Infinity has arrived, some quick questions

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OldDragon

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Just got my infinity and charging the first set of batteries. Nice shinny copper tube now covered with my finger prints. First question, the charger does not list the lc14430 batteries but I'm guessing that it works fine for charging the batteries. My main question about the batteries is the positive side should be the side with the sightly raised part and the negative side is the completely flat side. Never used these type of batteries before and there is no +/- marked on the battery, Just want to make sure.

Next question. I got the small volt meter, tried it on a couple of my ego batteries and it wouldn't give a reading. Tried it on my passthru and it seemed to work just fine-4.7. seem normal?
 

Bovinia

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Gratz Dragon! Yes the +positive end is the nipple or bump end of your battery. Both batts go into your Infinity with the nipple inserted first, towards the atty end. I'm not sure which charger you got but if Mike sent it with your kit then it will charge your 14430s.

I'm going to ask you a silly question so bear with me...when you tried the meter on your eGo did you screw it on and then press the button on your eGo? If so you did then it may not be making contact. Once your Infinity batts are charged and installed, try it on your Infinity and see if you get a reading.

I don't know what kind of passthru you have or if you are powering it through your computer or a wall adapter, so I don't know what a normal reading for it would be...sorry.
 

OldDragon

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On the ego's screwed it on and then pushed the button- almost acts as if it running away with the volt testing=all the led parts for the display are flickering, it just can't decide what to display. Works ok on the passthru and infinity.
Everything is working fine now - how do you tell when to recharge, just no power to the atty? Does the very small led start flashing like the ego batteries? I'm sure I'll find out in another hour or so..
 

OldDragon

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chopper circuit - great description, isn't that something someonce came up to make batteries last longer? Is the inside of the tube made of a different material, looks like aluminum, just can't figure out how you would go about putting a aluminum tube inside a copper one and still have it look like one piece of metal(no seams). All I can really say at this point - real nice.
 

paco

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Plated, didn't know there was such a thing as copper plate.

So its safe to say you have never cut a penny in half? Try it one day, penny's are also copper plated, if it was solid it'll be worth more than a cent, even thou it still cost more than a cent to make a penny.

Hope you Like the infinity, I have a buzz and just ordered a infinity.
 

Mobius_13

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So its safe to say you have never cut a penny in half? Try it one day, penny's are also copper plated, if it was solid it'll be worth more than a cent, even thou it still cost more than a cent to make a penny.

Hope you Like the infinity, I have a buzz and just ordered a infinity.

Any penny before 1983 is copper. Last I checked they were worth about twice face value. My friend and I used to joke around and talk about melting a bunch down and cashing in. lol. We decided it wouldn't be worth the hassle.
 

OldDragon

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Always thought that todays penny was made up of a mix of two metals- not plated. But also was thinking that one could buy a roll and sell it for scrap at a higher price if the copper could be melted down. Liking it so far, and the copper is starting to change colors, almost purple-lish, real nice looking. could polish it, but I kinda like the color it is becoming.
 

5cardstud

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Always thought that todays penny was made up of a mix of two metals- not plated. But also was thinking that one could buy a roll and sell it for scrap at a higher price if the copper could be melted down. Liking it so far, and the copper is starting to change colors, almost purple-lish, real nice looking. could polish it, but I kinda like the color it is becoming.

others-064.gif
Pics, We wanna see too.
 

Ruppy

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Fun facts on pennies ;)

In 1943, at the peak of World War II, pennies of zinc-coated steel were made for a short time because of war demands for copper. A few copper pennies from 1943 were produced from the 1942 planchets remaining in the bins. Similarly, some 1944 steel pennies have been confirmed. From 1944 through 1946, salvaged ammunition shells made their way into the minting process, and it was not uncommon to see coins featuring streaks of brass or having a considerably darker finish than other issues.
1974 aluminum penny from the Smithsonian

During the early 1970s, the price of copper rose to a point where the penny contained almost one cent's worth of copper. This led the Mint to test alternative metals, including aluminum and bronze-clad steel. Aluminum was chosen, and over 1.5 million of these pennies were struck and ready for public release before ultimately being rejected. The proposed aluminum pennies were rejected because of two factors: vending machine owners complained the coins would cause mechanical problems and pediatricians/pediatric radiologists pointed out the radiodensity of the metal inside the respiratory and gastrointestinal tracts was close to that of soft tissue and therefore would be difficult to detect in X-ray imaging.[6] One aluminum penny was donated to the Smithsonian Institution.

The penny's composition was changed in 1982 because the value of the copper in the coin started to rise above one cent.[7] This was mainly caused by inflation. Some 1982 pennies use the 97.5% zinc composition, while others used the 95% copper composition.

One can hear the difference between the bronze and copper pennies and the newer, zinc pennies by dropping a coin on a solid surface. The predominantly copper pennies produce a ringing sound in the 12 kHz range. The zinc coins make a noise that is different.[8] In addition, a full 50-penny roll of pre-1982/3 pennies will weigh 5.4 oz. compared to a post 1982/83 roll which will weigh 4.4 oz.
 
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