so the mechanics of this.. Positive battery is always hooked live, ground is always touching batter ground, you depress the button and rather then connecting to battery ground it connects to atomizer ground so the "spark" if there was one would happen at the atty not the battery. Is this an accurate account? Also if you put the battery in opposite way the same would happen except maybe a little shocking
So it's an interesting concept my questions would be, how easy would it be to apply pressure and get that strip out of shape causing it to auto fire?
Well, I won't go too far into "how it works", as it's not very popular with folks, it seems. But I will say that, with ALL mods one leg of the circuit is "always hooked live" (depends on which way you put the battery in, as to whether you call it + or- ). With all mech mods, there's a single point in the other leg where something isn't touching, and you make it touch. I moved that point ~1/2" away from the actual battery to create a better make/break contact point; but in every other
sense, same diff. The last bit of the circuit's neg leg usually runs to the body of the 510 connector (just under the atty). In this case, it seats on the top of the 510 and contacts the base of the atty. Again for safety/practical purposes, same diff. For efficient, hard hitting electrical contact, better.
Let's separate a couple things in discussing the switch, please (everyone). I won't go too far into defending it, but I'll set you all straight on a couple things regardless.
1) Aesthetics: you don't like it, fine. (however, the other three points lead me to want to alter/add refine rather than delete)
2) Efficiency/Electical Value: This is the best switch I've ever used. Hands down. Nothing to discuss. The mod hits HARD! Yet to prove out; but the silver/silver contact will probably stay clean and stay hitting hard longer than any other mech contact out there.
3) Comfort: Same as any other top-fire mech button. Same action, same range of pressure required. Because of it's height, in relation to distance from edge of mod top, you never touch the edges. Any comfort niggles can be resolved by minor tweaks.
4) "Safety": It's the same as any other button. The only thing that's going to fire it is the same amount of downward pressure as required with any other top mounted mech switch. I'm using it here, kids. I'm testing it. I'm inventing/testing stupid scenarios. It LOOKS different; it doesn't ACT different. Snagging: yes, if you're in the habit of laterally dragging the top of your mod through . . . . . . . . what? a vat of loose yarn? Again the height of the switch in relation to it's distance from the edge makes it almost impossible to "snag" anything. IT'S NOT GOING TO SNAG OR AUTOFIRE BECAUSE THE PICTURES MAKE YOU IMAGINE IT WILL. Yes, tho, it's more likely to autofire if you pack it in a bag full of loose nickels and bits of nails and wire. Maybe avoid doing that.
Long→short. I'm not going to present something to you that isn't reasonable, reliable, and doesn't act like you'd expect "a good one" to act like. Looking at pictures can be misleading. HOWEVER, the aesthetic appeal (or lack thereof) is duly noted, and I'll mess around with some ideas I've got for blending this dynamic with more of a traditional/finished look (as I have time, secondary to finishing run#9). Meantime, I think I'm going to distribute the first handful (the "early adopters' " run) pretty much as is, so that folks can actually USE the switch, and test out it's physical, electrical, comfort characteristics. It can be so easily replaced as new versions develop. IF the switch proves out (in the hands of others), THEN we'll tackle the aesthetic front.
