I'm running .28 ohm kanthal in temp mode. For some reason the titanium build made my lungs burn (I prolly shouldn't have bought it from that jewelry supply store )
IPV D2 announced.
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I am not a expert at any of this and I did not use your links but I do know that the signal on yihi boards are filtered after the inductor thru caps on the output to the 510. Im pretty sure Evolve does the same and they were the first I think to use caps to filter the signal removing the rattle snack effect that everyone does not like.
I think this is what you mean?
For those looking for the right Titanium wire:
Pure Titanium Wire 100% Guarantee Specific by UnkamenSupplies
Already vetted by several ECF members as reliable source of Quality wire.
This is where I also ordered mine - but still waiting on my tank to test.
Pure Titanium Wire 100% Guarantee Specific by UnkamenSupplies
Already vetted by several ECF members as reliable source of Quality wire.
This is where I also ordered mine - but still waiting on my tank to test.
That's the stuff I got, wire is supper dirty and must be cleaned with alcohol first. Still burns my lungs.
Starting to figure this out I think. 454 Big Block twisted 28 nickel 7 wraps 2.5mm .07ohms and its comparable to a kanthal build. I have to admit my first builds were pretty ....ty.
Why are some flavors better at the higher ohm and what wattage do you people throw at kayfuns at that reistance? I really am curious and trying to learn more. People always say to not sub ohm in kayfuns too
Yes, but it far predates Evolve. And the rattlesnake only appears at low frequency switching.
Did y'all know that little cig-alike Joye 510s and Joye eGos were using PWM switched mode regulation before 2010?
Then why bother to sub ohm? Like I said I don't super sub ohm or cloud chase but I don't see why I wouldn't want to get the most of my addys and mods. They used to be expensive and less safe with mech mods and rda's but now it's easier to look up info on it and much more affordable with Chinese companies and clones. So yes I want a more powerful vape to keep me off smokes. I used to smoke marb reds and don't wanna go back. Ymmv and do what you want hut with the safety there is now I think even beginners and people just quitting can and should sub ohm
I primarily use KFL+ V2s with 1.6-2.0 ohm coils at 8-10 watts. Mostly BWB Honey Flue Tobacco. Great taste, pleasant amount of vapor, easy on the throat, nothing over-heats while I chain vape all day, easy on the batteries, works well with my mechs and my regulated mods.
Whatever works for each individual is what is absolutely the best!
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The best reason I know of to sub-ohm is to get a hot vape out of a mech. (I don't like a hot vape.)
Again, uneducated. Sub ohming does not give a more powerful vape. Temp of coil and airflow are the factors. A 2 ohm coil can get just as hot as a .2 ohm coil at remarkably less watts. Same temp, same airflow....less watts.
Thanks for the quick replies. I guess you kind of a tootle puffer then? And like I said. I used to smoke reds so I like TH. I need to step my nic down. Accidentally mixed my stuff at 16mg and that's rough in a dripper. I'm gonna shoot for 10 to 12
I'm a Turtle puffer.
I smoked a wide variety over 38 years. My draw was light and smooth. I would get 7 or 8 minutes out of a .... while my wife chugged them down in 4 minutes. Still, I was at 2 and a half packs a day for all of those 38 years. One after another after another...
I'm glad you are off. Yeah my dad would smoke like that. I found I averaged 5 maybe 6 on the average cig. Let me know if you need anything. Sound like you know you're stuff. Yeah I think tootle puffers could easily go up to 20 watts but once you get over that. It gets hairy. I'm weird and I'll admit I take the hobby as to how high of wattage I can go without a dry hit. My personal record is about 40 or maybe it's 45 watts right now. Still trying to figure out a build to go 50 plus
I ordered Direct and my wire is spotless. Not sure what you got, but I never use Alcohol to clean anything on a Mod or Tank.......well...Vodka on occasion.
Doubt seriously it is the wire burning your throat unless it is mystery wire with something very wrong going on.
Woooh and please slow down Scott.
I am an ex-pack and 1/2-2 Pack a day red's smoker.....45+ years.
Trust me, it IS whatever works for YOU
NOT
What you think everyone else needs.
I might have stayed on my Ego/T3 tanks for years, but I like to play around and got interested in other devices.
I could have easily stayed with the Kayfuns and my Mech mods, but as Above - Interest.
None of my advancements have had anything to do with NEED since the Ego's.
I have also cut all my vaping to 3mg or less.
Again, What ever works for YOU.
Mechs required Low ohm builds to function adequately. People became accustomed and seem to be unable to break the beliet you need olw resistance coils to get a warm vape.
Regulated mods are here to prove that theory wrong.
Any build from Sub ohm to 3ohm and more can be controlled by properly designed regulated mods.
Imagine a coil with 12-16 wraps, heating Quick and Vaporizing smooth as silk.
Almost IMPOSSIBLE in a Sub-ohm Mechanical Mod but simple on a Regulated mod.
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Why indeed. "Sub-ohming" is a term introduced in the old days when VV/VW devices were not capable of producing high power output. Most devices in those days would max out at 6V, wouldn't allow resistances below 1.2 ohms, and would shut down if your exceeded 15W. You couldn't achieve high power output with those devices. Mechs, however, did not have these limitations. While you couldn't increase the voltage on your mech, you could build very low resistance coils, which allowed them to run at very high wattages (and therefore evaporate e-liquid at much higher rate). Hence, "sub-ohm" took on the meaning of "more powerful vape". This still applies to mechs. The lower the resistance, the more power output. The higher the resistance, the less power output (and weaker vape). Modern regulated devices have overcome the old limitations, and can easily match the power output of any mech at any resistance. So the term really has no meaning in today's regulated devices. Many people don't realize this.
SOLD!
Haha your right I am sold. I was a little worried about the paint issue but hearing how good the performance is I just had to pull the trigger. Just purchased one today at My Freedom smokes took advantage of their 17% off sale that ends tomorrow. For anybody that also wants to take advantage of it the coupon code is AUG17MFS and the IPV D2 will come out to $43.95. I was getting worried as I originally was looking at a different site but as I was trying to decide they sold out so I figured I might as well just do it before they get sold out everywhere.
Dear all , a very good day to all and i hope that my message finds everyone in good health and happily vaping their ipv D2's .
I do have one smalll question and would highly appreciate and answer / input on this one .
does the D2 have a " cutoff " as in .. when firing an atty , does it cut off automatically after 10 or 15 seconds !!
Highly appreciate your input and help .
thank you in advance .
Best wishes
Sahil
I do have one smalll question and would highly appreciate and answer / input on this one .
does the D2 have a " cutoff " as in .. when firing an atty , does it cut off automatically after 10 or 15 seconds !!
Highly appreciate your input and help .
thank you in advance .
Best wishes
Sahil
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