Indulgence Mt-Rta
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deal.
Lmao..Hook a brother up. I don't know if TC will work with the ss clapton wire but wattage mode will 
I think it might confuse the board, because of the different gauges. Hopefully we can find out soon.
I think it might confuse the board, because of the different gauges. Hopefully we can find out soon.
IKR? I don't think it will confuse the board, or not if it's all the same wire, because the board can't tell it's a clapton. It sees combined resistance, nothing more. It would be similar to the mod not being able to tell the difference between single and dual coils. (My Koopor has a SC/DC selection, and there's no documentation on what it does, but I suspect it merely changes the agressiveness profile, shifting from soft to normal or normal to hard, because it knows it has more mass to heat.) Claptons with dissimilar wires, like a Kanthal wrap over a Stainless core, might confuse it because you will have changed the TCR without telling the board you did. Even that's beatable: just unwrap the wrap and pin only the core in the post. Then the core wire would behave with the right TCR, heating the wrap wire only by conduction/convection.
It was a small local shop that had it and when I looked it up online it was from a Chinese vendor.Lmao..Hook a brother up. I don't know if TC will work with the ss clapton wire but wattage mode will
I think it might confuse the board, because of the different gauges. Hopefully we can find out soon.
Your best bet honestly is eBay, you'll able to find some us supplier on there for sure
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FT actually got me that SS clapton wire pretty quickly. 8 days.
However, I haven't really gotten to try it yet. I put it in the HIGO when that got here, as they both came the same day. I didn't realize though that my 510 pin was loose. I was getting very bizarre resistance readings that were all over the place. Unfortunately, I thought it was the wire, and ripped it out. Decided I better put in a build I was familiar with. Then the same thing happened and I did more investigating of the atty itself. And yep, my 510 pin was a little loose.
So I still need to try my new wire in something.
However, I haven't really gotten to try it yet. I put it in the HIGO when that got here, as they both came the same day. I didn't realize though that my 510 pin was loose. I was getting very bizarre resistance readings that were all over the place. Unfortunately, I thought it was the wire, and ripped it out. Decided I better put in a build I was familiar with. Then the same thing happened and I did more investigating of the atty itself. And yep, my 510 pin was a little loose.
So I still need to try my new wire in something.
Here's the pic from vapenw
None of the photos show the velocity deck except for this one and it's pretty self explanatory
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The listing has been updated since I purchased it, added pics showing the deck, added "SOLD SEPARATELY" on the Vdeck. I scrutinized the listing just for this reason, I did not want the 3 post deck, I've had my original MT for sometime, and the 3 post deck purchase is reduntant.
I found a couple of ebay vendors that had it, thanks for the heads up. If i could find some 32-36 awg i would make my own. I going to stop by my my local welding supply store tomorrow and see what they say.
You're going to find they're in the .3ish mm range, that being what wire welders use. But good luck. LMK if you find some. Now you see why I was looking for a draw plate
You're going to find they're in the .3ish mm range, that being what wire welders use. But good luck. LMK if you find some. Now you see why I was looking for a draw plate
Now i understand lol. Never thought it would be this difficult! I think you are on to something here, please keep us updated.
Went disc golfing with a bunch of buddies this weekend and everyone's a vaper, once they got their paws on my mt it was super difficult to get it back lol, none of them do rta's so once they heard it was a rebuildable their interest lessened
I decided to get the Mutank from VapeNW. Can't beat the price and I am not getting the v deck. I rather like the split positive MT deck. Just happy about the added capacity.
RX Number 1 sometimes "loses" MT Number 3, for some reason I don't understand. It will give me "atomizer low," sometimes in the middle of the hit. Turning it off, loosening the tank, turning it back on and screwing the tank back down fixes it. I have just tried cleaning the 510 with alcohol and a Q-tip. We shall see if this fixes it. MT Number 3 gets a bit "weepy" occasionally. I wouldn't call it a leak, exactly, but you do get some vapor condensation in the air holes, so maybe it got a drop down in the connector. BTW, In case my earlier cheer leading posts didn't get the message across, I am really liking the 3.0 firmware upgrade.
I don't know how it gets there, but every time I take my MT off of my RX, I have a good, wet spot around the 510 from under the tank. I keep checking for leakage and can't really find any, except upon refill. Seems like it's seeping between the body and the AFC ring. Wish I could get this to stop leaking altogether.
Between the body and the AFC is a good guess. But all tanks condense vapor that gets into the air system and stays there.
It leaked right there at the afc ring on both of the rta's I had. Should of designed it with a o ring there
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I just found a 1mm x approx 18mm o-ring from something that I own. I took it and put it carefully around the 510 rings on top of the RX and gently reapplied the MT. If it leaks now, at least it will keep the juice away from the 510 pin.
I'll see if it works. I'm going to measure the rings and see if I can get an oring that will fit nicely. The one I put in was a little big and might have shifted some. I'll check it tomorrow.
I haven't had any juice at the 510 pin on my rx200, the outer ring is a different story
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