I run a regular lighter over the wire before I wrap it into a coil, that's all. It glows a pretty red color. Something about releasing the tension? I dunno. It doesn't hurt anything, so I do it. I could be way off base with it, but I'm pretty sure I read about doing that on this site.
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I run a regular lighter over the wire before I wrap it into a coil, that's all. It glows a pretty red color. Something about releasing the tension? I dunno. It doesn't hurt anything, so I do it. I could be way off base with it, but I'm pretty sure I read about doing that on this site.
Yeah heating the wire before hand with a lighter tempers the steel so it's more malleable so it holds it's shape. Adeline is correct on removing machine oils during manufacturing. Also if you are using stainless steel mesh, oxidizing the coil makes it a lot easier to prevent short circuits. Also using a torch can melt the thin resistance wire, a regular flame will get it red-orange hot perfect for tempering.
For anyone that's interested and hasn't seen it done yet, start this video at about 9:19 to see a good method for twisting the two wires together. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kZVFOA-X7
I just twisted the legs on my coil and had no problem threading it through the tiny holes in the ceramic. It seems to work well enough and I'll probably just stick with that.
Edit: I've changed my mind as he doesn't show trimming the ends off for a small joint. There's a much better video that I've seen, and I thought it was this one but it isn't. I'll keep searching and post it if I find it. In the mean time, does anyone else have any links?
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I started having a slight dry hit every once in a while (because I'm a chain vaper) so I decided to try a thicker wick but when it comes to cups you can't make the coil bigger than the slots or else things get choked. So I just got done installing a larger coil without the ceramic cup in and the metal slots are much bigger and the coil sets down a quarter inch lower. I didn't want to modify the ceramic cup slots just yet until I've got to know its different performance with different setups. Will report after it soaks.
Before doing the current setup today I tried twisting nr legs after the coil was in the cup and it just wasn't good enough for me to feel comfortable installing. With all the stuff I have ordered I'm really looking forward to welding instead of twisting lol.
Can't wait until wizardlabs starts taking orders again.
Before doing the current setup today I tried twisting nr legs after the coil was in the cup and it just wasn't good enough for me to feel comfortable installing. With all the stuff I have ordered I'm really looking forward to welding instead of twisting lol.
Can't wait until wizardlabs starts taking orders again.
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Well finally, my Drunker tank will be out for delivery today. 
I will be trying to rewick the original coil with #4 cotton yarn. I'll see how that goes.
I will be trying to rewick the original coil with #4 cotton yarn. I'll see how that goes.
I've been meaning to post my set up because it takes advantage of a couple of tips I've picked up from the forum here. I already had these ideas in mind when I received my drunker and since it's vaping like a steam engine I'll mention them for others to try if they want to. This method uses a larger wick than the factory wick but does so by running one wick through the coil and one on top of the coil. Works like a charm.
First let's make us a handy tool for twisting our wicks and the legs of our coil, using a paper clip. The basic idea is to make a hook with a handle we can spin between our thumb and finger.
To make it grab a paper clip and straighten one end, leaving the hook on one end. About an inch out from the top of the hook, bend it back toward the bottom, then from about an inch down, back back toward the top, then back toward the bottom etc. Wrap some cotton or cheese cloth on the handle and we have our spinner.
Now the coil. Flame your wire if you do that, then loop about one inch around the spinner, and holding with thumb and forefinger spin it a few time to start. Then grab it with some tweezers back where the wires meet and spin it tight. Don't over tighten but do get it neat and tight enough that it wont come apart.
You'll have a small bit of untwisted wire at the end where the tweezers were...trim that with nail cutters. Slide it off the paper clip and flatten the small loop with your tweezers.
To prewrap the coil, Find something that will almost, but not quite, fit down the slots of the ceramic. The idea is that we want something big enough for a good sized wick, but not too big for a snug fit on the wick. I use the inner shaft from a ce2 but a 3/32nd in. drill bit should be about right I would think.
