Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

[Tangaroav]

30 W would be great for me .

 

[Doffy]

I'm a variable wattage kind of guy. Different juices and different times of the day have me using different wattages. I also like a variety of flavors. I have 5 mechs and two variable regulated mods that I vape almost every day - each dedicated to the atties, coils, watts and juices that I like in them.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I would likely build to suit whatever voltage your mod is set to. And I would appreciate the consistency of that voltage!

ETA:
Wait. Are you planning on regulating the volts or the watts? I would prefer regulated voltage so I can build to the wattage I prefer with different juices.

Good point. And regulated fixed or regulated variable

If fixed change my 40 to 30 to suit broader audience

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

 

[sarndt0]

40 would be more than enough for me, too. Actually lower would be okay too since I could go mechanical.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

30 is max for me.

 

[olderthandirt]

Regulate for voltage.

4.0 volts makes sense.

Regardless device or liquid I rarely go above 12 watts.

 

[Yiorgo]

I have a regulated ipv mini 30 watt that I bought as a beater or back up mod and For my style of Vaping .50-80ohms I haven't felt the need to max it out at 30.....I'm comfortable at 20 watts.... I max out at 25 watts

Thanks for asking Paul!

 

[SeanMoore]

I believe he's talking about a regulated voltage module with an upper limit on wattage. And since there's a 10A fuse in the bottom, it ain't gonna be no 50W, ya know?

 

[ST Dog]

Wait. Are you planning on regulating the volts or the watts? I would prefer regulated voltage so I can build to the wattage I prefer with different juices.

He had said regulated voltage, ie a constant, fixed voltage instead of it dropping with battery use.

That said, the voltage regulator would still have a limit as to what power level (current) it could handle.
So what would be the desired max power/current the regulator can handle.

While I like the idea, a good buck-boost circuit that can handle 30-40W is going to be tough to fit in the space provided.
And what sort of boost circuit are we talking about? Several mods out there use less than desirable methods.

 

[ST Dog]

I believe he's talking about a regulated voltage module with an upper limit on wattage. And since there's a 10A fuse in the bottom, it ain't gonna be no 50W, ya know?

Assuming the fuse is before the boost circuit, than max power would 42W, ie fresh battery at 4.2V).

Except that a 10A fuse doesn't blow immediately with 10A through it. Generally they can handle larger currents for many seconds (and slow blow styles will go even longer). checking one data sheet shows 135% for 0.75-600 seconds, with an average of around 10 seconds. Allowing a reasonable cooling period between hits, and you could easily run 50W all day

But, I don't think the design is actually limited to 10A. I think that was just an example showing the location of the fuse and the use of an automotive fuse.

 

[Tangaroav]

Yeah, a lot of thoughts did went into this mod. But even more thoughts went into another mod of mine that I was thinking of releasing together with this mod. I mentioned that earlier in this thread but due to design challenges I have to put it off for now. Had I been solely focused on this first mod, I don't think I would've taken so long.

But it was not effort wasted. I do plan to continue working on that 2nd mod of mine after this first one is released and everything goes smooth.

Some of you have mentioned the voltage regulation module. While I do plan to release a voltage regulation module, it will probably have a limit when it comes to wattage. This is due to heat dissipation issues in the module itself. There is a trade off between space and power when it comes to the module. On one hand I want to keep the mod small and nice looking, on the other hand, I realize a lot of you guys are power hungry vapers.

Right now is a good time to think about the desired wattage for the voltage regulation module, before I finalize the dimension for the mod.

So how much watt do you think is enough? Personally, I vape at 4.2V at a 0.7 ohm resistance, so that's roughly 25W. But I know a lot of you would probably want more than that...

That second mod you are working on really intrigues me ..... and I am sure many others here. Give us a hint or two . I am sure it will fuel this thread into a wild fire.

 

[paulw2014]

Look at the two batteries above. Both are Panasonic batteries, but the green one has the negative terminal well insulated, and the gray one has the negative terminal relatively exposed.

Since the mod body is aluminum, with only a relatively thin layer of oxidation, I'm a worried that if one were to use the gray battery (with the negative terminal exposed on the side), it might by pass the fuse and conduct with the mod body. I wonder if it's necessary to add a insulating part inside the mod to prevent this.

However, the majority of batteries I've seen have the negative terminal well insulated so it might not be necessary, as long as I tell users not to use the battery like the gray one. What do you think?

 

[chohan]

Since the mod body is aluminum, with only a relatively thin layer of oxidation, I'm a worried that if one were to use the gray battery (with the negative terminal exposed on the side), it might by pass the fuse and conduct with the mod body. I wonder if it's necessary to add a insulating part inside the mod to prevent this.

However, the majority of batteries I've seen have the negative terminal well insulated so it might not be necessary, as long as I tell users not to use the battery like the gray one. What do you think?

Just a note of warning should be sufficient. Most users would never use a battery like the gray one unless they rewrapped it where it covered the edges properly.

 

[ST Dog]

I'm a worried that if one were to use the gray battery (with the negative terminal exposed on the side), it might by pass the fuse and conduct with the mod body. I wonder if it's necessary to add a insulating part inside the mod to prevent this.

However, the majority of batteries I've seen have the negative terminal well insulated so it might not be necessary, as long as I tell users not to use the battery like the gray one. What do you think?

If you can fit some insulation easily, I would recommend that. Next best is discourage the use of such batteries.
Re-wrapping a battery isn't hard, and appropriate heat shrink is readily available.

I have that problem with some batteries in a telescopic tube mod and have a few shorts.
It has room, so insulation can be added, but many mods don't.

Edit: I'm also guessing the grey one had solder tabs at some point, or was at least supposed to.

 

[supertrunker]

T

 

[BobC]

I wouldn't use either of those batteries in a mod with a sub-ohm coil(s)

 

[ST Dog]

I wouldn't use either of those batteries in a mod with a sub-ohm coil(s)

I couldn't find what I think is a reputable source for data on the NCR18650BE, but I saw 3A to 20A advertized.
Even one place claiming a 12C discharge! For a 3200mAhr battery, that's 38A.

 

[SeanMoore]

What do you think?

I think that as an engineer your job is to protect the stupid and careless.

I'm with bobc on this one though, I wouldn't use that BE for a 6A build... dunno what the other one is.

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Prove it......pics.... I wanna see what translucent orange gold looks like in a Reo...... Actually in your kaw green sl reo.......? My blow dryer doesn't get hot enough...... Now I definitely wanna see pics..... Cause I noticed the seams come out completely with a heat gun..... I'm calling you out on your rapping skillz. Lol jk bra

I would love to Georgy but considering none of my pics would be of any of Paul's wares that would be very disrespectful to Paul. I wish the very best for Paul and don't want his thread to become a patchwork of deleted posts. Feel free to pose the same challenge elsewhere and consider it game on.... Now back to the topic at hand...
MyMod, Paulw, regulated debate, Go...

 

[fm92872]

Checking in..

 

[Tangaroav]

I will show the final design next week. I've been making some modifications to the door recently. As you know, the mod body is made up of two halves, one of them being the door. This makes the door very easy to remove and put back, while not distracting from the aesthetics. A minor issue is that due to the clearance of machined parts, when mated together, there is a slight amount of play. I want my mod to feel like a solid piece of brick when held, so I've done some work solving this issue.

Can't wait for that final design.... When will you be taking orders ?