I grabbed 3550 and 3441 because 3551 was already gone (thanks to youFer god's sake, somebody grab [HASHTAG]#3551[/HASHTAG] !!!!! That thing has awesome mod written all over it!!
EDIT: nevermind.......brrraaaaAAAAP
)I'm thinkin' maybe we should try this again? . . . . and you kids should behave yourselves
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I was thinking about something along those lines and I like what you've done. In fact when the whole assembly becomes a bit smaller and closer to the top it will look even better I think. My idea was along the same lines but the button I was thinking of has more of an overhang so it hides more of the empty space behind the switch and looks bulkier.
I was also thinking to ask you if it's feasible to make a recess for the spring plate under the atty because I see that the spring plate sits on the wood and I foresee that with time the wood finish under the spring plate will get damaged opening possible issues with liquid absorption. Is it possible to have the spring plate slightly recessed so a) it can't move left-right and b) have a bit more protection of the finish since it's restricted movement will help protect the finish. The way it is it seems that everytime you change atty you have to align the spring plate but if it's recessed it will self center if you know what I mean. The recess could be done with a router jig fairly easily.
Truth of the matter is that the more this new mod sinks in the more I like it. It's certainly an acquired taste and if as you say is so convenient in it's use I see peeps getting used to this real quick.
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I also have to say (for the benefit of Mr Froggy) that I've been researching sources for quality stabilized wood for well over a year now. I've bought from many vendors and have pretty much found the top suppliers of stabilized quality pieces on the net. I can safely say that not a single other supplier comes even close to the quality Mark has.
Froggy you rock
thank you sir.
Froggy you rock
thank you sir.
I love that bee wood button top. That and the addition of the lower profile will give it a much more polished/finished look.
I like the way you think captain. The recess also will allow hiding the metal and having only a suitable amount visible. Making the edge of the button longer downward also will protect the silver contacts and make them less visible.
I was thinking about something along those lines and I like what you've done. In fact when the whole assembly becomes a bit smaller and closer to the top it will look even better I think. My idea was along the same lines but the button I was thinking of has more of an overhang so it hides more of the empty space behind the switch and looks bulkier.
I was also thinking to ask you if it's feasible to make a recess for the spring plate under the atty because I see that the spring plate sits on the wood and I foresee that with time the wood finish under the spring plate will get damaged opening possible issues with liquid absorption. Is it possible to have the spring plate slightly recessed so a) it can't move left-right and b) have a bit more protection of the finish since it's restricted movement will help protect the finish. The way it is it seems that everytime you change atty you have to align the spring plate but if it's recessed it will self center if you know what I mean. The recess could be done with a router jig fairly easily.
Truth of the matter is that the more this new mod sinks in the more I like it. It's certainly an acquired taste and if as you say is so convenient in it's use I see peeps getting used to this real quick.
Lets see what the bee has to say.
Yeah, I've been considering the "recess" concept all along. There's a couple main reasons why I shy away from it. We still have a situation where these mechanical parts are fabricated by me, by hand, one at a time. I don't have a massive "BeCu Punch" with which to knock out exact same switch pieces every single time. So, each recess in each tiny cap would have to be a custom marquetry job. The depth of that marquetry would have to be, basically, amazingly precise. It would also form a juice well . . . it would create a guaranteed mess. It would capture the juice and hold it there, and create more liquid damage to the topcap than pretty much any other configuration. There's so much more to be said for a nice flat surface on so many levels. The CA application is a saturating one (except on blanks which are so dense and so loaded with stabilizer that it's not possible or necessary). The switch plate is easy enough to manipulate, and doesn't move around once the atty is cinched down. There will be some scratching of the surface; but that will be always hidden by the plate that scratched it. The dead-nuts flushed 510 connector flange will act as a stop: the BeCu won't just keep digging deeper into the topcap until it reaches China (or, in your case, Aal_, reaches the Pacific Ocean, off the coast of New Zealand).
I'm still thinking about whether there is need of a "solution", and, if so, what would be best. Perhaps a coating on the bottom of the switch plate itself (hah! did y'all think of that?). Perhaps a 510 connector with a larger diameter flange/face, and the Becu plate would be just a hair undersized in relation to that. Perhaps a switch plate that is very carefully smoothed and all edges thoroughly deburred and eased is enough. Marquetry is not the go-to solution.
the creative thoughts and suggestions are golden, and very much appreciated, always welcome.
I'm still thinking about whether there is need of a "solution", and, if so, what would be best. Perhaps a coating on the bottom of the switch plate itself (hah! did y'all think of that?). Perhaps a 510 connector with a larger diameter flange/face, and the Becu plate would be just a hair undersized in relation to that. Perhaps a switch plate that is very carefully smoothed and all edges thoroughly deburred and eased is enough. Marquetry is not the go-to solution.
the creative thoughts and suggestions are golden, and very much appreciated, always welcome.
