My recent order of these new kanger heads from DV, also supposed to be 1.8, all test at around 2.1.
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My Smoktech 1.8s actually are 1.8. Have you guys ever looked at one? They are beautiful coils, and they work in Kanger EVOD/protank.Yeah.... they can never guarantee the actual resistance of the heads you get in packs... that's sort of a crap shoot.
Yes, I usually use my Aros in my PT2, but I rebuild them all. But when I was using stock heads, I started a thread about how the Aro head had much more flavor than the Kanger, and should be used in the PT2 for a better vape. I still prefer it over the Kanger head.
Honestly, I'm just gonna try rebuilding a few for my gf. She uses a spinner and a T3S, and my provari doesn't use ego threading. I'm waiting on my aspire BDC Novas and if they work well, I'll be switching to those.
So what's the alternative to clearos? I currently have a Kangertech T3S and looking to buy a spare. What can I buy which will fit on my egoctwist battery?
Pretty much anything will fit on that. It just won't feel right.
Look for ego threaded clearos.
I recommend the aspire ET. I hear nothing but awesome things about them!
The quote of mine you were replying to was from early on in the thread where I speculated Kanger came out with a new silicone grommet to save clearos from losing too much market share (all paraphrasing here and summarizing) because of people moving away from them to avoid that stinky grommet. If you like your T3S you can hang on, as people are now starting to receive heads with the new silicone grommets when they are buying replacements (no guarantee of that yet, but you could ask the vendor ahead of time)... however one member said they tasted bad from machine oils in the manuf process, but all new heads do in my experience, which is why they need to be washed before using.
That said, if you really want alternatives to clearos that don't use a head at all, you would be looking at carto tank systems, RBAs like the Ginny devices and Kayfun (more expensive), plain old cartos, or drippers, to name some off the top of my head.
EDIT: Which of those would be good for an eGo twist, I can't tell you as I don't own one, sorry.
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It's amazing how much we have learned in just a few short months, huh Trayce?
I'm vaping on one of the last builds I just did, posted yesterday on the PT MC thread…
A couple of confirmations of new tight lows for builds on the PT; and…
I described a manual technique or approach for creating very tight winds without torching. I've been working with this for a few weeks using only an instrument screwdriver and forceps. The picture is almost self explanatory…
I'm vaping on the 1.85Ω this afternoon. I can't get it to flood or dry out no matter how I hit it.
Two months ago I was still struggling for solutions to the flooding and grommet burns not too long before that. I guess we all fall into the habit of doing it how everybody else does it. It's kinda natural for us as communal creatures, I guess. Or, maybe it's that lazy streak in each of us. Well I must be the laziest **** of them all 'cause I just hate doin' it the hard way and working' so damn hard. And a simple method was there, right there in my hands, as I marveled at dark zero's "amazing jig". And there was...a method for the rest of us that hardly costs a dime based on the very same facts that we've all known for more than a century. That metal is wound or formed under pressure and tension. I'd been doing it to torch since the first microcoil I did. But like the sad little penguin I kept on hand-over-hand winding. I see a bunch of lazy people out there just like me that take to this simple manual wind and sprout little microcoil pics all over these pages. Then maybe not.
I wish I'd had 'em. Never found the video on clearo's on ECF or anywhere. But weeks ago I did run across one of some massive coils being formed under tension on youtube. Funny thing trayce, it was from an old black and white factory film out of the Smithsonian Archives of a factory from the turn of the [next to] last century. The you have this kind of…oh, yeah…moment. When did we forget how to work with our hands?
Just sayin'.
I'm vaping on one of the last builds I just did, posted yesterday on the PT MC thread…[...] I described a manual technique or approach for creating very tight winds without torching. I've been working with this for a few weeks using only an instrument screwdriver and forceps. The picture is almost self explanatory…
View attachment 278506
I'm vaping on the 1.85Ω this afternoon. I can't get it to flood or dry out no matter how I hit it.
Haven't read the thread yet, but I assume you are keeping taught pressure with the forceps and rolling the screwdriver between your fingers to do the wind. Clever. Don't own forceps and my needle nose have a pattern in the tongs that allows slippage if the wire isn't gripped at the right angle, so forceps would def make it easier. Maybe the next time I order something online, I'll get a pair. In the meantime I don't mind the jig or even winding by hand and torching. But we'll see if I still feel that way once I try your method.