If you have a vv device I recommend 5 wraps which should wind up ~2.5 ohms or so. Wrap tightly with a wide pitch, then squeeze the coils together. They'll spring back apart a little for a nice, evenly spaced coil.
Unwrap the last coil slightly and fold back that leg for twisting. Fold it back just a hair past the coil, and start twisting as before, then grab the wires with the tweezers so that the front of the tweezers is where you want the twist to end, finish twisting, and trim the unwrapped wire away and flatten the loop as before, then tighten up the last coil.
To install the coil, slide it off the the bit or nail and twist in a small one inch wick, then a needle at the bottom. Start the legs down the holes in the ceramic and if the coil tries to twist sideways a little, pull it back up until the needle is above the slots and twist a little ways in the opposite direction, then pull back down in the slots. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the idea is that we want it aligned enough we can start the 'shoelace' through it. The pictures Adeline posted at the start of this thread should cover the pin and grommet aspect well enough.
Now the wick. Grab a make up pad and cut a 'fat' 1/8th to 3/16th inch strip from around the circumference. One time around will give us enough. Use a ruler to get in mind how much 1/8 th inch is and go slow and as even as possible (shown in this picture except thinner) One time around is enough length unless you want to do the whole thing while you're at it. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...t-cottons-different-wicks-10.html#post8341530
Trap one end between the bottom two fingers and palm, then loop about 3/4 in. around the hook, and holding lightly between thumb and finger, spin and and pull to feed it out from your thumb and finger. Once twisted, the cotton holds together strong. Take some foil or saran wrap at the end to give a 'shoe lace' type end for threading.
To thread in the wick, the basic idea is to start by threading the wick up from the bottom, over to the ceramic, on top of the coil to the other side, down through one hole, back up through the adjacent hole leaving a little loop, and back to the ceramic.
This time we want to thread through the coil, so lift the first run out of the slots, thread through the coil and then down through the adjacent hole to the one we started with. Put the first thread back into the ceramic on top of the coil again, adjust slack any where it's needed, cut the loop and trim up the wick to the desired length.
Now when it comes time to replace the wick, we can lift out the top wick, twist out the wick in our coil, clean the coil, and replace one wick.
Tip: Anytime threading becomes tight, the secret is to twist the wick tighter. When pulling through the coil, spin the foil tip between your thumb and finger, pulling at the same time. As the wick tightens it will pull through the coil easy enough.
I hope someone will try this and post some pictures. (hint, hint)
First let's make us a handy tool for twisting our wicks and the legs of our coil, using a paper clip. The basic idea is to make a hook with a handle we can spin between our thumb and finger.
To make it grab a paper clip and straighten one end, leaving the hook on one end. About an inch out from the top of the hook, bend it back toward the bottom, then from about an inch down, back back toward the top, then back toward the bottom etc. Wrap some cotton or cheese cloth on the handle and we have our spinner.
Now the coil. Flame your wire if you do that, then loop about one inch around the spinner, and holding with thumb and forefinger spin it a few time to start. Then grab it with some tweezers back where the wires meet and spin it tight. Don't over tighten but do get it neat and tight enough that it wont come apart.
You'll have a small bit of untwisted wire at the end where the tweezers were...trim that with nail cutters. Slide it off the paper clip and flatten the small loop with your tweezers.
To prewrap the coil, Find something that will almost, but not quite, fit down the slots of the ceramic. The idea is that we want something big enough for a good sized wick, but not too big for a snug fit on the wick. I use the inner shaft from a ce2 but a 3/32nd in. drill bit should be about right I would think.
If you have a vv device I recommend 5 wraps which should wind up ~2.5 ohms or so. Wrap tightly with a wide pitch, then squeeze the coils together. They'll spring back apart a little for a nice, evenly spaced coil.
Unwrap the last coil slightly and fold back that leg for twisting. Fold it back just a hair past the coil, and start twisting as before, then grab the wires with the tweezers so that the front of the tweezers is where you want the twist to end, finish twisting, and trim the unwrapped wire away and flatten the loop as before, then tighten up the last coil.
