How to Solder Question SMD components

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tumbafox

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When soldering a surface mount chip like a voltage regulator onto a circuit board I have seen two methods. In one method recommended by madvapes, they suggest tinning each pad on the Circuit Board and then positioning the regulator SMD chip to align with the pads, hold it in place an then heat the top of each pin until the solder reflows and makes the connection for each pin one at a time.

However, watching a Youtube video by the EEVblog about SMD about tack and reflow soldering, Dave Jones, the host uses a different approach. He only tacks 1 pin onto the board to anchor the chip and then separately solders each pin one at a time.

Is there any advantage in one technique over the other? Does anyone know what I am talking about?

The video I watched was: EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount - YouTube
 

Robert T

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mad vapes instructions:


.Place a single bead of solder on the flat contact for the transistor as shown.

.Using tweezers orient the transistor leads to match up with the 3 contacts labeled Q1 on the board (1).. The contacts should be flush with board.. Hold down the transistor with the tweezers or a flat head screwdriver and re-melt the bead with the iron to solder transistor in place (2).. Hold down the transistor from top with tweezers or a flat head screwdriver and solder the other 2 pins to the circuit board.. Then place 1 more bead of solder on the first pin to ensure good electrical connection. (3) (Note:. The IC is extremely sensitive to static electricity.. Please take appropriate measures to ground yourself or reduce static in your work environment.)


http://www.madvapes.com/assets/images/Newsletter/MOSFET2.jpg


Sounds like the same approach to me.
 
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Str8V8ping

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When soldering a surface mount chip like a voltage regulator onto a circuit board I have seen two methods. In one method recommended by madvapes, they suggest tinning each pad on the Circuit Board and then positioning the regulator SMD chip to align with the pads, hold it in place an then heat the top of each pin until the solder reflows and makes the connection for each pin one at a time.

However, watching a Youtube video by the EEVblog about SMD about tack and reflow soldering, Dave Jones, the host uses a different approach. He only tacks 1 pin onto the board to anchor the chip and then separately solders each pin one at a time.

Is there any advantage in one technique over the other? Does anyone know what I am talking about?

The video I watched was: EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount - YouTube

Dont tin all the pads .If you tin all the pads it makes its much harder to get the chip against the copper and lat flat. Tin only one pin this way you can get it flat and soldered in place before moving to the other pins. Use a magnifying glass as its like working with a regular size chip package. For super tiny chips like 0603's DFN's and such i reflow them on with solder paste since its very hard to solder by hand . Theres also whats called drag soldering which you can do a bunch of tight pin configurations with the correct tip.

ALso remember you dont want too much solder or it will ball up and give a cold joint. Flux can help with that but not really need for such small pins. Heat and then place solder into the heated pin/pad.You dont want to touch the solder the the soldering tip.
 
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Para

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Dont tin all the pads .If you tin all the pads it makes its much harder to get the chip against the copper and lat flat. Tin only one pin this way you can get it flat and soldered in place before moving to the other pins. Use a magnifying glass as its like working with a regular size chip package. For super tiny chips like 0603's DFN's and such i reflow them on with solder paste since its very hard to solder by hand . Theres also whats called drag soldering which you can do a bunch of tight pin configurations with the correct tip.

ALso remember you dont want too much solder or it will ball up and give a cold joint. Flux can help with that but not really need for such small pins. Heat and then place solder into the heated pin/pad.You dont want to touch the solder the the soldering tip.

I disagree.....regardless of the size; it's still metal to metal and you are connecting them with solder, flux cleans and provides the best solder flow. I flux every connection...but that's just my two cents worth. But, remember using the wrong flux can make things worse instead of better....use the right type.
 

tumbafox

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Crap. I did it the other way. I hope the chips lasts a while.

Thanks for the advise. I will use that method in the future. Wish I had your skills.

Also. They say no to use 60/40 tin/lead solder wherever juice can come into contact, like inside a CE2 top coil cartomizer where the wires are actually soldered inside the fluid tube.

What kind of solder should you use? And how do you solder copper to steel?
 

Str8V8ping

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I disagree.....regardless of the size; it's still metal to metal and you are connecting them with solder, flux cleans and provides the best solder flow. I flux every connection...but that's just my two cents worth. But, remember using the wrong flux can make things worse instead of better....use the right type.

Reason im saying no need to buy flux for it is that such a little pad is going to flow good regardless since it doesnt take much at all to heat the pad.
 

Str8V8ping

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Crap. I did it the other way. I hope the chips lasts a while.

Thanks for the advise. I will use that method in the future. Wish I had your skills.

Also. They say no to use 60/40 tin/lead solder wherever juice can come into contact, like inside a CE2 top coil cartomizer where the wires are actually soldered inside the fluid tube.

What kind of solder should you use? And how do you solder copper to steel?

use silver solder where it makes contact with juice. For how you solder steel to copper the answer is you dont . Steel wont solder .Best you can do is get it to flow around the steel in a cold joint.
 

Para

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use silver solder where it makes contact with juice. For how you solder steel to copper the answer is you dont . Steel wont solder .Best you can do is get it to flow around the steel in a cold joint.

I make an adapter to redirect airflow so I can use the draw control of the GGTS with any device I attach to the top of the end cap.

Here's a couple of pics of SS tubing soldered to brass......both flow, both "stick", both are solid. It's the flux that makes the difference. I've found the same results are achievable with copper. Copper is a bit of a bigger challenge because it oxidizes faster than brass when exposed to heat. But, as long as you know the metal's properties and take the right steps, you get the same results.

centerpost.jpg

solder.jpg
 
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