In need of an education

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Ok, I've been vaping for about 6 months. Gotten into mixing my juice and making my own coils for Protank and others. Luvin it. Using a Vamo V7 30w and ego's. Coils from 1 to 2ohms. Juice at various mixtures; 50/50-40/60-30/70
When I go above about 12w, I get very harsh hit and/or burnt taste. Some juices I have to vape at 4-5w.
Looking at the "vape charts" I see that 6-8w is the "sweet spot", and I find this is true.
My question is this: How are people vaping at high watts and not getting this effect? I mean .5ohm @ 40/50/90 watts. I just don't get it!
Will someone explain?
 

supertrunker

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The sweet spot depends on each individual and also their equipment. I run mechanical mods and i make coils at less than 0.5Ω typically.

The reason i like them is that i have a massive amount of air running at the coils thru massive airhole cutouts in the atty. That cools the vape somewhat, but in any case, i vape at about 80W for the heat.

What i end up with is a medium to warm vape and a lot of cloud if i wish. It's very different to the restricted airflow you get with your tank atties.

Rebuilding Kanger coils is what I'm trying to do right now. Any quick suggestions/secrets? Use cotton wick.

T
 

dcfluegel

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Tanks with better airflow?



Rebuilding Kanger coils is what I'm trying to do right now. Any quick suggestions/secrets?
rebuilding the horizontals or verticals? i have been doing vertical builds in the old horizontal coil body... couple of decent vids out there on doing it
 

Darth Omerta

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Those people are likely using rebuildable tank atomizers (RTAs) or rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDAs) and doing some sort of coil build that requires more power to heat up the amount of metal they have in the build.

For example, if you were to wrap straight 28 guage kanthal in a dual coil build to create a .5 ohm resistance for your atomizer, you might find that your sweet spot is somewhere in the 30-35 watt range(estimating for the sake of this explanation, I use mechs so I calculate my watts based on the build). If I wanted to say twist the kanthal before coiling it up then I am reducing the total ohms per coil by just over half. That means to produce a .5 ohm dual coil I must use bigger coils/more wire. That should require that my wattage be upped accordingly. Then there are Clapton coils. Thats where you take a really thick length of kanthal and twist a really thin length around it(kinda looks like a guitar string). Im not sure how this affects the ohms mathematically(I havent built them yet) but I know that it reduces the resistance and requires even more power to heat them up quickly enough to produce a good vape.

There are more factors that can require more power but thats the main one that I know of.
 

NoFumus

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rebuilding the horizontals or verticals? i have been doing vertical builds in the old horizontal coil body... couple of decent vids out there on doing it


Verticals. I haven't tried for a while but I have been semi-successful with the Kanger coils. Funky taste though (not quite burned, more like savory) that tell me I've got the amount of wicking wrong.

I've drawn a line in the sand, and am refusing to buy any more coils, which kinda leaves me with one tank until I can rebuild either the kanger or the aspire BVC coils.
 

NoFumus

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I switch between cotton bacon and organic cotton. To me there is almost no difference between the 2 as far as quality is concerned but I actually find the plain old organic cotton to be easier to work with!

I hope other material is easier. I've found it difficult to pull of a piece of any consistent width. I can reshape it to an extend, but it's not great. I wonder, too, about those little pills throughout.

Next time I get supplies I'm going to try the cotton in sheets, if for no other reason than Rip Trippers specifically measures his out and I could start with those same dimensions.
 
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supertrunker

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Im not sure how this affects the ohms mathematically(I havent built them yet)

What happens is that the elemental force, we can call that electricity for simplicity, flows thru the big fat cable in the middle. So for calculation purposes, if you make say a 26g/32g Clapton, you can treat it as if it were a 26g coil.
The readings are identical. What the outer wire provides is a kind of radiator effect and a place where juice can hide and heat up. That is what gives it the flavour and it's pretty good, but they take a bit of breaking in.

T
 

Darth Omerta

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What happens is that the elemental force, we can call that electricity for simplicity, flows thru the big fat cable in the middle. So for calculation purposes, if you make say a 26g/32g Clapton, you can treat it as if it were a 26g coil.
The readings are identical. What the outer wire provides is a kind of radiator effect and a place where juice can hide and heat up. That is what gives it the flavour and it's pretty good, but they take a bit of breaking in.

T

Cool, so the external wire does not affect the total ohms of build in any way? Is it the same for fused claptons?
 

dcfluegel

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I hope other material is easier. I've found it difficult to pull of a piece of any consistent width. I can reshape it to an extend, but it's not great. I wonder, too, about those little pills throughout.

Next time I get supplies I'm going to try the cotton in sheets, if for no other reason than Rip Trippers specifically measures his out and I could start with those same dimensions.
check out somewhere like sephora - can get a big pack of the koh gen do for like $14 - enough to last for a LONG time...
 

supertrunker

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Cool, so the external wire does not affect the total ohms of build in any way? Is it the same for fused claptons?

Yup.

So it makes calculating coil resistance a lot easier, because you just ignore the outers. However....they DO obviously affect the heating time of your coil. The evil stepmother of coils.

T
 
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Darth Omerta

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Yup.

So it makes calculating coil resistance a lot easier, because you just ignore the outers. However....they DO obviously affect the heating time of your coil. The evil stepmother of coils.

T

That much I knew. Its the reason I cant run Claptons on my mechs. Gonna have to cave in and go for a higher wattage mod so I can use my Rampage to its full potential!
 

supertrunker

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That much I knew. Its the reason I cant run Claptons on my mechs. Gonna have to cave in and go for a higher wattage mod so I can use my Rampage to its full potential!

Clean your mod. I run dual claptons as an all day vape on mech mods - one 18650. My work is hard on mods, and only mechs can take the beating.

T
 
Airflow, so that's the secret.
I have just ordered a 50w istick and a Lemo 2. More for the 4400 mah than anything else. So. I guess I will see.
I'm really not into clouds, but do want a nice comfortable flavorful vape.
As for my kanger rebuilds, I use a Kuro Koiler and use 28-32 ga kanthal with 2mm ekowool. Perfect coils. Easy to do and works great. I cut the ekowool on an angle which make it really easy to thread through the 2mm coil.
 

DingerCPA

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Tanks with better airflow?

Rebuilding Kanger coils is what I'm trying to do right now. Any quick suggestions/secrets?

NoFumus - I have a blog article that has a lot of pix and descriptions for building the Kanger coils. It's how I learned to start building....

I typically use 30g on a 1/16" drill bit. Usually 8-9 wraps. Gets me about 1.7-1.9 ohms - I compress the wraps. I use cottonballs - just a wisp - you don't want to over-stuff cotton. If you're using the bacon, snip a piece just barely wide enough of the inner diameter of your coil. I might roll it (in one direction) between my hands to get an end tapered to feed into the coil. Snip the ends, just to the length of the base flange.

I have no issues with burning or leaking or anything with this.

Give a shout if you have questions!
 
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