To install the coil, slide it off the the bit or nail and twist in a small one inch wick, then a needle at the bottom. Start the legs down the holes in the ceramic and if the coil tries to twist sideways a little, pull it back up until the needle is above the slots and twist a little ways in the opposite direction, then pull back down in the slots. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the idea is that we want it aligned enough we can start the 'shoelace' through it. The pictures Adeline posted at the start of this thread should cover the pin and grommet aspect well enough.
Now the wick. Grab a make up pad and cut a 'fat' 1/8th to 3/16th inch strip from around the circumference. One time around will give us enough. Use a ruler to get in mind how much 1/8 th inch is and go slow and as even as possible (shown in this picture except thinner) One time around is enough length unless you want to do the whole thing while you're at it. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...t-cottons-different-wicks-10.html#post8341530
Trap one end between the bottom two fingers and palm, then loop about 3/4 in. around the hook, and holding lightly between thumb and finger, spin and and pull to feed it out from your thumb and finger. Once twisted, the cotton holds together strong. Take some foil or saran wrap at the end to give a 'shoe lace' type end for threading.
To thread in the wick, the basic idea is to start by threading the wick up from the bottom, over to the ceramic, on top of the coil to the other side, down through one hole, back up through the adjacent hole leaving a little loop, and back to the ceramic.
This time we want to thread through the coil, so lift the first run out of the slots, thread through the coil and then down through the adjacent hole to the one we started with. Put the first thread back into the ceramic on top of the coil again, adjust slack any where it's needed, cut the loop and trim up the wick to the desired length.
Now when it comes time to replace the wick, we can lift out the top wick, twist out the wick in our coil, clean the coil, and replace one wick.
Tip: Anytime threading becomes tight, the secret is to twist the wick tighter. When pulling through the coil, spin the foil tip between your thumb and finger, pulling at the same time. As the wick tightens it will pull through the coil easy enough.
I hope someone will try this and post some pictures. (hint, hint)
I wish I had posted my method in time for you to try it. I think the advantage of using one wick on top of the coil is that it allows you to use a slightly bigger wick but it still doesn't get choked at the slots and coil. With this setup if I take a puff and then turn the top down, I'll immediately see a wiff of vapor out the end.
I'm not going to fool with this until I have to, but when I redo it, I'm going to try a tall coil with the wicks on each side of it, spin-E style lol.
Nice post JD1! I'm still missing some major components, so I didn't try it out tonight.
I did have to rewick 2 RBAs tonight. And I did NOT have fun with it.
Decided to try my kanthal again. AND tried a new method (rolling the coil on a screw). Made some really FAT coils. The first one or two didn't work out (I rolled the coil... backwards? ugh).
Then I rolled.. a 5ohm coil...
I don't think I like 36 gauge kanthal. Tried to salvage the 5ohm and got it down to around 4, then the whole thing went to the dogs.
Got my 34 nichrome back out and rolled 2 great coils back to back, threw one on the A7, one on the Drunker.
Drunker came out at a nice decent ohms this time -- have yet to throw it on the provari, but the multimeter had it at mid-2s.
FYI -- ultrasonic cleaner + cheesecloth wicked coil from Drunker tank? SO NOT WORTH IT. Just don't do it.
Buy a 2nd Drunker if you need to, but don't do what I did!
I did have to rewick 2 RBAs tonight. And I did NOT have fun with it.
Decided to try my kanthal again. AND tried a new method (rolling the coil on a screw). Made some really FAT coils. The first one or two didn't work out (I rolled the coil... backwards? ugh).
Then I rolled.. a 5ohm coil...
I don't think I like 36 gauge kanthal. Tried to salvage the 5ohm and got it down to around 4, then the whole thing went to the dogs. Got my 34 nichrome back out and rolled 2 great coils back to back, threw one on the A7, one on the Drunker.
Drunker came out at a nice decent ohms this time -- have yet to throw it on the provari, but the multimeter had it at mid-2s.
