Indulgence Mt-Rta

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EverPresentNoob

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Just so you all know, I just tried to fit a standard size v5 FDV in an RX. the bottom of the shaft thread hits the board. I could probably dremel away a little material on the shaft, but why should I when I know the LP and short model fits with out doing that. Or I may stick a washer under the 510 deck to make it stand proud like my other one does, but I was trying to sit it flush with the top of the mod.
 

dshuld

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Just so you all know, I just tried to fit a standard size v5 FDV in an RX. the bottom of the shaft thread hits the board. I could probably dremel away a little material on the shaft, but why should I when I know the LP and short model fits with out doing that. Or I may stick a washer under the 510 deck to make it stand proud like my other one does, but I was trying to sit it flush with the top of the mod.
Do you think it would be worth the mm shorter on the v3 in the rx? As much as I would like to do the copper v4 the v3 says 11.5 over all height vs the 12.5? On the v4 lp short.
 

EverPresentNoob

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well I needed about 1mm more space with the v5. the shaft was pushing the board down to the bottom of the mod and the screw holes werent lined up. But it looked like you coud remove a little material off the shaft nd all would be fine.

Granted I had also removed the two small ribs that are part of the mods body around the 510 connector so that the 510 deck would sit flush with the mod. if you left those there and let the deck of it stand a mm or so above the mod body, then you would have a touch more space for the shaft.

bottom line, yes, you could still make the copper 510 to work, it just might take a touch more work.
 

EverPresentNoob

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yea, what your asking makes sense. I guess it depends on what you want to end up with. deck flush or deck proud.

Mines proud:

This would give a little more room. making it sit flush sinks the shaft about 1mm deeper and causes the clearance issue with the V5. Not sure of the v5 length off the top of my cranium....
 

EverPresentNoob

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Realistically sitting proud is probably better with the move to wider rtas going on though I suppose.
And that is why I did it that way. I think Im going to use a washer under the 510 in this one to make it a little proud. Just enough so that a larger atty wont make contact with the painted mod body.
 

EverPresentNoob

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alpha ohmega or vcmt. I want one but dont know what one. Herd the vcmt leaks bad. What one do you all think is better?
I have both. Love them both. no issues with leaking any more on either one, now that I figured outmy wicking.
 

dshuld

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Cant help you there havent searched for it yet.

Side not the dental cotton experiment in the mu begins. Mode came out of my pocket at 199w and didnt know til it was to late. Cb is at home so had to resort to the dental since it was here at work. Still the cleanest first hit but doesnt wick as fast as even cb does so far. Even at 40 watts it is not chainable. Recottoned twice this morning thinking I put to much in. Hasnt helped so far having less in the channels. So far I think my overall opinion is its great in an rda setting but not the mu.
 
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roxynoodle

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Does anybody know where i can buy premade (clapton, alien, fused) SS 316L wire on the spool or equivalent?

I got some from FT (clapton). Its really springy! I don't know if making my own will be better? I am going to order some 32, 34 and 36 from Kidney Puncher to see.

It is giving me good flavor in the Bachelor.
 

dshuld

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20160303_112459-1.jpg well after a few hours and 4ml through I'm now chaining it at 50w and getting some big ole bubbles :D. Guess the dental cotton just needed some time to decide it wanted to play nicely.
 
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