Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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Now if Paul could add a grove like that it'd be cool. That's a 22mm piece, and that ring is about the diameter of the 510 shell Paul used.
The o-ring Paul included has an ID nearly the same as the ID of the shell. But he could cut the groove at the OD of the the shell and it fit nicely. (I don't have my calipers handy to measure anything)
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The datasheet from Bussman
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...t-datasheets-a/Bus_Ele_DS_2048_ATM_Series.pdf
Says
% of Rating Opening Time Minimum/Maximum
110% 100 hrs. —
135% 0.75 sec. 600 sec.
160% 0.25 sec. 50 sec.
200% 0.15 sec. 5 sec
The minimums are usually not hit (750ms @ 135%) and generally closer to the max (600s = 10minutes). The chart of average melt time shows 150% (15A for a 10A fuse) averaging 4s. and 120% (your 12A) is basically off the chart at over 1000s.
Sure you could get some that are exceptionally fast, but that would be rare.
Finished. Working great. Surprising little leakage in the 510. Got it flatter than I thought I would?
Good news and bad news.
Bad news first.
Apparently the mail person doesn't read closely... or first names.
And the old owners of my house have a last name only 2 letters from mine. Could even confuse them in mixed company when spoken aloud.
So the mod was sent to the forwarding address of the old owners.
And I foresee this becoming common possibly.
Good news...
They're good people. So not only have we been informed, but they also dropped off the package.
Tapatyped
Bad news first.
Apparently the mail person doesn't read closely... or first names.
And the old owners of my house have a last name only 2 letters from mine. Could even confuse them in mixed company when spoken aloud.
So the mod was sent to the forwarding address of the old owners.
And I foresee this becoming common possibly.
Good news...
They're good people. So not only have we been informed, but they also dropped off the package.
Tapatyped
Glad they are still local.
The postmaster needs to be made aware so that the carriers are aware of this issue.
Me too.
I'm positive the wife has already made that very clear.
Tell me about it.
He's 72.
She's 64.
One of her parents (dad?) passed which prompted the sale of the house to move into the smaller dwelling.
Then during the sale the other one passed leaving her a choice of which to buy from her brother and fix up and which to sell outright.
Point being they're local for generations, embedded into local society and prefer it that way.
They're not going anywhere and have offered to help in any way they can.
Said just give a hollar.
Fan on the A/C heat exchanger already went last week. Called him and he was over with the owner of the A/C shop that installed it within 10 minutes. Fixed immediately upon receiving the part under warranty.
For one example.
It might have helped that I let them live in the house for a month rent free after the sale... and that I agreed to take their adorably sweet kitty cat so she doesn't get run over in traffic at their new place.
Meet Katy cat.
Tapatyped
I honestly got lucky it just popped in, like others have said though maybe try wetting it first, I wish I had known that ahead of time lol believe me.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Not to hijack the thread, but that cat looks a lot like my cat Stiggy! She's grooming herself in my lap at the moment. Got her as a kitten, and I've had her for a little over five years. Definite daddy's girl. Here's a pic of her and I.
Carry on with the MyMod discussion.
Sent from Doomite Central!
Well, I went down too fast...
Things I changed:
Put one of the white insulators under the negative screw
Lost the O ring under the RDA (not on purpose though. it just went somewhere during rebuild)
Tried 24 ga .45 ohm center coil with a fresh VTC4
ZZZZZZZZZZAP
There went the fuse.
RATS!
So, the fuse that's in the middle with the arrow is what I need to get in 10amp?
Also, do I need to take out the whole bottom piece or just loosen the screws to slip out/slip in the fuse?
Thanks!
Things I changed:
Put one of the white insulators under the negative screw
Lost the O ring under the RDA (not on purpose though. it just went somewhere during rebuild)
Tried 24 ga .45 ohm center coil with a fresh VTC4
ZZZZZZZZZZAP
There went the fuse.
RATS!
So, the fuse that's in the middle with the arrow is what I need to get in 10amp?
Also, do I need to take out the whole bottom piece or just loosen the screws to slip out/slip in the fuse?