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I figured I'd chime in here, my first thought was what could be done with the button as well. The more I looked at it, the more I appreciated the genius and styling. Ease of replacement, ease of cleaning and a nice contrast to the wood which really sets it off. I'm all in [2 thumbs up with a big smile]
Here's some pics of the #3551 Rosewood I snagged. It will be available to the first person who wants it for a dibi↔ibid, Dis-Dat . .. for the new mod design. ( . . . . Cappy S ?. . . . )
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Pics don't show but id still take it in a heart beat!
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Now I see them..... Wow great great piece.... So who can take it, next in line or anyone. If anyone I'll take that for sure [emoji12]
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's some pics of the [HASHTAG]#3551[/HASHTAG] Rosewood I snagged. It will be available to the first person who wants it for a dibi↔ibid, Dis-Dat . .. for the new mod design. ( . . . . Cappy S . . . . )
If I buy materials on spec, it makes me a little nervous. It can bite me in two ways: one is if I blow it out when working it (normally, that loss would be suffered by the unfortunate person who took on the risk of custom materials) and, two is if time passes and I can't keep producing mods for whatever reason, I don't want to be left holding a truckload of expensive blanks. So, if/when I buy special blanks on spec, they will go to the first/nextest person on the list who wants it. If I can swing it, I would very much like to secretly buy and fabricate the occasional piece on spec, and disclose it as a finished mod. I might be able to do more of that with this new style of "ibid" (dibi↔ibid) mod.
In this instance, Steve was the first to speak for the Rosewood Blank, and he's one of my coupl'a hand selected beta-testers in the initial batch of cookies.
BTW I think you should call it dibidat as someone suggested
Peter I thought about the problem of having a recess and how it may act as a juice well but in all honesty we'll have to clean the mod from liquid/condensation anyway even if it doesn't have that recess which results in removing the atty every now and then because liquid can get under that too.
The recess will also allow the Nuppin (and any atty) to sit flush as well. Anyway not a big issue just some initial thoughts/ideas. I do however agree that if you plan in future to make the spring plate yourself and not have it mass produced by a press it's a serious issue getting the fit right. I would think though that outsourcing that switch plate will be a major time saver and it's probably a cost you could offset due to increase in production.
Peter I thought about the problem of having a recess and how it may act as a juice well but in all honesty we'll have to clean the mod from liquid/condensation anyway even if it doesn't have that recess which results in removing the atty every now and then because liquid can get under that too.
The recess will also allow the Nuppin (and any atty) to sit flush as well. Anyway not a big issue just some initial thoughts/ideas. I do however agree that if you plan in future to make the spring plate yourself and not have it mass produced by a press it's a serious issue getting the fit right. I would think though that outsourcing that switch plate will be a major time saver and it's probably a cost you could offset due to increase in production.
Big congrats CaptSteve great scoop [emoji106][emoji106]
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Thanks Peter, you just made my day
"Ladies and Gentlemen this is your captain speaking, please fasten your seatbelts as we're about to do a victory roll"
"Ladies and Gentlemen this is your captain speaking, please fasten your seatbelts as we're about to do a victory roll"
The problem with getting them pressed, I should think, is that no one will touch an order of a couple hundred units. This very design change evidences the fact that it doesn't make sense for me to order materials in the 1,000 units range. Not to mention, that having one part mass-produced while most of the other parts are not, doesn't really speed things up much, and is offset by the #hours killed into finding that shop, setting up that relationship, establishing all specifications and solid models, QC-ing prototypes, yada, . . . (and that's all if the shop does the job right). I'm totally not averse to having those parts made elsewhere, I just think it's a rabbit hole for a single part (if even possible). Lemme know if you have a source.
Let me look into it some. I would also think that making a forming tool from steel for a small hand operated press is a relatively easy job. The shape of the spring plate is very simple especially if the press doesn't open the holes.
"ibid"?
How bout "ibidibi" ?
Or, the beeswitch
Beeswitch
Dibeeswitch
Dabeeswitch
Debeeswitch
DeeBeeSwitch
Or the beatchin " Switchin' "
OK-OK, I give up... (For now)
.... 
Don't know if you considered this Peter, or if the metal is too thick to punch, but since you mention punching/pressed, here's a place that makes custom die's so you just punch your own (I'm sure there's many other places to get a custom die too):
Ironworkers | custom punches & dies | metal punch | Scotchman Industries
This is for thinner punching, the toughest being wire mesh, but the sheet metal the piece is made of is soft copper or silver right? You can cut those with metal shears, so these little machines may work too:
GrandeMARK 2 Roller Die Cutting Machine | AccuCut Craft
If you are hand shaping each little metal piece... that really increases the time and cost (and diminishes the fun factor but quick, since we all know your favorite is the beautiful wood parts)
.
Also, if you get a punching machine, there's no end to the type of die you can have custom made for the internals... like the aluminum/copper top sandwich plate, which you'd still have to sand down to fit the custom bodies... but would give you a blank to start from.
I thought you already had one for the metal parts on the dibi, this may be a huge time saver for you for all flat mod parts. I wonder if you can punch your own atomizer connector (at least punch us some fuses) ?
I thought you already had one for the metal parts on the dibi, this may be a huge time saver for you for all flat mod parts. I wonder if you can punch your own atomizer connector (at least punch us some fuses
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