Iatty questions
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Hmm.
Can't figure out the leaking. It's leaking from the tank and through the 520 connection at the bottom.
Any advices? There are actually not a ton of videos on this wonderful device online for some reason. I've seen them all.
Can't figure out the leaking. It's leaking from the tank and through the 520 connection at the bottom.
Any advices? There are actually not a ton of videos on this wonderful device online for some reason. I've seen them all.
I was missing the doubles from under the ceramic. I had some extra and added them, but still have leaking.
I love these and am going to figure it out if its the last thing I do.
It seems like most of the issue is coming from the bottom.
I've taken it apart and redone it several times, but still have juice escaping.
I've taken it apart and redone it several times, but still have juice escaping.
I added a small o'ring around the posative pin on my iAtty. Don't remember exact size but I would guess around 3x2 ish. Juice can leak down the threads between the plastic and the base. With this o'ring the only leaking I ever got was from over wicking. I have had this problem on all of my GG rebuildables though. If I leave the juice controll open to much without vaping juice can drip down the center pin from the wick. It isn't much usually only a couple drops a day depending on weather changes. But when the outside pressure gets higher it could sometimes cause a little more.
what kind of wick you put there ob? You need at least 2,5 mm fat wick
A couple things I noticed with ours.
- Your neg wrap should complete a full rotation around the bottom delrin clockwise (when you connect 510 base, it doesn't move wire). If you are using the newer premade wires, is is almost not possible. Try self made wire and leave enough of a leg. Come down the cut channel, go all the way around and go back up the same channel. Otherwise that minuscule wire seems to leave a slight enough gap between base of bottom delrin and 510 base. And screw the bottom delrin tight to 510 base.
-Slip a small oring on the positive post before mounting in 510 base. I don't think it's photographed in the diagram.
- if you don't have a tight seam between the top cap and tank, then use an oring. It's generally not needed, but some replacement tanks/caps don't seam tight and that seems to cause a very slight air pressure difference.
- when placing the top cap on, screw the top cap and then separately screw the MP on. Don't do both at once.
- we also use dual 3mm wick at the ceramic (see jojo's photo). Single down the channel.
Some of these you may already do, I just listed some key findings.
- Your neg wrap should complete a full rotation around the bottom delrin clockwise (when you connect 510 base, it doesn't move wire). If you are using the newer premade wires, is is almost not possible. Try self made wire and leave enough of a leg. Come down the cut channel, go all the way around and go back up the same channel. Otherwise that minuscule wire seems to leave a slight enough gap between base of bottom delrin and 510 base. And screw the bottom delrin tight to 510 base.
-Slip a small oring on the positive post before mounting in 510 base. I don't think it's photographed in the diagram.
- if you don't have a tight seam between the top cap and tank, then use an oring. It's generally not needed, but some replacement tanks/caps don't seam tight and that seems to cause a very slight air pressure difference.
- when placing the top cap on, screw the top cap and then separately screw the MP on. Don't do both at once.
- we also use dual 3mm wick at the ceramic (see jojo's photo). Single down the channel.
Some of these you may already do, I just listed some key findings.
Hey OB i'm actually free this evening. if you want to hit me up on skype Ill take you under my wing and show you what ya got to do.
Just saw your post bish. I'll hit you up and we can figure out a time.
Much thanks my friend!
Much thanks my friend!
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