Whats that atty on your ipv?
size comparison and because everyone loves PICTURES
IPV D2 announced.
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Awesome thanks! i'll pair this one with a goblin mini or vector rda? I wanted really small and compact. What atty do you guys suggest?
that is a tobh clone with a trinity glass top cap. one of my faves!
Yes, I've got an RBA deck for the Subtank Mini, and even for the OBS T-VCT (though that deck is rather small). It doesn't matter though, as I really don't have time for building coils at home these days. Especially when I'm on the road half the time. Using stock replacement coil heads is just easier.
70vg/30pg would be too much PG for me. After my first year of vaping I developed an allergy to PG. Recently I've been able to go as high as a 80vg/20pg ratio, then thinned a bit further with distilled water. That is the best I can do with juice if the juice ingredients are very good quality. I'm just vaping tobacco mixes, staying away from overly sweet stuff and anything that uses NET type methods to provide the tobacco flavoring - which clogs things up pretty quick in a high VG juice.
Being limited to using stock coil heads most of the time, and having to use high VG juice, that makes things difficult for getting a consistently good vape. I just typically go through a lot of coil heads over time, which is lame.
So, back to my original question. Any ideas on where I should start out with my IPV D2 settings for mouth to lung hits using 0.25-0.30 stock ni200 OC heads in a sub ohm or Mini Nautilus type tank? I just wanted some ideas on where to start, and how much makes sense to adjust from where I start if necessary - without getting lost. The IPV D2 and TC is a new thing for me.
With the nautilus Ill venture a guess to maybe take the number of watts you would normally vape that tank at & use that as the number of joules you vape at in tc mode on the IPV D2. Then temp start at 380-390°F and work your way up in 10° increments.
This was also my first TC mod. Using the Kanger Ni200 OCC heads. I have been running mine with the Ni200 at 400f and 25j. Have been playing with the temp between 350f and 450f. Found that 400f was good for me with my Vanilla Custard DIY adv.
On a different topic, Used an old IGO RDA for tasting, and the form factor is really nice and small. Pic below.
Might wanna consider building your own coils. Especially for that subtank mini. Granted I have yet to try nickel premades and I may just go do that. But making your own coils will be a lot cheaper in the long run. Especially if you gunk them up all the time
Sorry to hear you don't have time to build coils. Understandable. So I'm sorry I suggested rebuilding. There's one other alternative. I find that you can buy prewrapped coils on fasttech or 101 if you wanna go state side. You just slide them in an rba and wick it. I find Japanese cotton the easiest to win with. Literally takes like a minute to cut and put in and wicks the best for me. That's just my two cents good Luck. I'm just trying to save you money. Idk what your budget is but those tc coils are like 3 or 4 bucks a pop and if they only last you like a day or 2...
Im kinda looking at the Sapor for a new one to try top airflow. They have it at angelcigs for 19.99+5 for shipping. Thats cheaper shipped than anywhere else ive looked. I think the vector is top air if I remember right. The sapor looks to be a little bit of a upgrade.
Mine should be here tomorrow..
I plan to use the Maganus with a Ni200 Atlantis coil ..yes it does fit
as I'm vaping it now on the IPV4..
Ordered the D2 because of its smaller size, hoping it'll be great vaping it down at the casino..stealthy size should fit easily in my shirt pocket.. Lol
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I plan to use the Maganus with a Ni200 Atlantis coil ..yes it does fit
as I'm vaping it now on the IPV4..
Ordered the D2 because of its smaller size, hoping it'll be great vaping it down at the casino..stealthy size should fit easily in my shirt pocket.. Lol
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
I received my IPV D2 from NW Vapers this afternoon and have been playing around with it this evening. I'm thankful it came with the silicone wrap. The wrap is open around where your topper would go, and on the bottom of the device - where the out gas vents are. The wrap is pretty thin, which was fine by me, but I can see it possibly tearing in the future after taking it on and off several times to switch out the battery.
I had to slip the wrap off to get the battery installed. The D2's finish actually looks pretty good, but I'm aware the black painted finish wears easily, so I'm glad to have the wrap. The battery cover was pretty tight, didn't rattle at all, and was actually pretty difficult to get off the first time. I'm using new eFest 2800 mah 35A batteries because that's just what I happen to have. 3 of them.
Slipping the silicone cover back on after installing the battery was difficult, as the battery cover kept wanting to slide off while I was doing it. This is because the wrap is fairly tight all around, including where the the D2 nicely tapers in at the bottom.
