I Think I'm Dumb (or maybe just happy)

[Thrasher]

I'm just happy to be dumb.

Welcome to our club I use a mechanical at 30 watts or less
Knowing your toppers performance level is more important then turning your power knob

Rich thick billowey clouds, no 100 watt mod needed.


If you enjoy what you got then you got all you need

 

[SissySpike]

The relationship between ohms, watts, and volts is not lost on; I understand that when I adjust the volts I'm raising (or loweriing) the wattage output and that if I were in VW mode adjusting the wattage would in turn adjust the voltage needed to achieve that and how the ohm resistance fits in. The variable that I was missing was the airflow/ juice uptake part. That's why after a certain point I am getting dry hits, which makes absolute sense, because it's the same reason I don't use 100% VG in them anymore. Looks like I will be investing in new toppers if I want a better cooling effect and consequently larger and more flavorful vapor. Thank you all, you have been very informative and helpful as always.

If your thinking of trying sub Ohm off the shelf I can highly recomend a IPV minni 2- 70w and a artic sub tank both are reasonably priced and seem to be well made a durable. and for less than a hundred dollars you cant go wrong.

If your a DIY guy Id say a DNA 40 with a quality RDA or RTA designed with sub ohms in mind.

 

[SissySpike]

I'm just happy to be dumb.

Welcome to our club I use a mechanical at 30 watts or less
Knowing your toppers performance level is more important then turning your power knob

Rich thick billowey clouds, no 100 watt mod needed.


If you enjoy what you got then you got all you need

My mechs are getting dusty lately with the way regulation is allowing us to use lower resistance. But I do have my Morph2 tucked safely away in the glove box in case my regulated mod fails me or the Comies get us with a EMP attack!

 

[lefty23]

Yeah, for the most part I'm happy, I've been looking into buying some new tanks, but I have to really justify that to myself (and Mrs. lefty23, who is much harder to convince) but now I at least know what I'm really investing in and why. Definitely more than happy with my mod, and in general, but I'm always looking to get more out of my vaping experience, or at the very least understanding what would be the next step if I ever do want to take it and what the pros/cons of each. Again, thanks for all the input everyone.

 

[SissySpike]

Yeah, for the most part I'm happy, I've been looking into buying some new tanks, but I have to really justify that to myself (and Mrs. lefty23, who is much harder to convince) but now I at least know what I'm really investing in and why. Definitely more than happy with my mod, and in general, but I'm always looking to get more out of my vaping experience, or at the very least understanding what would be the next step if I ever do want to take it and what the pros/cons of each. Again, thanks for all the input everyone.

Juts Tell her your the man and put your foot down! When she gets done laughing begging and pleading helps along with fake interests in feminine Tv shows and movies untill you get what you want;-)

 

[DingerCPA]

Great thread

Lefty, I have spent the better part of a year at about 1.8ohms and about 9W. I use a lot of PT2s with airflow bases. I played with kayfuns last summer, but was failing miserably, until I figured that I needed to build coils differently for those than I rebuild for my PT2s.

Like Andria, I'm building kayfuns from 1.0-1.5 ohms, but still not running much more than 11-12W on those. I've also grabbed an RDA and a couple of Subtank Nanos. Even with the 0.5ohm coils, I'm rarely getting above 20-22W because it's just too warm for me. I've upped my VG in my juices, and am getting the fluffier clouds that are fun for fogging up the living room.

I will probably end up with a Subtank Mini, mostly to try the RBA deck. I have an iStick 50 and an iPV Mini2. Do I need all those watts? NO. I really had no business getting the Mini2 - I'll never push 70W on that thing - I don't have a good enough battery to let that happen. I'm thinking I'm going to live in the 0.8-1.8ohm range at 9-18W (depending on topper)

Can you crank watts? Sure, if you feel the need. Do you have to? No. I would seriously recommend the airflow base for your ProTank, though. I won't use a PT without one now.

 

[choochoogranny]

Just remember, Lefty23, the bigger vapor you see the more juice you use. I still use my ProTank 2's which I've rebuilt with 30 Kanthal and cellu cotton to anywhere from 1.6 to 1.8 ohms. The clouds and flavor rival that of the Nautilus at 9-11 watts. I do have a Tobh dripper which I shut down to two holes as I've only tried a single coil so far. The vapor and flavor the same as the others, but I dislike having to constantly drip every 10-15 minutes. Now I've got to clean the windows again every other day because of the vaping when it's cold out!

Edit to add: Agree with Dinger CPA about the airflow controllers which I leave at max. opening.

 

[wrice4]

If your thinking of trying sub Ohm off the shelf I can highly recomend a IPV minni 2- 70w and a artic sub tank both are reasonably priced and seem to be well made a durable.

+1 with the ipv2 mini 2, I love mine

or the subtank mini instead of the artic.

 

[tj99959]

I too vape at a fairly low voltage/wattage .... why .... because I like it that way.

chuckin' a cloud at 2.7v right now

 

[zoiDman]

I thought I understood the math but I guess not. Where is the second volts in your equation coming from? ...