FYI -- ultrasonic cleaner + cheesecloth wicked coil from Drunker tank? SO NOT WORTH IT. Just don't do it.
Buy a 2nd Drunker if you need to, but don't do what I did!
Well finally, my Drunker tank will be out for delivery today.
Sooo. How's the visibility in the San Bernardino area now lol?
I've been following this thread and have almost bought this a few times. I have a question about leaking, are you still finding that leaking is not an issue? I try to always keep my pv upright, but sometimes in my purse it ends up sideways. I saw, I think in Adeline's first post that you couldn't get it to leak?
Still can't get it to leak. If you get the wick right, and it seems easy to do, it's very hard to get liquid to come through the holes in the atty caddy. If I hold it absolutely upside down and suck through the drip tip half a dozen or a dozen times, I can purposefully bring liquid through, but that's just gravity for you. I've never had it leak in my purse, in my laptop bag, or in my PV pouch. I literally lay it down in the bottom of my clutch when I go out, so it's horizontal. No leaks!
Still really like this tank. It's easy to work with, produces great vapor and flavor, and solves every gripe I had about the Vivi Nova (leaking, gross dirty coil gunk in my liquid, turning the liquid brown after a couple tanks). But it's pretty much as easy to rebuild as the VVN. I'm having fun using different wicks and stuff too.
I DO have another rebuildable coming, but it's a whole different ballgame. I won't be retiring the Drunker any time soon. I might pick up a 2nd one just so I can have one if I need to do an extra long soak for a cheesecloth wick. I much prefer it over my A7, and I way, way prefer it over using any other type of disposable juice delivery.
Nice post JD1! I'm still missing some major components, so I didn't try it out tonight.
I did have to rewick 2 RBAs tonight. And I did NOT have fun with it.
Decided to try my kanthal again. AND tried a new method (rolling the coil on a screw). Made some really FAT coils. The first one or two didn't work out (I rolled the coil... backwards? ugh).
Then I rolled.. a 5ohm coil...
Got my 34 nichrome back out and rolled 2 great coils back to back, threw one on the A7, one on the Drunker.
Drunker came out at a nice decent ohms this time -- have yet to throw it on the provari, but the multimeter had it at mid-2s.
FYI -- ultrasonic cleaner + cheesecloth wicked coil from Drunker tank? SO NOT WORTH IT. Just don't do it.
Buy a 2nd Drunker if you need to, but don't do what I did!
That's good to know, as I sort of thought it would work. I'm a caramel and vanilla junkie, and they're both big time coil gunkers. (Especially the vanilla, the caramel isn't as bad). I put them in everything.
Have you tried the new-ish redux? I have three of them and really like them. None of they leak a drop, and the coil is close enough to your mouth that you can back off on the voltage and still get warm vapor and great flavor. At 6 bucks a pop, they don't break the bank either lol.
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I think my coil was still too nasty, maybe. If you put it in an alcohol soak for a few days and let it dry completely, it might work just fine. I, however, did not have the patience for that!
I've never tried any redux. Are they easily rebuilt? I'm assuming like a VVN?
I dunno if I'm looking for a clearo, really. I try to stay away from disposable things -- or things that look like I can crush them with 2 fingers. I'm not the most dainty girl. Throw a link up though -- I'll take a look!
Pretty good. It arrived a little while ago, and I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I need to go back to the beginning of this thread and study the dissambled pics.
This is a super rba for out and about! I'm a female and carry a purse and have no worries about it tipping over, though I usually take care to place it in straight up but if it falls over it hasn't been a problem.
I just ordered one from sure vapes. 99% of the time my pv is upright, I have a small embroidered bag that fits nicely in my purse that holds all of my vaping stuff nicely. Occasionally if I go digging in my purse for something I turn the bag around, so far it has only happened twice but when it does I don't want juice everywhere. Thanks for this thread and everyone's posts! I've rebuilt the ViVi nova's few times now, and with the ceramic cup the drunker looks easier. Now I just have to be paitent and wait 2 weeks for it to arrive...
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