Setting up the D2 has taken a little getting used to as there are quite a few menu options, but it really isn't that complicated. You click the power button 5 times to bring up a menu that shows one option at a time, including shutting off the device - which you would click the + button to select. Clicking the power button again and again runs you through other options you can set with the + and - buttons. Then you power button through to the EXIT ON screen and click the + button to get back to vaping with the power button, and adjusting power with the + and - buttons. For TC mode, once your room temperature topper is screwed on, you just press the + and - buttons at the same time to read the resistance of the coil and lock that in.
My coil resistance readings tended to run a little high over what was expected by about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. I understand that is fairly normal. During normal TC operation the rather small, but bright when in use, screen displays joules with easily readable numbers, but the max temp setting and current ohm reading are rather small and difficult to read. Remaining battery power is well displayed, but just shows and simple and typical progress type bar, not a percentage.
I first tried on a Mini Nautilus with vAir-T ni200 0.25 ohm coils. A few Domestic U.S. reviews on these coils have been bad, but UK reviews have been good, so I had no idea what to expect. I slowly ramped power up from 10J to about 13.5-14J, with max temp set from between 370F and 395F. After several minutes of vaping, and finally starting to get fairly good results (with no dry hits), the coil just simply died. I'll see how well the rest of these I have work out, but I'm expecting they may all equally disappoint me. Next time I'll try the twice as expensive Vaporshark Mini Nautilus coils. No bad reviews of those I've read so far, but I'm not sure $17 for a 5-pack is worth it. The vAir-T coils where $8 for a 5-pack, so of course I bought 2. You get what you pay for, so buyer beware.
Next up was the OBS T-VCT 6ml juice capacity top fill sub ohm tank, using 0.25 ohm ni200 coils. Though not a perfect design (it leaks when the juice is low), the tank itself is pretty nicely made and has a nice combination of features. I got it on sale for $20, plus $10 for its RDA I may never use. Once again I started at low joules, and low max temp setting, and have been slowly ramping up both power and max temp from there.
So far so good with this OBS tank. I'm using a narrow drip tip combined with the air intake turned way down low for MTL vaping. I'm currently running the setup at 13J with max temp still set at a low 370F. That seems to work pretty well for MTL hits. My current juice is 12mg high VG stuff, but I've got some 6mg max VG juice coming in to try out soon. That'll let me run this setup for more vapor without getting too much of a nicotine burn. For sub ohm'ing with this tank, I'd definitely drop the nicotine down to 3mg or even 1.5mg as the throat hit can get that harsh when you turn everything up.
Thank you to those who gave me suggestions on where to start with my initial settings, and how high I should eventually be aiming for mouth to lung vaping with this device. Starting low and slowly working up has worked out well. It looks like I'll be keeping max temp under 400F, but will further increase power up from 13-14J as I decrease the percentage of nicotine I'm using in my juice. I'm keeping max temp down because tight, low airflow mouth to lung hits tends to run a bit hot with the joules set high enough to get satisfactory vapor production.
I had to slip the wrap off to get the battery installed. The D2's finish actually looks pretty good, but I'm aware the black painted finish wears easily, so I'm glad to have the wrap. The battery cover was pretty tight, didn't rattle at all, and was actually pretty difficult to get off the first time. I'm using new eFest 2800 mah 35A batteries because that's just what I happen to have. 3 of them.
Slipping the silicone cover back on after installing the battery was difficult, as the battery cover kept wanting to slide off while I was doing it. This is because the wrap is fairly tight all around, including where the the D2 nicely tapers in at the bottom.
Setting up the D2 has taken a little getting used to as there are quite a few menu options, but it really isn't that complicated. You click the power button 5 times to bring up a menu that shows one option at a time, including shutting off the device - which you would click the + button to select. Clicking the power button again and again runs you through other options you can set with the + and - buttons. Then you power button through to the EXIT ON screen and click the + button to get back to vaping with the power button, and adjusting power with the + and - buttons. For TC mode, once your room temperature topper is screwed on, you just press the + and - buttons at the same time to read the resistance of the coil and lock that in.
My coil resistance readings tended to run a little high over what was expected by about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. I understand that is fairly normal. During normal TC operation the rather small, but bright when in use, screen displays joules with easily readable numbers, but the max temp setting and current ohm reading are rather small and difficult to read. Remaining battery power is well displayed, but just shows and simple and typical progress type bar, not a percentage.
