im using an IPV2 with sony VTC4 and upgrading to sony VTC5, need some battery advice

[Stinkytofus]

1. i noticed people talk a lot about "batteries coming off the charger at 4.2V, and as you use it it will go to 3.7-3.8 and stay there for a bit, when it hits 3.6 or lower you will have to charge it", my ipv2 when i set it to certain wattages such as 7watts, the volts will read 3.7v (i guess this has nothing to do with the battery since the higher wattage i go the higher this number goes, topping out at 8.5v @ 50watts) and the ohms will read 1.9ohms, then there is a battery indicator on the side, from what i have read...
a. you cannot tell the V of the battery unless you check it manually?
b. the battery indicator is an indication of how much battery life is left i assume...
c. so i just need to check how much battery i have left from the battery level and NOT worry about the voltage on my battery

2. i've also seen some pictures of people blowing their hands up...
in what scenarios will this happen with my ipv2?
1. i am currently vaping an aspire nautilus at 7 watts (uses less juice, more runtime, i get excellent vapor production from my 90% vg & 10% pg diy juice), down the line i am expecting to do RDA and RBA's and build my own coils, i assume i will have to check the ohm of my build and if my battery can handle it before i fire it at certain wattage settings?
2. how can i avoid blowing my battery up (and my face) what are all the possible scenarios that i can take precautions for to vape safely??


thanks !

 

[Baditude]

I'm not particularly familiar with the iPV2, so I'm not aware of how it measures battery life or displays voltage readings. Most regulated mods have a voltage meter mode that you can use to know what the battery voltage is at any given moment. It will read 4.1 v - 4.2 v for a fresh charged battery. As the battery is drained, the volts will fall to around 3.4 volts at which point the regulated mod will refuse to fire to prevent over-discharge of the battery. This refusal to fire a low charge on a battery is part of a regulated mod's "protective circuitry" features, which of course a mechanical mod will not have.

Batteries contain a lot of stored energy in them. If they are abused from improper use they can go into failure - also called thermal runaway. A chemical chain reaction which can not be stopped once it has begun. A battery gets VERY HOT and goes into a meltdown mode - extremely hot gas is released, toxic chemicals are vented and possibly flames, and has some potential for the battery or the mechanical mod to explode.

The reason that regulated mods are suggested to novice vapers instead of mechanical mods is the aforementioned "protective circuitry". A mechanical mod is basically just a battery holder and a battery - no microprocessor on board and no protection against shorts, over-discharging a battery, or pushing a battery too hard to the point of thermal runaway.

The regulated mod has protective circuitry features against over-discharge of the battery, recognizing a short in the setup and refusing to fire, timed auto-cutoff, over-heating protection, etc. It will be nearly impossible for a battery to vent or explode in a regulated mod because the artifical intelligence will shut down the mod before things get out of hand and dangerous.

So, since your iPV2 is a regulated mod, you will be able to vape quite safely.

 

[milescadre]

I'm not particularly familiar with the iPV2, so I'm not aware of how it measures battery life or displays voltage readings. Most regulated mods have a voltage meter mode that you can use to know what the battery voltage is at any given moment. It will read 4.1 v - 4.2 v for a fresh charged battery. As the battery is drained, the volts will fall to around 3.4 volts at which point the regulated mod will refuse to fire to prevent over-discharge of the battery. This refusal to fire a low charge on a battery is part of a regulated mod's "protective circuitry" features, which of course a mechanical mod will not have.

Batteries contain a lot of stored energy in them. If they are abused from improper use they can go into failure - also called thermal runaway. A chemical chain reaction which can not be stopped once it has begun. A battery gets VERY HOT and goes into a meltdown mode - extremely hot gas is released, toxic chemicals are vented and possibly flames, and has some potential for the battery or the mechanical mod to explode.

The reason that regulated mods are suggested to novice vapers instead of mechanical mods is the aforementioned "protective circuitry". A mechanical mod is basically just a battery holder and a battery - no microprocessor on board and no protection against shorts, over-discharging a battery, or pushing a battery too hard to the point of thermal runaway.

The regulated mod has protective circuitry features against over-discharge of the battery, recognizing a short in the setup and refusing to fire, timed auto-cutoff, over-heating protection, etc. It will be nearly impossible for a battery to vent or explode in a regulated mod because the artifical intelligence will shut down the mod before things get out of hand and dangerous.

So, since your iPV2 is a regulated mod, you will be able to vape quite safely.

the iPV2 uses the SX 330 chip. It will read the resistance of the atty, and adjust the voltage accordingly (which is what you see). The battery indicator is your battery gauge.

ITs very similar to a DNA setup.

The only thing is, the SX330 doesnt step down, so if your battery is at 4.2v, even tho it says like 3.5 v, itll fire at 4.2 as if passing through.

 

[Daddy dan123]

Your little battery on the screen is the battery meter. It goes down after use and you can see it go down. While you're pressing the fire button you will notice it drop lower and that is the voltage loss I think they call it lol. Or voltage drop. But yes just look at that little battery on your screen on the far right hand side. I usually charge mine when it gets half way or little lower. They say you can't tell when the battery is dying like you can on a mech cuz but I can. Like when you get a fresh battery in a mech and after the battery gets to about 3.8 you notice it hits a little less harder than 3.9-4.2 ish. Since it's regulated i guess it should be the same hot the entire life of the battery but on mine at least I can tell a diff. And I was using my ipv2 at around 1.15 ohms and 25-30 watts depending on juice flavor. But today I thought hmmm ima step my ohms up and all my drippers are now 1.4-1.6 and even at 35-40 watts I don't care for it. I really don't like wrapping coils so now I have to redo all my coils and bring them a tad lower ugh lol. But yes it's use that battery symbol on the far right to gauge your battery life sorry for the really long ramble lol and good luck

 

[Daddy dan123]

Battery sag that's what I was trying to think of lol

 

[Froth]

You're vaping about as safely as possible, regulated mod with batteries well above the power limit. Kudos to you for doing things the right way, and still checking to make sure you're safe!

 

[realsis]

I have the ipv2 50 watt as well and just placed my pre order for my ipv3 150 watt from watts up. On my ipv2 I'm using Sony vtc4 batteries as well. When my ipv3 arrives I will be using the two sony vtc5 genuine sony batteries. It's important to know how to spot fake sony batteries from genuine sony batteries . If you google the subject they will have a photo comparisons of the genuine vrs. Fake and what to look for to ensure your not buying fakes. I think as long as your batteries are genuine you should be just fine.