Odd, that and the TFV4 are the two tanks I DON'T have leaking issues with. My guess is there is a wicking issue with the Mutank.I need to review this thread but I'm about to be away from my computer for a while so I'm going to do the rude thing and just ask something that's probably been asked and answered a million times already:
I've got a Mutank. I keep having problems with it emptying it's contents as soon as I open up the air intake after filling.
dangit gotta go
Odd, that and the TFV4 are the two tanks I DON'T have leaking issues with. My guess is there is a wicking issue with the Mutank.
@suprtrkr came up with this method which is genius imoI need to review this thread but I'm about to be away from my computer for a while so I'm going to do the rude thing and just ask something that's probably been asked and answered a million times already:
I've got a Mutank. I keep having problems with it emptying it's contents as soon as I open up the air intake after filling.
dangit gotta go
Lol, thank you but not alone and not without a lot of spilled juice@suprtrkr came up with this method which is genius imoScroll down halfway on page 214.
Indulgence Mt-Rta
Mutank wicking fail 01 by Jason Leaphart, on Flickr
Mutank wicking fail 02 by Jason Leaphart, on FlickrYup, not enough wick. I usually leave the tails long and cut them off after putting the barrel on, then stuffing them back into the ports. Wetting them with juice before first fill helps avoid bypass flooding. I also lay a separate strip on the deck between the air towers and the center post-- about 1/4 of a rayon rope in each channel-- and bring the coil wicks out on top of the deck strips. I use 3 or 3.5mm mandrels for my coils, and pull half a rayon rope into each, thinning the tails to half the volume. It's also useful to put the lower tank seal on the base before wicking. If you leave it in the bottom of the glass, pushing it by the wick ports can displace them, leaving a hole for a flood. Photos page 214, linked above.I gave that writeup a look. I will absolutely be giving that a shot in the next few days! Right now I'm in the "just walk away from it" phase, heh.
Here are some photos I took of the last failed build. I think I'm just not getting enough wick in the channels, AND I get some "wick overhang" where the wick is leaking onto/INTO the air hole. Bleh. I was hoping this thing would be as easy and forgiving as the Aqua V2 clones I've got. I have a feeling that WHEN I get the Mutank sorted, it will be a great device!
(you'll have to excuse the sickly green tint, my white balance was set up for something else entirely)
Mutank wicking fail 01 by Jason Leaphart, on Flickr
Mutank wicking fail 02[/url] by Jason Leaphart, on Flickr[/IMG]![]()
Mutank wicking fail 02 by Jason Leaphart, on Flickr
I'll be around later, no prob. Once you figure out how-- this takes some doing, I think I built my MTs 6 or 8 times before I got there-- I believe you'll find it worth the troubleThanks for the pointers supertrucker! I will be putting them to use when I'm less frazzled. Today was a no-good day. Getting my mighty Mutank up and running woulda been a great pick-me-up. Instead it just zapped the last nerve I had going.
Please ;-)One of my MTs needs rewicked so if I get to that today, I'll take some pics also. Its a 6 wrap Clapton like yours.
I'm currently running dual fused claptons 26/36 n80/SS304 in my Griffin coming in at 0.16 and don't have a single problem.Wrong thread I know because this is on my Griffin but its 26/32 Clapton paralleled with 26g SS316. If its already ohming out at .3 a dual coil would be at .15 right? Is it doable?
if the resistance suddenly doubles, I think broken leg on one of the coils. If only one is firing, it should be double resistance.something isnt right... tried it and originally it came out to .15 now its at a steady .38 all put together and without the barrel. tried vaping it at 75w to start and just get burnt hits