Insulation Material (inside)

[terranlanding]

Jay, I was using my 3.6v 510 GLV today and after it leaked in my pocket a little, I went to wipe it off and I noticed that the black insulation material inside the battery connection basically dissolved away. When I looked at the paper towel, it was really black (not just dirty) and when I peeked inside the connector, I could see the edges of some wires coming out from the insulation. Is this something that I need to worry about? Could this potentially cause a short?

I'm testing out a little silicone seal made from the cap of a KR808 carto. I just cut a small disk out of the top and punched a small (maybe 1-2mm) in the center. I placed that inside the battery connection and it seems to cover all of the black insulation and only the little center post sticks out.

Now I don't want anyone to get me wrong, the GLV is a fine device and Jay works very hard to keep us all happy. However, I feel like this may be a weak point in the unit and perhaps genuine battery threads may be more reliable in future GLV incarnations. Has anyone else had this happen to them? (It might only be on 510's because of the female connection on the battery side)

 

[miss MiA]

My 5V 510 looks that way too, if I've understood correctly what you're describing.

If you unscrew the cap that has the switch in it and look inside, is there still a piece of mesh-like material (presumably also for insulation) partially covering the button mechanism?

 

[STONEMAN]

My 5v Is the same way.I think Jay should have sealed that.

 

[terranlanding]

Sorry, I think I may have been a little confusing. I'm not talking about inside the main tube where the actual battery is, I mean inside the off-shoot tube where you screw in the atomizer. Its the black rubbery stuff surrounding the center post. For some reason it seems to melt or dissolve or something when e-liquid sits on it for a period of time.

My little silicone plug seems to be working fine to surround the centerpost and cover the (what appeared to be) exposed wire coming out from the black insulation.

EDIT: Maybe I just misread your post, Miss, if you were asking separately about the sheet covering the bottom of the button, yes mine has that too.

 

[miss MiA]

EDIT: Maybe I just misread your post, Miss, if you were asking separately about the sheet covering the bottom of the button, yes mine has that too.

Yes that's what I meant, my atty connector area is like yours but the other was a separate question. The reason I asked is that mine did have that sheet, but I notice it's gone now, must have dissolved... Another observation was that a small piece of black electrical tape I couldn't see before had slid kinda sideways and worked its way up onto the threads inside the cap. But maybe none of that would occur in a 3.7V, dunno, guess their innards could be fairly different given the 5V's resistor and all.

Anyway, will look forward to hearing whether it sounds like anything might make contact that shouldn't, hope not of course, I likee my lil pacifier here!

 

[SmilingSlasher]

Could anyone post pics of what they are talking about. Might make it easier for Jaybird to understand what you are talking about. Plus, I have a 5v GLV coming and I would like to see this too. Thanks.

 

[CellWho]

I've got one coming as well and talk about insulation material dissolving, electrical tape, and exposed wires have me a little concerned.

Maybe Jay would like to respond and give us a heads up on what might be happening and a possible fix.

Also, as mine hasn't shipped yet, maybe he wants to address the issue before sending it out.

 

[jaybird]

I know what part your talking about.... Its not a big deal and i already solved that problem. By using a silicone tube instead of rubber. i made the change about a week or 2 ago. I love the feedback it helps me to improve the GLV so that i can put out the best product i can. No worries tho I have the first GLV ever made and its still working, so no matter what you do to it i can always rebuild it ..even if you drop it in the water lol. if anyone has this issue please let me know. If it gets worse terran please contact me so i can fix ya up. The wires in the cap are fine but its best to not take the top cap off an play around in there lol.

 

[wiredl0ve]

No worries tho I have the first GLV ever made and its still working, so no matter what you do to it i can always rebuild it ..even if you drop it in the water lol.

Should I bother asking what other contaminates were in that water or it best to leave the mind to wonder?

 

[jaybird]

Should I bother asking what other contaminates were in that water or it best to leave the mind to wonder?

LOL i had a friend drop one in the lake this summer and it still worked...he still has it BTW.

 

[miss MiA]

I know what part your talking about.... Its not a big deal and i already solved that problem. By using a silicone tube instead of rubber. i made the change about a week or 2 ago. I love the feedback it helps me to improve the GLV so that i can put out the best product i can. No worries tho I have the first GLV ever made and its still working, so no matter what you do to it i can always rebuild it ..even if you drop it in the water lol. if anyone has this issue please let me know. If it gets worse terran please contact me so i can fix ya up. The wires in the cap are fine but its best to not take the top cap off an play around in there lol.

