Hybrid Elite Mod by Rainbow Heaven
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Jack's idea for the magnet is a good one. I have neo magnets in another mod and it really works nicely. Less play in the switch and you can adjust the button throw to your liking. It would have no effect on voltage for the Elite but it would be very smooth. Just have to source the right sized neo magnets and it should be a drop in deal. Neo or rare earth magnets are tricky to modify in terms of filing or grinding. They are very thin and wicked brittle. They are plated also. I have bought from these folks before. Quick service, and they know way too much about magnets:
KJ Magnets
KJ Magnets
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Ace part number for the brass Chicago screw set is 44737-B, SKU is 0823674997
Thanks Mic. i`ll have her look that up and see what i can do. i ended up ordering 20pc brass from hong kong. best deal i can find. i`m using one now but its steel.
10 5×6MM Leather Craft Belt Wallet Solid Brass Nail Rivets Chicago Screws | eBay
10 5×6MM Leather Craft Belt Wallet Solid Brass Nail Rivets Chicago Screws | eBay
This wasn't too bad of a deal.
Weaver Leather Chicago Screw Handy Pack 6 Plain Solid Brass 30 1099 | eBay
Nice. Those look better than the ones I used. Inexpensive too. I don't have PayPal or I'd go for those.
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Quick question just because I can be thick-headed sometimes:
Is it a good idea to put a little Noalox on the part of the switch that meets the button? In my case, that would be the brass fitting that Mickey hooked me up with. Same question for the positive end of the battery, at the top, where it meets the atty connection. Just want to make sure. I'm always a little nervous about doing something to kill my batteries, since I don't have any spares right now...
Is it a good idea to put a little Noalox on the part of the switch that meets the button? In my case, that would be the brass fitting that Mickey hooked me up with. Same question for the positive end of the battery, at the top, where it meets the atty connection. Just want to make sure. I'm always a little nervous about doing something to kill my batteries, since I don't have any spares right now...
I did this to a few of my mods. It shouldn't really hurt anything.
Thanks. I always feel better having a second opinion/more input before I do...well....almost anything.
heh.
heh.
They are, but that is fine. You could grind them flat. The ones I got from TSC had a domed shaped female side and that went to the button. The other male screw had a flat head slot and I didn't even use that. I just used the female one and ground it down to fit so I could screw the button in all the way. I also put glue around the edge on the top side to make sure it didn't come out. I used RC plane glue and some accelerator so it dried super quick. Super glue would work fine too.
Thats kinda what i did except all i had was a SS chicago screw and used the male side down with the tube of the female part cut off and screwed on to adjust the batt length. i would take a pic but batts are on the charger. my connection is 100% better but i want a softer metal so the brass i ordered will work fine. i dont think i`ll be gluing it down tho. i`m gunna attempt to make a new setup with what i ordered. i want the fire button to be brass also. thats just for looks. it wont help conductivity.
It wont hurt anything. I just use it on anything that threads. All the tubes, brass screw, etc. I avoid putting it right on the firing pin as it makes it stick a little bit for me. It certainly can't hurt.
I can not figure out how to get the switch completely disassembled without chewing up the button. The ....... does not want to budge.
I can not figure out how to get the switch completely disassembled without chewing up the button. The ....... does not want to budge.
Yea, I took the whole switch assembly out of the bottom housing that screws into the bottom of the tube. Then I had to hold the button head with a pair of pliers and used a screw driver in the top of the firing pin where the slot is. You can take it and heat it with a torch to soften up the glue some. That should make it easier to get apart. You can also wrap something around the button between it and the pliers to protect it a little more.
Glue! What freak put glue on it...ok I'll get it. You wouldn't melt the white plastic part?
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You might. I would just heat the button head. It might also discolor the button. But that is where the threads are at so that is where I would focus the heat.
If you have a heat gun use that. i think it would help and not melt sh**. my button got a little chewed up, thats why i want it replaced. its chrome plated brass. if you fu** up your firing pin like i did from turning the screw driver like a mad man and need to sand it down to fit in that plastic piece without sticking, your pin will be shorter so it may not fire. to fix this i used copper wire rolled up in a ball, you can use paper or whatever but i put that in the threaded hole where the button screws in so the button wont screw in all the way and make it act longer then what it is to make up the space that was sanded off. it sounds confusing so if anyone need pics let me know.
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