I'm thinkin' maybe we should try this again? . . . . and you kids should behave yourselves

[penguiness]

speaking of putting sauce on stuff and having something come of it .. . .

I started applying finish to the mods yestidee and am aiming to hit the balance of them today (twodee?) There are some pretty cool looking specimens in this bunch, very cool stuff! Can't wait to show y'all . . . .

( )

I should mention also, too, tho, that: I'm doing things in a little bit different order here. As some of the mods are receiving an oil finish and some an oil-under-CA, and seeing as how the internals aren't as deeply integrated into the body structure as with the classic design, I figured I'd get all the bodies/caps to where I could lay a nice, deep, penetrating coat of finish on them and then let them all rest up and cure out whilst I turn my attentions to internals and sundry parts. So, after today/tomorrow (2-dee/Tamari), I'll be getting into that. Hoping the internals won't take too long; but I've never done a batch of these before. (So, cross fingers that that goes well, please ) It's not about whether they can be made, or whether they work. It's about whether making a batch of them and shooting for predictable sameness in materials manipulation and results . .. . whether that is as conceived. (prototype parts can be flukes, happy accidents, and one doesn't know if that's the case until one tries consistent fabrication on a slightly larger scale)

Crossing fingers that all goes as well as you hope it will.

 

[RobbieVape]

speaking of putting sauce on stuff and having something come of it .. . .

I started applying finish to the mods yestidee and am aiming to hit the balance of them today (twodee?) There are some pretty cool looking specimens in this bunch, very cool stuff! Can't wait to show y'all . . . .

( )

I should mention also, too, tho, that: I'm doing things in a little bit different order here. As some of the mods are receiving an oil finish and some an oil-under-CA, and seeing as how the internals aren't as deeply integrated into the body structure as with the classic design, I figured I'd get all the bodies/caps to where I could lay a nice, deep, penetrating coat of finish on them and then let them all rest up and cure out whilst I turn my attentions to internals and sundry parts. So, after today/tomorrow (2-dee/Tamari), I'll be getting into that. Hoping the internals won't take too long; but I've never done a batch of these before. (So, cross fingers that that goes well, please ) It's not about whether they can be made, or whether they work. It's about whether making a batch of them and shooting for predictable sameness in materials manipulation and results . .. . whether that is as conceived. (prototype parts can be flukes, happy accidents, and one doesn't know if that's the case until one tries consistent fabrication on a slightly larger scale)

This batch definitely seems to be coming along quicker, great news for those like myself that are on a long waiting list [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CaptSteve]

Oil under CA ???? WOW !! never thought of that one Peter.

 

[pdib]

Oil under CA ???? WOW !! never thought of that one Peter.

well, you'll be squeezin' it soon enough. I had always saturated with SeaFin (before CA) on materials like my Seward Park Maple for strength, looks and some added stability. As I've gotten to know some of these other woods better, I've come to realize that some of them are a real PITA when it comes to CA finish. They can be overpowered; but it's frustrating and time consuming. Two examples are Rosewood burl (oily) and blue or black dyed stabilized woods. The CA will creep and react in weird ways until there's enough layers to form a chemical barrier. So, starting with the dna shells I just made, I've started applying SeaFin or Benite more often for a number of reasons: blue/black dye, oily/reactive, and strength/stability.

I had experimented, early on in this venture, with SeaFin under CA, and found it to be a very good bond between the two. So, I know that's not going to be an issue. SeaFin is more intense (resins), and I use that when color isn't an issue (when the darkening/ambering quality of the finish is a boon to the overall look, or when it's not detrimental and the added build of resins is desirable). Benite is SeaFin's gentler cousin, and doesn't impart ambering tones. I'm using that where colors are not to be messed with. (we wouldn't want to "amber" a blue tone) Some materials, like Mundy's white stabilized Oregon Maple Burl, are super-well stabilized, dense, and take CA real well. So, his mod won't see any oil at all, lest it darken or yellow or amber the "white" look.