I first tried on a Mini Nautilus with vAir-T ni200 0.25 ohm coils. A few Domestic U.S. reviews on these coils have been bad, but UK reviews have been good, so I had no idea what to expect. I slowly ramped power up from 10J to about 13.5-14J, with max temp set from between 370F and 395F. After several minutes of vaping, and finally starting to get fairly good results (with no dry hits), the coil just simply died. I'll see how well the rest of these I have work out, but I'm expecting they may all equally disappoint me. Next time I'll try the twice as expensive Vaporshark Mini Nautilus coils. No bad reviews of those I've read so far, but I'm not sure $17 for a 5-pack is worth it. The vAir-T coils where $8 for a 5-pack, so of course I bought 2. You get what you pay for, so buyer beware.
Next up was the OBS T-VCT 6ml juice capacity top fill sub ohm tank, using 0.25 ohm ni200 coils. Though not a perfect design (it leaks when the juice is low), the tank itself is pretty nicely made and has a nice combination of features. I got it on sale for $20, plus $10 for its RDA I may never use. Once again I started at low joules, and low max temp setting, and have been slowly ramping up both power and max temp from there.
So far so good with this OBS tank. I'm using a narrow drip tip combined with the air intake turned way down low for MTL vaping. I'm currently running the setup at 13J with max temp still set at a low 370F. That seems to work pretty well for MTL hits. My current juice is 12mg high VG stuff, but I've got some 6mg max VG juice coming in to try out soon. That'll let me run this setup for more vapor without getting too much of a nicotine burn. For sub ohm'ing with this tank, I'd definitely drop the nicotine down to 3mg or even 1.5mg as the throat hit can get that harsh when you turn everything up.
Thank you to those who gave me suggestions on where to start with my initial settings, and how high I should eventually be aiming for mouth to lung vaping with this device. Starting low and slowly working up has worked out well. It looks like I'll be keeping max temp under 400F, but will further increase power up from 13-14J as I decrease the percentage of nicotine I'm using in my juice. I'm keeping max temp down because tight, low airflow mouth to lung hits tends to run a bit hot with the joules set high enough to get satisfactory vapor production.
Baby powder inside Silicone cover. Easy slippy slide
Always remove/install from the opposing end to Compress and make fatter while moving
Always remove/install from the opposing end to Compress and make fatter while moving
These vAir-T Nautilus 0.25 ohm ni200 coil heads really suck. Every one I've tried read at 0.75-0.85 ohms or so when I try to lock the reading on them on the D2, but then the D2 shows them at 0.95 or so ohms, then 0.00 ohms, and then displays that I should check the atomizer. They simply are not working at all. My first one that failed in less then an hour was the best of the lot so far. At least it actually worked for awhile. The rest can't even do that. I will certainly never buy them ever again, and highly recommend no one else ever does either. I'm surprised any reputable sellers bothers to stock these at all. I think they are just stuck with them and hoping to eventually sell them off to suckers like me. That's annoying.
That is bothersome and a waste of money so piss on them. I would get some Vapershark heads like you said they should work well.
Well I got the D2 a few hrs ago..it's alot smaller than I thought!
Disappointed with the Ni200 coil in the Atlantis..but it does hit really good with the .2 ohm coil in the Arctic..Negative
batt tab uses a piece of metal instead of a spring and may break in time..dosent look too strong to me..
For that reason I'll probly use the charge cord that came with it...time will tell if I like this little mod or not...lol
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I totally agree. I've got some Vaporshark Ni200 coils on order from Refuel Vapor in California for $20.24, including priority UPS shipping. For now I'm playing with using the OBS tank. That has been hard to get running in a consistent way so far for mouth to lung hits, or even lung hits. I keep having to take the tank off, take it apart, wipe off any possible excess juice (if any), put it back together, then put it on again and re-lock the ohm reading. Then it seems to run fine for awhile, then it doesn't. Ramping joules and max temp up a bit helps, but only temporarily, then I get very little vapor again. Once the on screen display is showing 0.50 ohms is about when vapor really drops off. Weird and frustrating.
There is a spring under that tab at least in my there is. I was thinking it did not need to be such a strong spring its quite tight.
Well I got the D2 a few hrs ago..it's alot smaller than I thought!
Disappointed with the Ni200 coil in the Atlantis..but it does hit really good with the .2 ohm coil in the Arctic..Negative
batt tab uses a piece of metal instead of a spring and may break in time..dosent look too strong to me..
For that reason I'll probly use the charge cord that came with it...time will tell if I like this little mod or not...lol
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