Indulgence Mt-Rta
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I just emailed Unicig (Indulgence). I don't know if they're still there. They answered when I was tracking down the o rings.
Eureka! It works. Sorta, anyway. It definitely works better than no glass at all. The inner diameter is slightly tighter, it's not as easy to slide on the seal. The glass is not quite as thick, so it won't be as tough. According to my dial caliper:
Fogger V4: ID, 18.5mm; OD, 29.1mm; Length 29.1mm; Thickness, 1.3mm
MT: ID, 18.9mm; OD, 21.95mm; Length, 30.05mm; Thickness, 1.55mm
BTW, the Fogger V6 glass is the same. I do not have a V5 so I can't check.
Googling for the part brings up a lot of hits. It is alleged to be in stock on these that happened to be at the top of the list:
Fogger V4/V5 Glass Tank
Fogger V4 Replacement Glass - WhimWhamVapes.com
MT#2 built with Fogger glass. You can see the glass thickness leaves a tiny, tiny shy where the steel caps overlap at the seal. I didn't fill it because #2 isn't built and there's no way to keep liquid in it, but I doubt it will leak the way the seals work. You can also see the seal fits the glass tightly and the chimney is fully screwed down:
![20160202_201023[1].jpg](https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/attachments/20160202_201023-1-jpg.527534/ "20160202_201023[1].jpg")
Side by side, Fogger to the left. A bit thinner and shorter. But close; very close indeed.
![20160202_201251[1].jpg](https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/attachments/20160202_201251-1-jpg.527535/ "20160202_201251[1].jpg")
Fogger V4: ID, 18.5mm; OD, 29.1mm; Length 29.1mm; Thickness, 1.3mm
MT: ID, 18.9mm; OD, 21.95mm; Length, 30.05mm; Thickness, 1.55mm
BTW, the Fogger V6 glass is the same. I do not have a V5 so I can't check.
Googling for the part brings up a lot of hits. It is alleged to be in stock on these that happened to be at the top of the list:
Fogger V4/V5 Glass Tank
Fogger V4 Replacement Glass - WhimWhamVapes.com
MT#2 built with Fogger glass. You can see the glass thickness leaves a tiny, tiny shy where the steel caps overlap at the seal. I didn't fill it because #2 isn't built and there's no way to keep liquid in it, but I doubt it will leak the way the seals work. You can also see the seal fits the glass tightly and the chimney is fully screwed down:
Side by side, Fogger to the left. A bit thinner and shorter. But close; very close indeed.
if your looking to have smoked grey glass, look at window film... I used to have a nice blue and red tanks thanks to that.
as to replacement glass... try the atlantis glass, from the measurements given above it is only 1mm to long. a litte time spent on a plate with 400g emery cloth should be able to bring .5mm off each end fairly easily.
Now on to my issue of the atty short for my mt. I believe its been solved... I copied my post from the RX thread:
well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!
This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.
as to replacement glass... try the atlantis glass, from the measurements given above it is only 1mm to long. a litte time spent on a plate with 400g emery cloth should be able to bring .5mm off each end fairly easily.
Now on to my issue of the atty short for my mt. I believe its been solved... I copied my post from the RX thread:
well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!
This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.
very nice!if your looking to have smoked grey glass, look at window film... I used to have a nice blue and red tanks thanks to that.
as to replacement glass... try the atlantis glass, from the measurements given above it is only 1mm to long. a litte time spent on a plate with 400g emery cloth should be able to bring .5mm off each end fairly easily.
Now on to my issue of the atty short for my mt. I believe its been solved... I copied my post from the RX thread:
well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!
This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.
Where did you get your FDV V4 510? Or one that would work for this. Mine is ok now but I always like to have a parts list if need be. Thanks!!if your looking to have smoked grey glass, look at window film... I used to have a nice blue and red tanks thanks to that.
as to replacement glass... try the atlantis glass, from the measurements given above it is only 1mm to long. a litte time spent on a plate with 400g emery cloth should be able to bring .5mm off each end fairly easily.
Now on to my issue of the atty short for my mt. I believe its been solved... I copied my post from the RX thread:
well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!
This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.
I remember awhile back somebody posted the size screwdriver that the mt-rta's grub nuts uses, but it was in a "T" size. Can anyone confirm if its a T5? I have a T6 but it's a little too big. Thanks!
And @EverPresentNoob you did a really nice job on that! When I get an rx200 i'm definitely going to do that.
And @EverPresentNoob you did a really nice job on that! When I get an rx200 i'm definitely going to do that.
Fat Daddy Vapes sells them. They're also all over eBay.
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