicks are much smaller than the wick hole....Petar can you lay the Vaper on it side with out it leaking?

 

[petar k]

yes, i can, actually i could, and i'm saying that because i don't use it any more. that's one version of the mod, which has/had 3.5mm wicking hole, and it is presumed for 2mm OD mesh. but it has one small drawback - gunk falls in the tank through the extra space between the mesh and wicking hole's walls. so, now i switched to ~2.3 mm wicking hole, and i do have the filling port now, on my mod, but i don't use it all the time to fill in e-liquid, because i can easily remove my mesh and fill it through the wicking hole.
anyway, if i pull out the filling port "cap" - it will leak.

 

[LeakiWick]

Peter,
Great tutorial,,,I have been making mine very similar to this but I have a question,,,mine is a Zenesis and the negative contact post is not raised at all,, I'm wondering if I modify that screw and fit one that is raised a little should I get a better result? Whaddya think?