IPV D2 announced.
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No, it increases power just fine. It just can't decrease below battery voltage in Power mode.
Then is that mod series cuz it goes up to 8.4v which I assumed you could just do by boosting a chip? And then the max amps is only 40 amps. Which is still pretty freakin good
Yes it is good.....On my IPVD2
I noticed the power to my atomizer stays constant as the batt wears down..
From first vape on a full charge till I change the batt out at 15% or so..
It remains constant....I like that, ALOT! lol
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What kind of battery do you use. I'm thinkng about going up to a vtc4. I'm running a samsung 25r but I noticed it cutting off when I was using a mostly depleted battery at 55 watts running at .4 ohms and I heard some guy earlier say that deleted batteries don't put out the max amps. The samsungs are rated for 20 amps. Time to upgrade to a 30 amp battery I guessYes it is good.....On my IPVD2
I noticed the power to my atomizer stays constant as the batt wears down..
From first vape on a full charge till I change the batt out at 15% or so..
It remains constant....I like that, ALOT! lol
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I'm using the red 38A/2600 mAh IMREN.. Goes about 8-9hrs vaping at 55w or so ... As a rule of thumb I never run batts rated under 30A in any of my VW mods...
Two seen here in the charger..
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Aren't imren just rewraps? I think there is no 38A / 2600 out there. All lies.
I stick to Samsung 25R. Because they produce them...
I stick to Samsung 25R. Because they produce them...
There are two things to consider here:
- how fast the temperature ramps up
- and how the mod regulates the temperature once it gets there
To low of a Joules setting and your vape may take a long time to reach temperature (if ever) however once at the temperature set point the actual regulation may be very smooth as the MOD has very little Joule/power setting to work with.
To high of a Joules setting and a perfectly good build may start displaying the temperature making wild jumps while the MOD attempts to regulate it at the set point. Worse case "dry coil" messages while the fire button is pressed for long and "rattlesnaking" (the MOD quickly switching between power off "dry coil" messages and power on attempts to regulate the temperature) which (I've read some reports) can make not only make the 'rattlesnake' sound or worse yet the vape is clearly "modulated" by having more then less then more vapor or hot then warm then hot again vapor.
The 'higher end' SX350J chips have TWO settings, one which applies to the "ramp up" Joules and power and the other being the Joules. In the D2 (and the IPV4S) only Joules is user adjustable.
On the iStick the MOD will fire at full power (depending on the ohms of the build the amount of power will vary as it has been reported that < 0.15ohms will fire at less than 40W because of limitations of the chip set used) until the set point is reached. Once the set point is reached a sometimes confusing "Temperature Protection" message will be displayed.
(the 'temperature protection' message can be emulated on both my SX chipped mods by setting the Joules to 40J and simply holding the fire button (without vaping), the difference here is that the SX will report "Dry coil" instead of the TC40's "Temperature Protection" message)
In conclusion, I'll generally start with a low Joules setting and use the memory set points (I recall they are 10, 20, 30, exc) to adjust as needed. Most builds I use a 20-30J setting works well. On my SXminiM I've currently set it to 15J 'Powerful' with the 0.3 ohm 30AWG Ni200 Lemo2 build I have mounted. On the Kanger subtank with a stock 0.15ohm coil mounted on the IPV4S I have it set to 20J. Temperature on all three mods (SxminiM, IPV4S, TC40) is set at 380F.
I hope this helps.
That's your choice I reckon..but Im not suffering from poor batt performance like you stated using the IMREN batts ...been using them in my other mods as well as the yellow 40A/ 2600 mAh AWT batts..
I don't judge what batts to use reading on some forum but how they perform in real life...and both of these batts have been awesome powering my low sub ohm builds for some time now.. and like I stated earlier I never use batts rated under 30A in any of my mods, including the IPV3, IPV4 and now my awesome little IPVD2...just sayin..[emoji12]
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You don't have to make a judgement reading about batteries on forums, the specs are available online. Further research will reveal there are no 40 amp batteries, and few true 30 amps. Momentary amp figures used to advertise are a sign I use to stay away from re-wraps etc.
Yeah man your right...but again I don't really care about specs when these batts I use work great with no issues at all...and if they weren't close to specs I would know it by now.. BTW, these batts were recommended and purchased at my local shop.. Its what they use, vaping them everyday...for me that says it all..
