One example (Ti):
D2: 0.432Ω
VTC Mini:0.44Ω
Another example (Ti):
D2: 0.309Ω
VTC Mini:0.33Ω
YMMV
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IPV D2 announced.
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D2: 0.432Ω
VTC Mini:0.44Ω
Another example (Ti):
D2: 0.309Ω
VTC Mini:0.33Ω
YMMV
Well, they are in the same value, if you take into account that the VTC does not show the third figure, which does the ipv D2. and that often the mathematical rounding rules are not follow. But the cause of the differences is not there, they are far too drifted away one another to name that culprit.
From now on, some little numbers, not-so-little numbers and some numbers to get upside-down....you've been warned!
In the high range (kanthal builds) IPV D2 shows 0,946 Ω (several measurements go ±1 in the last figure), 1,02 Ω in the VTC mini and 1,00 Ω in an eLeaf desktop ohm-meter (those which can measure battery voltages and atomizer resistances, little black box with two male 510 conectors and squared red LEDs). If you ask me, the best measurement has to be the IPV D2.
In the low range, some values I've been writing down, precisely those used to calculate TCR (which is B in the table):
You see, when the atomizers have been in both mods, they are essentially the same reading (like 0,148 Ω and 0,15 Ω, or 0,082 Ω and 0,09 Ω), apart from the rounding scheme (0,148 rounds up to 0,15, but 0,082 rounds up to 0,08, not 0,09). One can argue that imprecisions are eating us...and it's probably true, specially on those zero-dot-zero values.... but the error bars do not go together. Definitively my IPV D2 uses a much higher TCR for nickel than my EVIC VTC mini, which by the way appears to be a bit lower than desired.
My own values, taken from a table for Ni-200 metal, say it should be 0,00575 1/ºC, but it is likely tainted, up or down, by manufacturers to fine-tune their appliance to their desires (not to go beyond safeties, not to talk out of new customers with weak vape).
That's a linear regression over the four values between 20 ºC and 300 º C, which shows (0,00575 ± 0,0003) 1/ºC as TCR for Ni-200 in that range. It appears that Joyetech has chosen the lower portion of the error bar -which renders a bit less temperature on the wire than the user has set-, but YiHi, at least in my SX130H, uses a too high TCR, out the error bar, which renders some higher wire temperatures if they are compared to the user settings.
But we are done with numbers. The temperature control works really nice, you just adjust the setting to 20 - 30ºC less, and it works. If you ask me, even better than the EVIC VTC, but this one works really good too.
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Just because you add a liquid and space the wraps out does not change the dynamics of how a resistor works. You did spend some time writing a couple paragraphs of stuff and I appreciate your theory on how things work but I have to go with whats really happening.
That's absolutely true on an absolutely dried coil and with their wraps near enough. But once you space them enough, or if the wick is wet enough (and I should remember you that you vape with enough wetted wicks...), you'll get an evenly distributed heat dissipation.
That's why, at least with nickel, with the highest TCR in play, it is preferable to wrap spaced coils instead microcoils. Even wet and properly fed with not so much current, they are prone to overheat a bit in the middle, because there is less heat dissipation and more heat density if the wraps are not enough spaced, and with Ni-200 any temperature raising automatically adds noticeable resistance and aggravates the issue, and that ruins any consistent and precise temperature estimation based on resistances. Which, if you are sure that the maximum temperature is somewhat related to the mean temperature as it is seen by the mod, and it is not a dangerous one, is not so big problem.
That is how we've been vaping for some time, adjusting wattage (on mechanicals with resistance, on VW keying the proper wattage after some trial and error), and TC just adds the 'I'm detecting a somewhat dried coil, Sir!' warning.....
...not less, not more....
Well, I like it, as it smooths the vape in any atomizer, rendering the same exact vapour stream with the same flavour and throat-hit along almost all the atomizer moisture states, and it warns in the end, just with less vapour. It's a pity that some folks find it damn difficult to adjust and to get proper results, and it appears to be a bit too-technical to get it, because if it were plain-adjustable with some basic rules and just one button it would be the ideal noob-proof vaping technique...
...but it is not, not yet. Maybe some day.
Last night I ventured to resuscitate my Fogger (v2!) and I put a Ni-200 AWG 32 twisted (three wires strongly tightened with a power drill) and wrapped over a 2.5 mm core on it, which barely fits the housing, but at 0,082 ohms if works like a charm at 15W/230ºC -200 ºC on the IPV D2, more on that later-
It is not a sub-ohm RBA, it is from one or two generations before all this craziness about vaping RBA at more than 30W, but it works, once you accept it cannot provide more than 20W, in any circumstances.....
Fast forward to 21:54 watch the fleer camera in action on this coil, at the break Phil will explain that the outside edges are cooler and you can see this when he moves the coil around in from of the fleer camera. All resistors heat from the inside out no matter what.
Wow, Finally caught up 
. I've read every page and every post from page 1 to right here, took me the last several days to accomplish, but I am current. I am interested in this mod and might ask questions, BUT not ones that have been answered already 20 times. Very good thread by the way, Thanks All. I'll just be over here on the side, Learning as I read (I Hope). 
. I've read every page and every post from page 1 to right here, took me the last several days to accomplish, but I am current. I am interested in this mod and might ask questions, BUT not ones that have been answered already 20 times. Very good thread by the way, Thanks All. I'll just be over here on the side, Learning as I read (I Hope).
Sorry, at that time frame I did not catch anything meaningful about how coils get hotter in their middle portion if they're spaced......