Thanks!
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No you need the fuse to the far left, the low profile one. I found mine at the auto parts store. They were out of 10amp ones though so I just got the 20amps. Got my stumpy firing at .32 ohms. Not bad, not ideal for the way I vape with mechs but I will gradually go lower. I just took both screws out completely and put the fuse in and then put the 2 screws back in, make sure you don't crank them down though.
And come to think of it a .45 coil shouldn't of blown a 10amp fuse, your still within its limits.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Si I didn't blow a fuse.
Which is good, cuz I only have the one - didn't someone say it came with extra fuses?
No big deal...I can get 'em, just thought it was part of the parts kit!
It working -
Great finish, and I like the fire button/action - very smooth. And it's squonking quite well.
What's bugging me:
1 - I really don't want to hack my battery wraps for one mod... I did one that already had a small tear in it so I could get going...
2 - it won't fully close. I think it's the battery, like perhaps that curved sliver of white (delrin?) is a hair too thick for this Samsung 25 (original baby blue) and it's keeping the door from seating flush at the bottom.
3 - 510 really needs to be figured out. If that insulator's gonna fray, it's going to be nonstop problems We need a rock-solid 510 that can take a little abuse as we screw atties on and off, pull and push tight caps, etc...
Which is good, cuz I only have the one - didn't someone say it came with extra fuses?
No big deal...I can get 'em, just thought it was part of the parts kit!
It working -
Great finish, and I like the fire button/action - very smooth. And it's squonking quite well.
What's bugging me:
1 - I really don't want to hack my battery wraps for one mod... I did one that already had a small tear in it so I could get going...
2 - it won't fully close. I think it's the battery, like perhaps that curved sliver of white (delrin?) is a hair too thick for this Samsung 25 (original baby blue) and it's keeping the door from seating flush at the bottom.
3 - 510 really needs to be figured out. If that insulator's gonna fray, it's going to be nonstop problems We need a rock-solid 510 that can take a little abuse as we screw atties on and off, pull and push tight caps, etc...
I sanded the rough side edges and the contact point of the *SPARE COPPER positive leaf spring with 820 grit sand paper then polished with a cape cod cloth. I think it came out pretty..... Nice... Lol ::bling::
Haven't tried it yet I'll let you know.... I also have this brass and copper sealer that I bought and 2 coats have preserved atty accessories, drip tips, etc., but I'm wondering if it will interfere with the performance (?) and it's a permanent type of sealer.
Haven't tried it yet I'll let you know.... I also have this brass and copper sealer that I bought and 2 coats have preserved atty accessories, drip tips, etc., but I'm wondering if it will interfere with the performance (?) and it's a permanent type of sealer.
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Not sure I follow.
Sound like you overtightened and cut the insulator. Best to check it.
Nom nit the one pointed at (arrow labeled for an adapter of some sort). Random photo. Just for the correct nomenclature.
Look at what's in the mod and it's obvious.
I would just loosen the screws a turn or two and slide the fuse out.
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It was suggested, but it's a locally available item.
There's a .... load of spare/extra parts thar are harder to find than a fuse.
Paul posted he has a plan and we have a workaround using the spare fuse screw.
So take it out. It's just to prevent rattle w/o the ground spring.
It's not fraying. It's being cut when the center pin is pushed down too hard.
Switch to the deeper connector and use the o-ring and I doubt you'll have a problem.
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That concerns me. You may need to scrape.sand it off at the electrical contact points.
Plenty if anti0corrosion products thar are meant for electrical connections.
1. Some users attached a spare screw to the extra threaded hole in the negative plate. You don't have to trim any battery if you do that. It's at least a temporary solution. I'm working on a more permanent solution on this right now.
2. Check that white delrin piece in the back of the door. That parts bend (won't be level) if screwed too tight down. I found this out during the assembly process. That delrin piece is supposed to prevent the battery from contacting the door. Do not remove it. The instruction says this.
3. I'm sure after the dust settles, people will decide on what should be done with the 510, be it a more solid insulator or maybe a different 510. I made the mod highly "modular" for a reason.
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