Haven't read the thread yet, but I assume you are keeping taught pressure with the forceps and rolling the screwdriver between your fingers to do the wind. Clever. Don't own forceps and my needle nose have a pattern in the tongs that allows slippage if the wire isn't gripped at the right angle, so forceps would def make it easier. Maybe the next time I order something online, I'll get a pair. In the meantime I don't mind the jig or even winding by hand and torching. But we'll see if I still feel that way once I try your method.
That's exactly right. As much as I may apply. Which is easy when you think about it because you're using your hands rather than trying to do the "squishy, crunchy" thing with your fingers. I've worked in industry and seen this process applied countless times. But who the the heck thinks to apply such high technology to these little things. Well obviously darkzero did. But golly jeez, I had at it at the tip of my fingers.
Seriously anybody can do this and whip out a ready made contact coil in seconds, literally. And it goes right into the head for pulse and burn. Done. The ones I've done straight like this look better than the ones I torch and burn. Probably shinier and prettier and that's the bias. Torching no doubt improves their long term rigidity which I've been benefitting from. Some of those are out six weeks and going strong in Kangers and drippers, soon Ody and Kayfun. But for the beginner, damn, that's gotta help.
Try and think of something else besides a forceps that might be handy. But even so, a few bucks on ebay, 2 buck screwdriver kit and you're good to go.
I was surprised how much tension I could apply. And also how easily I could break 'em too (30g). LMK how you make out.
Good luck
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Def will let you know. I know they're cheap... in fact for anyone interested I saw these and they have free shipping and are only a few bucks, and you get 2, one curved, one straight: SE - Forceps - Straight & Curved 5.5in (2 Pieces) - Amazon.com ... they are also 5-inch which I like better than big long honkin' ones for this... however I have no idea if they are any good... maybe they won't grip something as small as a 30g wire very well.
Truthfully though, the reason I am not on fire to get these (but am interested and will try soon) is that my coils come out barely needing to be torched as it is. Maybe just from getting the hang of it. This morning I wound 6 with a jig (1/16th) and 6 more by hand on my IGO-L screwdriver (I like that slightly larger ID for the PT2 and the 1/16ths for the Aro tanks), and it took me all of 5 min to make those 12, plus 10min more to torch/squeeze all 12 coils using the gas stove and needle nose. So 15 min or so, for 12 coils... Then I put them in their respective plastic snap boxes (re-purposing washer or screw cases I guess), so when I need a coil I have one ready. When I get low, I make another batch.
But I like trying new things and this method intrigues because it is different and you'd have a lot more control over the wind which sounds fun. So will def try it.
A heads up (no pun intended) for those looking for the clear silicone replacement grommets....
In my box of random bits and pieces I found several RBA center-post insulators that work perfectly well as replacements for the stock awful rubber grommets in clearo heads. I have no idea what RBAs they are from, but if you are really wanting some good insulators it would be worth the trouble to go looking around sites that sell replacement bits for RBAs. I'm thinking they are from a cobra rebuild kit but honestly I can't remember where they came from.
In my box of random bits and pieces I found several RBA center-post insulators that work perfectly well as replacements for the stock awful rubber grommets in clearo heads. I have no idea what RBAs they are from, but if you are really wanting some good insulators it would be worth the trouble to go looking around sites that sell replacement bits for RBAs. I'm thinking they are from a cobra rebuild kit but honestly I can't remember where they came from.
Whoa! He giveth and he taketh away!!
Good to know some are out there SOMEWHERE....
I am unfamiliar with RBAs but didn't think they had anything even remotely resembling a head... just two posts to sling a coil between, or the vertical coil type used with ceramic wicks. Trying to imagine where a center post insulator would go in such a thing....obviously I am unfamiliar with the type that would use it, or where.
Heh sorry, my memory isn't the best
Yeah RBAs don't use heads in the same way as clearos, but the center post on most RBAs goes straight through from the 510 connection up to where you attach the wire. There is insulators of varying sizes and designs depending on the RBA that surround the center post in a similar way to the grommet on the clearo heads.