Mine was just shipped to me a few days ago, why wasn't a fixed one sent?

I definitely don't "play around in the cap;" the tube is very tight and both caps pretty much need to be off to get batteries out. It was impossible not to notice that a sheet of mesh-like insulating material as wide as the cap, that had been anchored from underneath the mechanism, had disappeared without a trace. It could only have dissolved and/or gotten 'smoked.' It must have been there originally for a reason, what was it? And electrical tape slipping sideways up into the cap threads is at least worth mentioning too. On the whole it seems logical to wonder if maybe things are getting hotter than they should, at least or especially on the 5V model. Could you please elaborate a little more on why these things are ok? Thanks...

 

[jaybird]

Mine was just shipped to me a few days ago, why wasn't a fixed one sent?

I definitely don't "play around in the cap;" the tube is very tight and both caps pretty much need to be off to get batteries out. It was impossible not to notice that a sheet of mesh-like insulating material as wide as the cap, that had been anchored from underneath the mechanism, had disappeared without a trace. It could only have dissolved and/or gotten 'smoked.' It must have been there originally for a reason, what was it? And electrical tape slipping sideways up into the cap threads is at least worth mentioning too. On the whole it seems logical to wonder if maybe things are getting hotter than they should, at least or especially on the 5V model. Could you please elaborate a little more on why these things are ok? Thanks...

The part that we are talking about is the little tube that sits on top of the body, the part you atomizer connects to. if you look down there you will see a brass rod that is inside of a clear..ish tube. It would not get any hotter as far as the atomizer goes if any thing was wrong it just would not work at all. Im not really sure about the mesh can you post a pic for me or send it to my e-mail?

 

[miss MiA]

The part that we are talking about is the little tube that sits on top of the body, the part you atomizer connects to. if you look down there you will see a brass rod that is inside of a clear..ish tube. It would not get any hotter as far as the atomizer goes if any thing was wrong it just would not work at all. Im not really sure about the mesh can you post a pic for me or send it to my e-mail?

Yes I know the part you're talking about there, but I had added a second part to the discussion before you replied the first time, since it also regards insulation disappearing. I thought you'd noticed that since you mentioned "playing around in the cap," and it was me who mentioned something about the inside of the cap, not terranlanding. (On the note of the part you're talking about tho, the 510 adapter, actually I don't see any kind of inner tube around it; just the remains of the black powdery insulation material terranlanding first posted about, and a blue wire.)

As for the other part inside the main cap that I brought up near the beginning, as I've mentioned it dissolved away on mine so I can't take a pic of it. Regardless, could you please just read the first few very short posts of the thread where terranlanding and I talked about it... you will surely know right away what piece of mesh (or something similar-looking) inside the mechanism cap that we were referring to... Only one of the end caps contains the electrical mechanism; and there is (was) only one big sheet of mesh-like material in it (or anywhere else in the GLV); and you put it there...

Then instead of the heat angle, maybe it would be more relevant to answer from the perspective of whether in either of the cases we've described, it sounds like anything might make contact that shouldn't. I think that was what T and another poster were originally asking about anyway.

 

[jaybird]

Sorry I should have read that better , I get going answering emails and PM's trying to get to everyone. There should be tape that lines the inside of the cap where the threads end , I do that to as an extra precaution. the wire on the inside of the atomizer connection is soldered on to the brass piece but is insulated from the body. im still not sure what the mesh is but ill post a pic tomorrow of what it should look like . The 5v and 3.6 do look different inside . Again I apologize .

 

[miss MiA]

Sorry I should have read that better [...]. im still not sure what the mesh is but ill post a pic tomorrow of what it should look like .

Could you please follow through on this Jay? (A pic looking downwards into the cap that contains the electrical mechanism.) I'm holding off on using it until the mystery can be resolved, and that ain't no fun at all.

Please also post a pic of what the 510 adapter area should look like on versions containing the design fix you made a couple weeks ago. Think mine also has the issue this thread was started about, altho it was just shipped last Thursday. (But fyi I don't see any 'clear-ish' inner tube around the adapter, just a little of the black powder.)

Thanks in advance.

 

[jaybird]

ok here ya are sorry about the wait . You can't see the tabs but they say..

battery connector - tape
wire- resistor and of curse the brass battery connector in the middle.

