Yes. Considering that a 25R has a continuous rating of 20A, and pulling 20A from said battery gives it a run time of about 9 minutes, a 30 second pulse at 35A doesn't sound unreasonable. Plus, people have tested limits of several batteries.
i feel like im beating a dead horse
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Yes. Considering that a 25R has a continuous rating of 20A, and pulling 20A from said battery gives it a run time of about 9 minutes, a 30 second pulse at 35A doesn't sound unreasonable. Plus, people have tested limits of several batteries.
For the Samsung 25R, pulse is defined as less than one second. Here's the proof (page 3): http://www.powerstream.com/p/INR18650-25R-datasheet.pdf
It does allow that pulse to be 100A though, which is higher than the generally given 30A.
This is why pulse ratings are worthless for vaping. They are set for industrial applications. No one can really pulse their batteries while vaping; at least not in a way the batteries are rated at...
Which is why I said generally because that's the only battery I've ever seen give a pulse rating of 100A(but of course specify that that rating is only for less than a second). I have, however, seen batteries specifically say 35A pulse < 30 seconds. I've also seen other tech sources say that generally, pulse ratings are for 30 seconds(which is significantly less time than what a continuous discharge accounts for).
What do you think you're doing when you take a pull? Those few seconds are a pulse in comparison to the time a continuous discharge rating accounts for.
It is not the pulse the battery manufacturers have rated their batteries at...
Yeah, let's compare garbage batteries to reputable brands. That's totally relevant.
I only go by the CDR as "pulse" doesn't seem to have any standard. And depending on the atty my draw might be 3s or 8s.
Regardless of what constitutes a pulse, that CDR is a good indication that if my switch gets stuck, my battery will be able to take the load until it's fully discharged. I feel more comfortable doing it that way, and I wouldn't recommend using the pulse rating.
Regardless of what constitutes a pulse, that CDR is a good indication that if my switch gets stuck, my battery will be able to take the load until it's fully discharged. I feel more comfortable doing it that way, and I wouldn't recommend using the pulse rating.
If you're worried about your switch getting stuck then you should be in the market for a new mod. Besides, if that were to happen, that's when you take your mod apart and remove the battery, and if you're worried about being unable to do that in a timely manner, then you REALLY need to be looking for a new mod.
I don't know why I bother trying to help people here. This forum is full of misinformed people who think that building below .2 ohms is going to blow up your mod lol.
There are more ways to get an unintentional fire than just a stuck switch; that was just one example. No single mod is perfect, and there is always a way for something to go wrong. I never stated that I thought going below .2 ohms would blow up your mod.
Last thing, just wanted to clarify that those are the guidelines I follow. I don't get mad at people who don't do the same as me... but i won't recommend people to do something that I see as unsafe.
Tested Vaping on a 25R at .15
3 to 4 second hits...4 to 5 hits in a row...
Battery is cold---atty is warm
Do what you want with this purely observational analysis.
It's all good.
3 to 4 second hits...4 to 5 hits in a row...
Battery is cold---atty is warm
Do what you want with this purely observational analysis.
It's all good.
You build pulls 14 amps at 4.2 volts.
ohms = volts / amps = 0.3 ohms
watts = volts x amps = 59 watts
Battery goes down by 40%; I'll translate that to mean it goes down to 3.8 volts
now amps = volts/ohms = 3.8/0.3 = 12.7 amps
watts = 48 watts
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