And 'fleer' could be a good English pronunciation for FLIR (which I thought it was acronym of Forward Looking InfraRed, from military fields, but it is also an actual business devoted to infrared cameras, among other things, and the worldwide leader on this field for civilian purposes)....
...but it is FLIR, whatever you guys pronounce it. Here in Spain we dare to say much the same (our 'i' sounds like your 'ee', but much shorter), but I got bewildered for the 'fleer' thing. Remember, English is not my first language.
Well, I did not catch up with whatever Busardo demonstrated there, but take my word, as technician, if you like, because I really am one. A non-spaced coil should get hotter in the centre, but an ideal spaced one, if enough spaced, should not, because the heat generation is evenly distributed on the resistor, but in compressed coils the transmission of heat is not evenly distributed. That's why.
If you get a spaced coil, not so enough spaced, you start to see the not even distribution of temperature. And when they are wet, this is somewhat disguised, because the specific heat of liquids is way higher than gases. So they can get an evenly distributed temperature profile with just the space of the wire diameter between wraps, because the wet wick gets the heat in more quantities than air.
That was a weak response even if I did misspell the name of the camera lol. I am sorry but your wrong in this case, you can argue till your blue in the face but you cannot change the way a resistor behaves. Not sure why you even chose to argue the case since your a "tech" you should know this already. Ill let you get back to schooling everyone else, so sorry to take you away from what you were doing.
How about his. Prove your theory to everyone here and ill eat crow. I have no problem if I am wrong as this is how we learn new things.
Nice, just got mine today and mine says SX130H V3.0 A. Wonder why mine has the A? Is there a way to do a search on a specific thread on here? Trying to find out what the older firmware was without going through one hundred pages. That would be nice if I got the newest version, although I don't plan on using it in temp mode right away. Loving this little guy so far though. Does anyone know if they will be selling additional sleeves? Not the rubber ones but the actual metal sleeve?
And a picture for the thread.
ipvd2 by Sean Farrell, on Flickr
Love the custom work! Where did you get your wood grain? Really gives it a nice front office look!
I just ordered one today after mucking about looking at various mods over the last couple of weeks. I'll most likely be running it in power mode with a Kanger Subtank Mini with the 0.5 coils. I find it highly unlikely I'll ever need to use the full 75W, so I'm hoping the Kanger does well with it.
As much as I wanted the black version to go with the D2, this is why I ordered the plain silver STM. Supposedly whatever paint Kanger used isn't toxic to people but I still don't like the idea of paint in my juice.So while I have not had any issues with the paint on my D2, I have had a problem with the STM v2 I put on it. Apparently some brain surgeon, decided to paint the air tube inside the tank. From changing coils (or possibly the pg in juice or both), the paint has started to come off in pieces.
I found black pieces of paint floating in my juice.
Obviously drained, cleaned, and took out of rotation.
I ordered a bell cap to save the base, but wanted to give everyone with a black STM a heads up. Vaping paint flecks is no bueno!
I knew better and did it anyway. Same as you I did not want paint in my juice. I bought a bell cap and used the base.
Got a refund on the purchase so ended up ok.
Kudos to the vendor for refunding you so you're not out anything but a tank of juice.
I did explain it to you all, without maths, and I do not have the humor or the time to lecture anyone out of my natural fishbowl, mostly because beyond a certain point our forummates wouldn't find that amusing...
Imagine that, partial derivatives to vape...
It's utterly useless, whatever expert or common ground arbiter we might name.
So forget it, and use that info as you find suitable. Nice day.
Just bought my d2 today and it shows version 3. Any kind brothers or sisters know what is the difference between the versions?
This:
What's better than an IPV D2?...two of them of course. Got my silver version today. It included a case this time (in white) - although I have a transparent one in transit but probably won't use either one of them very often. The buttons seem slightly easier to press compared to my black one but it's nearly unnoticeable.
I'm not sure if it's been discussed but the firmware has been upgraded to V3 (SX130H V3.0), and from what I've noticed so far the ohms no longer show real-time fluctuations...it stays at the locked-in resistance. I've been using it for only a couple of hours and haven't noticed any other changes at this time...same great vape.
So here's some vape porn...topped with my EHPro Lil Boy RDA:
Plus, I've noticed the performance in Ti mode has improved whereas I don't need to increase the temperature as high as I need to on firmware v2. (I'm not sure about any difference in Ni mode since I don't use Ni wire.)
Thanks! It's just a 3m sticker I cut to fit it. I had been planning on wrapping it since before I ordered it. Pretty much did it right out of the box.
I figured it was a decal of some kind but was curious where you got it from. I don't think I've ever seen wood grained stickers before!
So I just ordered one of these for $45 shipped priority. I'm a bit short on time and patience as I'm ill. Can anyone nutshell what the debate is about? It looks to be a good enough mod for the money. In used to changing temp through a menu given my boxer mod.
What's he verdict. Do we like it? I couldn't find anything else with removable battery at his size or near the price. So I just sorts went for it.
Thanks guys. I promise there's a reason And it's not laziness in not reading the last fifty pages or so.
What's he verdict. Do we like it? I couldn't find anything else with removable battery at his size or near the price. So I just sorts went for it.
Thanks guys. I promise there's a reason And it's not laziness in not reading the last fifty pages or so.
It's very good. You'll like it. Enjoy it in the best of spirits.
I did explain it to you all, without maths, and I do not have the humor or the time to lecture anyone out of my natural fishbowl, mostly because beyond a certain point our forummates wouldn't find that amusing...
Imagine that, partial derivatives to vape...
It's utterly useless, whatever expert or common ground arbiter we might name.
So forget it, and use that info as you find suitable. Nice day.
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