I cant get any closer with my cam that is far as i can zoom in. maybe one of the other 510 owners can help out with a better pic. I have looked around the shop to see what may look like mesh but i got nothing that even looks like mesh here so still not sure, but if it looks like this your in good shape. By the way today i found a liquid electrical tape that i will start using insulate any i think may be an issue .

 

[miss MiA]

Thanks Jay. Well hmmm... (this should be the last long one, good thing you love feedback eh! )...

First, re the mystery mesh: Mine looks more like the pic now that the unidentified sheet that arrived in it isn't there anymore, since your pic would indicate it never should have been. How it looked was: Sheet was anchored from underneath the resistor (but free around its edges), and fanned out almost to the walls of the cap. So, all the stuff below the resistor -- blue wires, button -- was mostly blocked from view, unless you pushed the thing out of the way. The material was thin, stiff but flexible nylon-ish fabric; light grayish with a tight mesh weave. There may have been a couple layers to it.

I was at my parents' when I received the GLV and they remember the mesh too -- we compared GLV's innards to those of a different mod (only by looking into them, not by 'playing around in the caps' lol). Maybe it's something put there to block off certain areas during some stage of welding or finishing, and isn't supposed to be left in? Maybe you should ask whoever you outsource certain aspects to if they do something like that.

Or maybe it's something that should only be in 3.7V models? Terranlanding's is 3.7 and earlier in the thread he (sorry if it's 'she') indicated he still does have the thing in his, and it's hard to imagine that any other part could be described the same way...

The blue wiring in mine looks somewhat diff than your pic too, the amount and directions of it. Resistor faces a different direction in relation to the atty tube too. But I can see where maybe that kinda stuff could vary from one to the next.

Re the atty tube -- granted, there isn't a lot of detail in the pic and I'm only on a 15" screen, so I can't tell if maybe what's shown there is more of a rough 'placeholder' kinda thing. But, that atty tube looks a lot different than mine. Mine is just a very narrow aluminum tube with black insulation powder packed through it, no inner tube of rubber or silicone or whatever. The tubing alone in your pic seems wider than the whole aluminum atty tube on mine.

Anyway. Whatever the mesh thing was it could only have dissolved or melted onto the other stuff, electricals, button, etc. (Not sure if this is related to the mesh, electrical tape, molding or none of those, but fyi I did find a little clear, stretchy stuff pooled in a small area of the cap threads.) At the least, that couldn't be ideal towards protecting my GLV's lifespan and performance... Re any other aspects, e.g. atty tube design -- in a full-price purchase made two weeks after a design fix/improvement, I'd expect/like to be sure it contained all the latest and best as of then.

As I've mentioned my family lives in your area, and I'll also be around more than usual during the next few weeks due to my mom's health. I know you're slammed around now and I often am too (and it's the holidays and all!), but maybe eventually we could work something out?

Thanks, and remember, I DO love the little devil (told you I should have just named it 'Christine' )!

 

[terranlanding]

I have the day off on Sunday so I'll upload the pictures of the part I was referring to originally. I actually got some really good angles on it and I think you can even see where the wires were sticking out next to the center post of the atty connection.

Sorry to make you all wait, but for some reason, I just can't upload my camera on my laptop and my PC is currently out of commission. I may even have time tomorrow after work to post them, so just check back soon.

 

[BiteMe]

Hi Jay...
Just to add my 2 cents worth...
I had the same problem with the insulator . But mine was moving up and down and allowing the center post to lose contact with the atomizer. I took a more radical aproach and ended up using a 2 part epoxy. I pushed the insulating material down a bit and made sure that the center pin was flush with the top of the tube, then filled the resulting gap with the epoxy. Now, not only does it not erode due to the liquid, but I no longer have the problem of the pin moving around a losing contact with the atty.
What a vaping beast this is now!

 

[jaybird]

Hi Jay...
Just to add my 2 cents worth...
I had the same problem with the insulator . But mine was moving up and down and allowing the center post to lose contact with the atomizer. I took a more radical aproach and ended up using a 2 part epoxy. I pushed the insulating material down a bit and made sure that the center pin was flush with the top of the tube, then filled the resulting gap with the epoxy. Now, not only does it not erode due to the liquid, but I no longer have the problem of the pin moving around a losing contact with the atty.
What a vaping beast this is now!

I have had the new insulating material in a bottle of juice for about 2 weeks now to test it and im happy to say that it does not dissolve at all, and keeps the pin in place like it should.