I just rebuilt a Kanger T3 base!

[MorpheusPA]

It wasn't easy, but according to all reports, that's the case with these. The space is small, and it was probably a rather extreme challenge for a first-timer.

I know I occasionally see threads asking for help, so I thought I'd post what worked for me, and the challenges I had.

1) Take the old one apart. Don't mix up the pieces, and be careful removing the white rubber grommet from the base. It doesn't feel like it'll put up with a lot of punishment. I used a flat-edge and small pair of pliers, but want to try my round-tip jeweler's pliers on them as that may work more easily.

2) I found a VERY tight wrap of 32 gauge Kanthal A1 did well, and gave me around 2 ohms when done in a 4/5 wrap. Wrap REALLY tight.

3) I used 2 mm silica, which seems to work well (the new atty is only 15 minutes old, so I may update this). That worked for both the main wick and flavor wick, although draw does seem a touch tight. It's loosening a bit as I use it, not leaking, and not giving dry hits.

4) When placing the wick, be VERY careful that the wire that will go through the center of the rubber grommet and be pinned by the metal base insert does NOT touch the sides of the atomizer. It took me three tries to get this right, and I can see it will continue to be an issue.

5) Install the rubber grommet with one wire through the center (the one that can't touch the sides) and one pinned on the outside edge (that can touch the sides, it doesn't matter).

And, as always:

TEST YOUR RESISTANCE before using the thing. In fact, do it twice. Do it when you put it back together, then screw it onto your device. Remove immediately and re-test the resistance to make sure the central wire didn't bend a bit and hit the side--that happened to me twice.

 

[ConradM]

4) When placing the wick, be VERY careful that the wire that will go through the center of the rubber grommet and be pinned by the metal base insert does NOT touch the sides of the atomizer. It took me three tries to get this right, and I can see it will continue to be an issue.

Huh? I just put the grommet in, put the pin in and broke off the excess wire. It should break off right at the seem.

 

[MorpheusPA]

Huh? I just put the grommet in, put the pin in and broke off the excess wire. It should break off right at the seem.

I had issues with the wire, as it passed from the atty to the base, hitting the side of the atomizer and shorting it out.

I may be doing something wrong. This is not only possible, it's likely.

 

[ConradM]

I had issues with the wire, as it passed from the atty to the base, hitting the side of the atomizer and shorting it out.

I may be doing something wrong. This is not only possible, it's likely.

How do you get rid of the excess wire? Clippers? Just twist it off and it'll break at the seem.

 

[MorpheusPA]

How do you get rid of the excess wire? Clippers? Just twist it off and it'll break at the seem.

Clippers, but I'll try the twisting thing. I have...er, about fifty of these in a Tupperware bowl to rebuild. They've been building up for quite a while...

 

[DasBluCig]

How do you get rid of the excess wire? Clippers? Just twist it off and it'll break at the seem.

Fingernail clippers....or VERY SMALL diagonal cutters....and, YES! Trim it CLOSE to the grommet!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!

 

[MacTechVpr]

It wasn't easy, but according to all reports, that's the case with these. The space is small, and it was probably a rather extreme challenge for a first-timer.

I know I occasionally see threads asking for help, so I thought I'd post what worked for me, and the challenges I had.

1) Take the old one apart. Don't mix up the pieces, and be careful removing the white rubber grommet from the base. It doesn't feel like it'll put up with a lot of punishment. I used a flat-edge and small pair of pliers, but want to try my round-tip jeweler's pliers on them as that may work more easily.

2) I found a VERY tight wrap of 32 gauge Kanthal A1 did well, and gave me around 2 ohms when done in a 4/5 wrap. Wrap REALLY tight.

3) I used 2 mm silica, which seems to work well (the new atty is only 15 minutes old, so I may update this). That worked for both the main wick and flavor wick, although draw does seem a touch tight. It's loosening a bit as I use it, not leaking, and not giving dry hits.

4) When placing the wick, be VERY careful that the wire that will go through the center of the rubber grommet and be pinned by the metal base insert does NOT touch the sides of the atomizer. It took me three tries to get this right, and I can see it will continue to be an issue.

5) Install the rubber grommet with one wire through the center (the one that can't touch the sides) and one pinned on the outside edge (that can touch the sides, it doesn't matter).

And, as always:

TEST YOUR RESISTANCE before using the thing. In fact, do it twice. Do it when you put it back together, then screw it onto your device. Remove immediately and re-test the resistance to make sure the central wire didn't bend a bit and hit the side--that happened to me twice.

Interjecting to reply to your good post Morph as you seem to have the observational skills and inclination to help others do things effectively. But 32 AWG is way to flimsy, distorts too easily, along with silica itself, to avoid constantly having to rebuild persnickety clearo's. Also too thin and insufficient surface vaporization area for the amount of wick (2mm) you propose; but, it can be made to work, for a time (floods easily, wet shorts often). You need a wick/coil combo that will last you many days with a minimum of fuss (at refills). Can be done with silica but you'll have to do more head swaps and it's too hard to thread in place or dry burn effectively. Below are two excellent threads that cover localization, symmetry and yes…re your remarks on grounding shorts…precision coils/termination. It's so easy a child could do it.





It takes just a few minutes using common supplies to wind a correct electrical coil. Kids do jump rings every day. This will take you about a minute to wind 16 wraps, de-wind the extra turns to leave a very tight center of 8 or 9 turns perfectly with the resulting metal memory of a screen door spring. No crunchy, squeezy, pinchy required. Torch it right on the screwdriver, if you like, and install it intact right on that 3TS, Evod, Protank, Mini. Invert the coil (8 turns facing up), separate the turns and extend into the posts, tighten in place and consider…those end legs are fighting to resume the position you wound them in. Always trying to be a coil. Pulse the mod and squeeze them together until you get an even burn from the center to perfect your contact coil. You now have an annealed burned in coil and you haven't had to manhandle a single wire. That is what gives you the durability.

We're using coils that weren't considered functional even at the start of electronics. t believe if you review these two threads you're going to find what you need for a building technique to perfect the vape you want...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

Happy Holidays. Good luck.