I'm going to look around online real quick and see if I can track them down
Ok I found the little guys:
http://www................../AGA-Parts_p_195.html
#4 obviously, only 35 cents a piece!
They look the same as the ones I have here in front of me, they are a little different shape than the stock grommets but work great in the heads I have.
Ok evidently I'm not allowed to link to a certain vendor? Odd, must be ecig bigwig drama.
Here they are at kidneypuncher (hopefully ecf won't block them too)
http://www.kidneypuncher.com/aga-series-positive-post-insulators-10-pack/
10 pack for under two bucks.
Here is a customer comment from that product page:
"I am so thankful someone told me you carry these little grommets or insulators. I rebuild all my Kanger coils and the rubber insulators were ripping and burning. I was tearing my hair out looking for these! Thank you so much I have told people about them and plan on keeping some in stock at all times"
Should work perfectly for your needs!
Yeah RBAs don't use heads in the same way as clearos, but the center post on most RBAs goes straight through from the 510 connection up to where you attach the wire. There is insulators of varying sizes and designs depending on the RBA that surround the center post in a similar way to the grommet on the clearo heads.
I'm going to look around online real quick and see if I can track them down
Ok I found the little guys:
http://www................../AGA-Parts_p_195.html
#4 obviously, only 35 cents a piece!
They look the same as the ones I have here in front of me, they are a little different shape than the stock grommets but work great in the heads I have.
Ok evidently I'm not allowed to link to a certain vendor? Odd, must be ecig bigwig drama.
Here they are at kidneypuncher (hopefully ecf won't block them too)
http://www.kidneypuncher.com/aga-series-positive-post-insulators-10-pack/
10 pack for under two bucks.
Here is a customer comment from that product page:
"I am so thankful someone told me you carry these little grommets or insulators. I rebuild all my Kanger coils and the rubber insulators were ripping and burning. I was tearing my hair out looking for these! Thank you so much I have told people about them and plan on keeping some in stock at all times"
Should work perfectly for your needs!
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They certainly don't Chuck! But first before I go and get ya all riled up on me let me say I really appreciated your post at
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hs-heat-coils-faster-better.html#post11438905
It kinda reminded me once more how valuable concise is and of Einstein's quote
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." Albert Einstein.
An excellent exposition of knowledge on that thread and your précis; but, AGA-TD positive post insulators you mention do not fit Kanger Protank or most clearo's. And what baffles me is why folks who've apparently never tried it keep on suggesting they do, or might. Real people are biting their nails over their failing devices, looking for answers here, spending serious money and time. getting frustrated at vendors and their equipment and on and on endlessly because we create a cluster*** when we hand out misinformation. Not trying to single you out and pick on ya Chuck. But I was one of them. And with time as we gain experience we kinda forget what it was like. Chuck, all that said, thank you for your good intentions. I keep looking for your excellent additions to this forum. I appreciate all who've contributed solutions, and do.
Here are pics of the wrong insulators and the confirmed working insulator replacements
The silicone insulators are from the aforementioned vendor. I've tested these, and from various sources expecting a difference, on all kinds of clearo's including all Kanger's. I guess I suspended disbelief and refused to simply take out a micrometer for some time and observe the obvious. Hopefully the above will be sufficient for most of you so that you can spare yourself the exercise. I'm not going to repeat it. For the inquisitive minds, have at it. Report your results here, if you will
Alongside the non-equivalent insulator is an actual equivalent alternative I, and others, have tested and posted remarks about. I made observations on why the preceding silicone insulators fail and links to others along with a link to the vendor source for the working alternative at
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do-13.html#post11416296
So for all of you considering using AGA-TD positive post insulators as substitutes for those on Kanger Protank and other clearo's make friends with the forum's advanced search function, read your stuff and let the buyer beware including of information on this forum. The proof is in the pictures or the caliper in your hands.
Good luck!
MacTec,
Thanks for the post I would hate to be suggesting the wrong item! I had previously put a disclaimer in my post saying I wasn't sure if the ones on the site, were the same ones I had, but after reading that comment in the comments section it appeared others had used them with success so I figured it unnecessary. As far as getting riled up, I feel like I'm being teased about something but I'm not clever enough to figure out what.
