The positive side denting is the most likely scenario for failure in a seemingly safe setup, and almost inevitable on an iffy one. Most see a protruding 510 and think it is safe, but denting the positive side of the battery is not difficult. I saw it happen using my SMPL. If your 510 pin is borderline, it will soon dent enough to allow the positive contact to touch the threads. It is a safe bet there are plenty unreported occurrences. I retired my SMPL to be used only if absolutely necessary, just isn't worth the risk
Hybrid Mods?
- Thread starter dixonjosh77
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Probably already mentioned many times.
Some mechs are just hybrid and some come with a hybrid top you can screw on.
If there is a battery in the mod and you look down where you screw on the atomiser and you can see the top of the battery then its a hybrid mod or you have a hybrid top on the mod. If you see a pin and no battery then its not hybrid. Well so is my understanding.
For a hybrid mod you want the 510 screw on the atomiser to stick out and stay out from the outer casing. The subtanks out now as far as I know don't have adjustable 510 pins and they don't stick out or stay out so its not recommended to use them on hybrid mod.
Also make sure the 510 is adjustable , some are not and you may think your letting it out but you find if you push it then the 510 goes back in.
Some mechs are just hybrid and some come with a hybrid top you can screw on.
If there is a battery in the mod and you look down where you screw on the atomiser and you can see the top of the battery then its a hybrid mod or you have a hybrid top on the mod. If you see a pin and no battery then its not hybrid. Well so is my understanding.
For a hybrid mod you want the 510 screw on the atomiser to stick out and stay out from the outer casing. The subtanks out now as far as I know don't have adjustable 510 pins and they don't stick out or stay out so its not recommended to use them on hybrid mod.
Also make sure the 510 is adjustable , some are not and you may think your letting it out but you find if you push it then the 510 goes back in.
100% agree with this sentiment.
Even on mechs that "loosely" hold the battery or are very close to rattly, I've noticed dents in the tops of 18650's after extended use.
Also, as far as I'm aware, the Subtanks use a spring-loaded 510, which is ABSOLUTELY a no-no for a hybrid mech mod.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Denting of the top of the battery is something hardly ever mentioned with this problem.
Somebody might have an atty which has a center pin that protrudes 1/2 mm, and they think that's good enough, and it seems to work fine one minute, then they switch out to another battery, but the replacement battery has become indented with use and especially from being hard-compressed inside a mech mod instead of being housed with a spring-compression flashlight type housing; at this point the battery gets shorted out.
A real hybrid atty has a BIG center pin which sticks out more like a half centimetre from the base of the atty, not a half millimetre from the bottom of the 510 thread of the typical atty. With a BIG center pin there's also no chance of denting the battery.
Issues around these types of mods with no center pin:
1: Require an atty that has an extended center pin.
2: The small 510 atty center pin might dent the top of the battery and lead to a short
3: An atty might have a center pin which looks like it sticks out a lot, but when you scew it down, the centerpin might get pushed up! and the 510 thread ends up in contact with the battery causing a short. Some attys even have a spring loaded center pin.
The Kanger ST's use a floating 510, which is just a disaster waiting to happen. While the 510 pin may protrude just fine while the atty is on, forcing the pin to a specific length, if you remove the tank (leaving the base, which is very common) to change the coil or work on the RBA , and you have a hybrid mod that is applying pressure from the bottom, then the pin can be easily pushed up into the threads. I don't know about other systems, but the ST's should be no where near a hybrid.
People forget these batteries were designed for a flashlight with a static connection. We have adapted them to be used with our devices, but they were not made to handle the constant pressure being applied to the positive side in these mechs. It would be nice to see a battery manufacturer come out with a battery that was made for mechs, that uses a much thicker metal on the positive end (maybe there is?).
People forget these batteries were designed for a flashlight with a static connection. We have adapted them to be used with our devices, but they were not made to handle the constant pressure being applied to the positive side in these mechs. It would be nice to see a battery manufacturer come out with a battery that was made for mechs, that uses a much thicker metal on the positive end (maybe there is?).
there is zero way possible that the pin is being pushed in flush...I removed 2 threads worth off the 510 connection on the atlantis side. The only way that pin on the base of the tank can move in is with no coil head installed and you were to tighten the battery cap on the smpl with a screwdriver. I feel its safe, used it this way for months with no problems...should a newbie do it? maybe not...but I feel 110% safe in having it the way it is and using it.
There's a company that makes replacement pins for the Atlantis tanks for use (safely) with a hybrid top cap style mod. Dominus mods i believe.
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I've ordered a bunch of these m21x1 topcaps to leave permanently onto my tanks/toppers:
By doing so, I'll be able to use my tanks/toppers as if they were true hybrids, like this:
By doing so, I'll be able to use my tanks/toppers as if they were true hybrids, like this:
I've ordered a bunch of these m21x1 topcaps to leave permanently onto my tanks/toppers:
By doing so, I'll be able to use my tanks/toppers as if they were true hybrids, like this:
View attachment 422394
View attachment 422396
Lol
Not sure if serious,................ That's the exact opposite of a hybrid mod.
Somewhere the definition of a hybrid got lost somehow
Yes, absolutely serious.
The objective is not be screwing/unscrewing on the small cigalike sized 510 thread all the time.
If I were to weld the topcaps onto the toppers, they would actually become true hybrids as far as the eye could see.
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No they would still be 510 connected, welded or not
Unless somehow you can also weld the 510 contact on the tank to the 510 pin in the top cap a hybrid is designed to remove excess links from the circuit path.
By definition a hybrid mod removes the top cap for a direct connection from battery to atomizer pin.putting a separate top cap in the way of that straight connection breaks that rule besides being direct connected is hybrids are supposed to look like one piece without the top cap ruining the lines
I understand what your doing, but you didn't make the Atty a hybrid connection.good idea for change outs though.
Unless somehow you can also weld the 510 contact on the tank to the 510 pin in the top cap a hybrid is designed to remove excess links from the circuit path.
By definition a hybrid mod removes the top cap for a direct connection from battery to atomizer pin.putting a separate top cap in the way of that straight connection breaks that rule besides being direct connected is hybrids are supposed to look like one piece without the top cap ruining the lines
I understand what your doing, but you didn't make the Atty a hybrid connection.good idea for change outs though.
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