 

[CaptSteve]

I would have thought that the oil inhibits somewhat the bond between wood/CA frankly. I must try this. BTW how do you apply the CA? I used to use a brush but have had much better results just rubbing it in by hand (gloved hand obviously).

Can't wait to do some serious squeezin' of that li'l pinch

 

[damselle]

So are all of the next batch to be mini's P?

 

[pdib]

yes'm, D.

 

[pdib]

I would have thought that the oil inhibits somewhat the bond between wood/CA frankly.

The SeaFin is designed to penetrate/wick very deeply and then get pretty dang hard. It gets a heck of a lot deeper into the wood than the CA does. I CA the interiors (tubes) before I cut the squonk hole; and, when I cut the squonk hole away, I can see exactly how deep the CA has penetrated (not much). It forms an excellent barrier on the surface tho. So, if the SeaFin penetrates 1/8 - 1/4" and hardens and forms a monster bond with the wood, and then the CA forms a solid bond to the cured SeaFin . . . . .

 

[turbocad6]

wow you think it really gets 1/8"-1/4" into the wood? and that's brushing on a few coats? that sounds pretty cool. what I did on the last mod I made was to fill a cup with tung oil and then submerge the mod for 15-20 minutes then buff and repeat to try and get deeper penetration but I still would guess it to be nowhere near that kind of penitration

 

[pdib]

wow you think it really gets 1/8"-1/4" into the wood? and that's brushing on a few coats? that sounds pretty cool. what I did on the last mod I made was to fill a cup with tung oil and then submerge the mod for 15-20 minutes then buff and repeat to try and get deeper penetration but I still would guess it to be nowhere near that kind of penitration

It depends a lot on the type of wood and on how fine it's been sanded. Seems like once you cross the 400 grit line on the dry wood, it starts to limit penetration quite a bit. I had a slice (off-cut) of some of the stabilized wood in this run that was about 3/16" thick. It was straight off the saw (completely unsanded). I loaded a q-tip with Benite and swabbed 2 lines on it (couple dips of the q-tip, couple slow swipes) . . .. I was setting up a comparison to see how much the Benite might change the color of that particular piece. Later, I coated with CA for that comparison of Benite VS dry. The Benite was seeping out the other side of the 3/16" thick piece in less than a minute. It didn't soak through with the same footprint as the top; but it was coming out the other side in places, and I could see on the edges that it was pretty thoroughly saturated most of the way through. And I wasn't trying to saturate, I was just trying to wet it for looks.

If I were to sand something dense and/or oily to 2,000 grit, I doubt it would absorb at all. So, it's a balance of material, process and desired outcome. Something as dense and oily as a Rosewood Burl doesn't really need gung-ho saturation and doesn't really take it either. The Maple Burl drinks it up pretty heavily though.

Oh, and it's not "brushing on a few coats" . It's loading down the surface with a pool of the stuff and keeping it wet/pooling for up to 15 minutes. Whatever gets absorbed is immediately replaced by loading more finish onto the surface until it's pooling again, and the wood drinks as much as it can take. With some woods (like the SPMap), I can't keep up with how fast it drinks it . . . I can't ladle it on fast enough; but I keep it good and wet and let it drink as much as it wants.

 

[turbocad6]

yeah I never thought of a high polish not penetrating as much as a rougher surface would, I usually start oiling when it's already polished, might be an advantage to start oiling before moving up to the finer grits, def gonna try that

 

[pdib]

HAVE A HAPPY (and safe, I guess) FOURTH OF JULY, my friends!!

 

[Rossum]

Fourth of July PSA:

NO:

YES:

 

[Doffy]

where did you find an autumn leaf in summer?

 

[custom-classic]

Absolutely gorgeous, Pete!!!
And Happy Independence Day!!!

 

[damselle]

You too Peter!

 

[unsure]

 

[2pak2zero]

where did you find an autumn leaf in summer?

He's a wood whisperer. He can make trees hibernate on command.

 

[penguiness]

LOL, 2pak!

 

[Raynman]

Fourth of July PSA:

NO:

YES:

Just had to show off your Evil Balls didn't ya?