The hunt continues then I guess, I'm really thinking the ones I have were for a cobra or cobra clone. they fit a tad looser and don't extend as high as the stock, but with wire between them they grab hold strong enough on the center pin to not worry me about shorting out or anything. I really wish I knew what they were, I'm sure your used to pulling random parts out of the "junk box' and wondering "Where the heck did this come from?"
Sorry for the misleading info, and good luck to those trying to find some better insulators.
Thanks for the post I would hate to be suggesting the wrong item! I had previously put a disclaimer in my post saying I wasn't sure if the ones on the site, were the same ones I had, but after reading that comment in the comments section it appeared others had used them with success so I figured it unnecessary. As far as getting riled up, I feel like I'm being teased about something but I'm not clever enough to figure out what.
The hunt continues then I guess, I'm really thinking the ones I have were for a cobra or cobra clone. they fit a tad looser and don't extend as high as the stock, but with wire between them they grab hold strong enough on the center pin to not worry me about shorting out or anything. I really wish I knew what they were, I'm sure your used to pulling random parts out of the "junk box' and wondering "Where the heck did this come from?"
Sorry for the misleading info, and good luck to those trying to find some better insulators.
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MacTechVpr said:
I actually saw those weeks ago but b/c they were shaped a little different and I couldn't tell from the pic if they were actually silicone, so I didn't get them. However, I'd venture the reason Chuck suggested them is because of the people who bought and reviewed them on that site, saying they worked with their Protanks. Which I also read at the time, which is why I even considered them. How much more thorough are we supposed to get than trusting those who said, "I bought these and they work with my Protank!" Just saying... imho Chuck didn't deserve a smack down, even delivered alongside compliments. A mere, "Actually, I bought those and I don't know why people are reporting they work, but they didn't work in my experience" would have done just as well, and kindlier, no?
As always, appreciated the info, but personally could not tell from the pics and your explanation which insulator was the one you claim works. Even the final picture looks like the grommet is too big, but I guess that's the one you meant as being "the right replacement." I admittedly did not read the thread you linked to... following too many already to just get some quick clarification. IAC I am happy with the silicone tube, so my motivation is admittedly limited.
But thanks for the info.
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I read the same reviews so who would guess they don't work? It is also possible the grommets themselves are not always the same exact grommets... the supplier might provide grommets that look alike to the naked eye but need a caliper to tell the diff... they might ALL work on the AGA [or whatever device they are being sold for], but maybe only some worked on the PT2. Who knows... with all this stuff coming from China I can see suppliers substituting one grommet for another as long as it will work on the thing they are telling you it works on... and those are not being sold for the PT2... but some of the stock might well have worked on them.
As far as getting riled up, I feel like I'm being teased about something but I'm not clever enough to figure out what.
I think Mac was worried about the rest of us getting riled up. Bottom line, thanks for going to all that trouble to find that site again and track those grommets down.
Ain't it the truth!
No apologies necessary! If this hadn't come up many people might have come upon those grommets just like I did some weeks back, but might have ordered them based on the reviews. Now thanks to you and Mac people will know they better wait for a Kanger grommet, or the like.
MacTec,
Thanks for the post I would hate to be suggesting the wrong item! I had previously put a disclaimer in my post saying I wasn't sure if the ones on the site, were the same ones I had, but after reading that comment in the comments section it appeared others had used them with success so I figured it unnecessary. As far as getting riled up, I feel like I'm being teased about something but I'm not clever enough to figure out what.
The hunt continues then I guess, I'm really thinking the ones I have were for a cobra or cobra clone. they fit a tad looser and don't extend as high as the stock, but with wire between them they grab hold strong enough on the center pin to not worry me about shorting out or anything. I really wish I knew what they were, I'm sure your used to pulling random parts out of the "junk box' and wondering "Where the heck did this come from?"
Sorry for the misleading info, and good luck to those trying to find some better insulators.
Thanks Uncle and I wasn't trying to be snippy. And Trayce is right following. Too many of us are just nodding our heads in agreement. And yes we rely, myself included, sometimes on too little information. I posted with multiple and repetitive tags so that hopefully it results higher in searches for this subject matter. So that neither you are I are misdirected again. I've enjoyed your posts on many topics. You are a gentleman and a class act. Thanks for your acknowledgement.
Good luck!
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