Watts (W) can be defined as Amps (I) times Volts (V) => W = I x V

But the problem that a Vaper might have is not knowing what the Amps are.

From Ohm's Law, we know that Volts (V) is Amps (I) times Resistance (R) => V = I x R

If you throw a little Algebra on Ohm's Law, you can express Amps (I) as Volts (V) divided by Resistance (R) = > I = V / R

Now when you go to calculate Watts, and the Amps are Unknown, you can substitute Amps in the Equation for Voltage divided by Resistance.

So

W = I x V

=> W = (V/R) x V

=> W = (V/R) x (V/1)

=> W = (V x V) / R

And that is where the Second Volts comes from in the Watts Formula that we use.

 

[Ricky Spanish]

Watts (W) can be defined as Amps (I) times Volts (V) => W = I x V

But the problem that a Vaper might have is not knowing what the Amps are.

From Ohm's Law, we know that Volts (V) is Amps (I) times Resistance (R) => V = I x R

If you throw a little Algebra on Ohm's Law, you can express Amps (I) as Volts (V) divided by Resistance (R) = > I = V / R

Now when you go to calculate Watts, and the Amps are Unknown, you can substitute Amps in the Equation for Voltage divided by Resistance.

So

W = I x V

=> W = (V/R) x V

=> W = (V/R) x (V/1)

=> W = (V x V) / R

And that is where the Second Volts comes from in the Watts Formula that we use.

I don't see how Watts is derived from the equation I highlighted in red, the way it is written (V/R) x (V/I) is just (I) x (R) which is V.

I follow the rest of that though.

 

[zoiDman]

I don't see how Watts is derived from the equation I highlighted in red, the way it is written (V/R) x (V/I) is just (I) x (R) which is V.

I follow the rest of that though.

The Portion you highlighted in red is just the Multiplication of Two Factions.

The Product of Two Fractions is the Product of the Numerators divided by the Product of the Denominators.

(V/R) x (V/1)

=> (V x V) / (R x 1)

=> (V x V) / R

So W = (V x V) / R

 

[Ricky Spanish]

The Portion you highlighted in red is just the Multiplication of Two Factions.

The Product of Two Fractions is the Product of the Numerators divided by the Product of the Denominators.

(V/R) x (V/1)

=> (V x V) / (R x 1)

=> (V x V) / R

So W = (V x V) / R

Thanks, I understand the above in red but aren't the order of operations (PEMDAS) being skirted?

Items in Parentheses take precedence.

By the way, I'm just trying to understand I'm not questioning your knowledge.

 

[zoiDman]

Thanks, I understand the above in red but aren't the order of operations (PEMDAS) being skirted?

Items in Parentheses take precedence.

By the way, I'm just trying to understand I'm not questioning your knowledge.

True. The Parentheses in this case are more for Clarity of Terms. Than for Operand Order of Operations.

Since the Only Operation being performed is Multiplication (there is No Such thing as "Division" - LOL) , and since Multiplication is Associative, Parentheses in this case are Not Very Meaningful.

But they do keep the Terms of the Substituted Formula clean. So I used them.

 

[WharfRat1976]

 

[Ricky Spanish]

True. The Parentheses in this case are more for Clarity of Terms. Than for Operand Order of Operations.

Since the Only Operation being performed is Multiplication (there is No Such thing as "Division" - LOL) , and since Multiplication is Associative, Parentheses in this case are Not Very Meaningful.

But they do keep the Terms of the Substituted Formula clean. So I used them.

Got it, thanks for explaining. I appreciate it.

 

[zoiDman]

Got it, thanks for explaining. I appreciate it.

No Problem.

 

[lefty23]

How do you guys feel about the Aspire Nautilus? They're on sale where I get a lot of my hardware. I've heard a lot of good things, they have a built-in airflow control system which seems like it could help. The only reason I'm thinking about moving into higher volts/watts is because I get the most flavorful hits right before the dry ones. So I know I would enjoy my vaping more if I could just use even a little more power without having wicking/airflow issues, both of which seem very prominent in the protanks. Like I said, I had to stop using 100% VG because they won't wick at all with it. I appreciate the suggestions you've already made, I'm actually shopping for tanks online right now.

 

[lefty23]

I'm looking at the kanger airflow controllers (I actually added them to my cart the last I order I placed) but I didn't get them because it says they work with protank 2 and 3, but doesn't say anything about working with the original model. Do you guys know if they will work with basic protanks? They also have a generic airflow controller, and it lists a bunch of tanks it works with, but it doesn't say it will work with my protanks.

 

[lefty23]

So I just ordered 2 5ml Nautilus tanks, 2 generic tank airflow controllers (the kanger ones definitely only work with PT2, PT3, and Aero), and 2 replacement BVC coils for the Nautilus tanks. Wish me luck. Based on the price I'm hoping those coils have a serious lifespan. Very excited to try these out.