IPV D2 announced.

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mecca7979

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Dang the paint was what I was worried about have an ipv mini 2 and it finally crapped out on me says check atomizer with any or no atomizer on it. But the paint was chipping and I put a skin on it hoping it would protect it but when it started acting funny I had to open it up to make sure it wasn't a loose connection and the paint completely peeled off as it was stuck to the skin. I was looking at the d2 but if I want to sell it to upgrade no ones gonna want something with the paint missing. But then again it is only $50 but the paint is kind of a big deal. But at this point it's such a good price if the performance is above average I'll just deal with it.
 

crxess

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Dang the paint was what I was worried about have an ipv mini 2 and it finally crapped out on me says check atomizer with any or no atomizer on it. But the paint was chipping and I put a skin on it hoping it would protect it but when it started acting funny I had to open it up to make sure it wasn't a loose connection and the paint completely peeled off as it was stuck to the skin. I was looking at the d2 but if I want to sell it to upgrade no ones gonna want something with the paint missing. But then again it is only $50 but the paint is kind of a big deal. But at this point it's such a good price if the performance is above average I'll just deal with it.


SOLD!

:lol::lol::lol:
 

mr.fabe

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Plasti-Dip the whole thing. :) Don't even need to mask it, it peels right off the display and buttons. Worked for my Cloupor Mini. And my car. And my motorcycle. And my phone. And my laptop.

Atomizers, not so much. :)

I tried that with another mod with paint issues. I sanded the mod thinking I would get a nice brushed finish but it ended up looking so bad that I decided to plasti-dip it. I prepped the surface and applied the plasti-dip per manufacturers directions. Nice in the beginning.. peeled before the end of the week. Not a good durable finish for me.
 

TruSound

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If you didn't receive or just don't like the silicone sleeve this faux CF wrap will buy you a little protection, at least on the battery door, I didn't think it conform to the contours but it actually does, they're 6 bucks shipped from WakeAndVape.
B6653DB0-9456-44B0-AE50-568C6018E012.jpg
 

Labubs

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If you didn't receive or just don't like the silicone sleeve this faux CF wrap will buy you a little protection, at least on the battery door, I didn't think it conform to the contours but it actually does, they're 6 bucks shipped from WakeAndVape.
B6653DB0-9456-44B0-AE50-568C6018E012.jpg

Wow, didn't think wraps would be available so soon...but your picture got me thinking, I wonder if we're ALL using black Subtank Minis on this little beauty! :D I just saw the black Subtank Plus was released on MyVaporStore, I wonder if there's enough room with the slightly larger than 22mm lip to allow it to sit flush...would be top heavy for sure, but it even comes with a ni200 coil! (as well as a .2 ohm nichrome 80 spare, looks like Kanger is gearing up a yet another batch of coil options after the verticals...)
 

crxess

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Wow, didn't think wraps would be available so soon...but your picture got me thinking, I wonder if we're ALL using black Subtank Minis on this little beauty! :D I just saw the black Subtank Plus was released on MyVaporStore, I wonder if there's enough room with the slightly larger than 22mm lip to allow it to sit flush...would be top heavy for sure, but it even comes with a ni200 coil! (as well as a .2 ohm nichrome 80 spare, looks like Kanger is gearing up a yet another batch of coil options after the verticals...)

Mine came with the Carbin fiber battery wrap and NO not all of us. I have a Dual coil Orchid on the D2.
Actually several have been on it already:D and they all work nice on there.:thumb:
 

Croak

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You want to tape off or plug charge ports, and of course the 510 threads and pin, and I might recommend taping off the display area on the D2 in the recess. The beauty of Plasti-dip is that it remains flexible even after curing, so you can trim the gaps around buttons or displays with knife and simply peel off the coating from the areas you don't want coated, nice and clean. Masking round buttons is tricky business, with PD you don't have to worry about it.

And if you screw up (get runs, or not enough coats, or don't wait long enough), just peel it all off and start over, it comes off clean.

Search Youtube for Plasti-dip, see how they work with the stuff to get a better idea. Tons of videos out there, mostly automotive applications. And it's cheap in the basic matte colors, about $3-$5 a can in the US. If you want to add gloss to it, or get more colors, then the price goes up, but it's still very inexpensive.

Just want to point out it was originally developed as a coating for tool handles, to provide better grip and make them stand out, and it's meant to be durable if properly applied.
 
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TheotherSteveS

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ok so what is the deal with the resistance reading. I think this is what Mike Vapes was seeing (and misinterpreting). Lock in resistance and all is fine. Fire it, displayed R increases but never comes back down to th resting value, even overnight...Vape is fine. Temp protection working great. Basically works well apart from this nonsense!

ps. system off/on makes no difference!
 
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MegaVap

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ok so what is the deal with the resistance reading. I think this is what Mike Vapes was seeing (and misinterpreting). Lock in resistance and all is fine. Fire it, displayed R increases but never comes back down to th resting value, even overnight...Vape is fine. Temp protection working great. Basically works well apart from this nonsense!

ps. system off/on makes no difference!

If I tap the fire button really quick it sometimes goes back to the set resistance. Weird :eek:
 

Scotticus93

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Wow, didn't think wraps would be available so soon...but your picture got me thinking, I wonder if we're ALL using black Subtank Minis on this little beauty! :D I just saw the black Subtank Plus was released on MyVaporStore, I wonder if there's enough room with the slightly larger than 22mm lip to allow it to sit flush...would be top heavy for sure, but it even comes with a ni200 coil!
(as well as a .2 ohm nichrome 80 spare, looks like Kanger is gearing up a yet another batch of coil options after the verticals...)
Mine currently has an og red and silver subtank mini. I'll admit it's a great combo. Especially when you are on the go and don't wanna drip and being lazy. Currently running .58 ohms at 33 watts
 

Scotticus93

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Something I've noticed with tc too is when I bump it up to 450 degrees I get a burnt taste. I don't think that's the same as a dry hit. Is that just too hot? I bumped it down to 400 and flavor and vp is decent but I swear it's better with a kanthal build. So is the idea behind tc you get to your sweet spot and it prevents dry hits and once vp drops off then you redrip?
 

Croak

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Pretty much, but do keep in mind your build and atomizer has a LOT to do with flavor, same as with Kanthal. Getting the right coil matched up with the right temperature setting matched up with the right amount of wicking in the right topper(s) to suit your tastes and the juice you're using takes a fair amount of trial and error for most folks. Once you dial it in though, I find that TC gives me a more consistent vape from start to finish. It's just getting there that's the hard part. :)
 
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