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Far as I know you didn't.. But it doesn't really matter.. This thread was supposed to be about the IPVD2... not a debate on battery specs and such..we sort've got way off topic...I'm done talking about batteries, lol
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My point is regulated mods have over current protection. So the only time using those high of amp batteries is really necessary is when using mech mods. So I'm not getting your point. But like I said I'm gonna upgrade my batteries and maybe I even will buy the mech. Tho I see no point in them now other than durability and I'll admit somewhat better reliability
Hi all, have a quick question for anyone using a uwell crown tank on the IPV D2
I picked up the IPV D2 a couple of days ago and started with the subtank mini and in coils. This works very well.
Yesterday I got the uwell crown tank delivered and tried it With the nickel coils. Unfortunately I seem to be having issues with this tank. First thing I noticed is that it doesn't seem to get up to temperature as quickly as the STM, so isn't really working in temp control. Second issue is that the tank gets very hot. Almost too hot to hold in your hand. Battery is also noticably warmer than with the STM.
The coil does seem to be wickimg well and I'm rattling through both juice and batteries, so may be the mod is a bit underpowered for this tank.
I picked up the IPV D2 a couple of days ago and started with the subtank mini and in coils. This works very well.
Yesterday I got the uwell crown tank delivered and tried it With the nickel coils. Unfortunately I seem to be having issues with this tank. First thing I noticed is that it doesn't seem to get up to temperature as quickly as the STM, so isn't really working in temp control. Second issue is that the tank gets very hot. Almost too hot to hold in your hand. Battery is also noticably warmer than with the STM.
The coil does seem to be wickimg well and I'm rattling through both juice and batteries, so may be the mod is a bit underpowered for this tank.
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More like you are New to TC and not getting it properly set up for the Tank/Coil configuration.
Slow heating up is a combination of settings.
You need enough Joules, but not to much, to reach set temp quick enough.
You need a proper Temp setting to get the warmth desired.
Seriously, even 2-3joules off or 5-10 degrees off and nothing seems to be working right.
Battery heat is a result of elongated continuous drain at higher than optimal amperage. Could be Time on or Battery of choice.
Maybe a few here can give you a few starting tips as many use the Uwell rta.
I do know the D2 should have no issue running it. Mine has run a Dual Nickel 28ga .1ohm Orchid tank flawlessly.
Slow heating up is a combination of settings.
You need enough Joules, but not to much, to reach set temp quick enough.
You need a proper Temp setting to get the warmth desired.
Seriously, even 2-3joules off or 5-10 degrees off and nothing seems to be working right.
Battery heat is a result of elongated continuous drain at higher than optimal amperage. Could be Time on or Battery of choice.
Maybe a few here can give you a few starting tips as many use the Uwell rta.
I do know the D2 should have no issue running it. Mine has run a Dual Nickel 28ga .1ohm Orchid tank flawlessly.
I'm not so worried a bout the battery heat, it's the temperature of the tank that doesn't seem right. The STM bearly warms up, where as the crown tank is too hot to hold in your hand after a few Vapes.
I've tried loads of settings, but even With the joules settings at 50J it doesn't hit the set temperature. Currently set at 430F with the resistance locked at .15ohm.
If I press the fire button and don't vape it reaches the target resistance of .35 ohms. But when I vape it only reaches .33 ohms. This gives a very cool vape, even though the tank is hot and Increasing the temperature setting makes no difference as it isn't reaching the current temp setting.
I've tried loads of settings, but even With the joules settings at 50J it doesn't hit the set temperature. Currently set at 430F with the resistance locked at .15ohm.
If I press the fire button and don't vape it reaches the target resistance of .35 ohms. But when I vape it only reaches .33 ohms. This gives a very cool vape, even though the tank is hot and Increasing the temperature setting makes no difference as it isn't reaching the current temp setting.
I'm starting to wonder if it is these companies prebuilt nickel coils. Have you tried building your own. That seems to produce good results for me.
I would say that is just how the tank is. My Atlantis gets way to hot for my comfort level, it could be nothing but I dont like it. My subtank just gets warm. These are at same ohm loads and settings.
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