IPV D2 announced.

[rhelton]

Read that with the ipv d2 it uses pwm for tc whereas the dna40 uses step down dc-dc. Does this effect the tc in any significant way? Or will I be happy with the ipv d2's capabilities? I ask because I have yet to use the temp control.

All of these boards use PWM. Yihi uses a pulse to control their TC system. Which is why you get that smooth pulsing sound in TC mode. In power mode on the SX boards its a PWM signal that is filtered thru capacitors so the user end signal is flat. All dna's are PWM, the signal is filtered with capacitors so at the user end its a flat signal. Evolve boards in TC just dump the power off when you hit temp. You do not hear a pulsing sound with the Evolve boards in either mode.

I dont think the signal on the SX boards in TC is offending at all. I kinda try to tune my vape by the sound, if you can get it to a nice smooth pulsing sound it usually vapes pretty well.

 

[crxess]

Back to report:
Broke the tank down and found the Wick had gotten torched from the Ni mode mistake.
Wick also sized and lost a lot of coil contact making wicking ......err...Bad.
Coil Still looked Good with a darker blue tent so will reuse.

Ran it through a 15 minute cleaning in the Ultra Sonic cleaner with a little Orange cleaner mixed in. Was careful removing and kept the Ti coil for further testing.
Got everything Dried off and wiped well and reassembled.
Slightly pinched the coil to close the Spread a bit for better Air distribution over the coil, but still spread coil.
Laid in a slightly thicker Wick and did the Tuck instead of Channel fill.
Second Test had to change Flavors as I wasted the last of the Cappuccino and the next batch isn't steeped yet.
Second test going with a Light Sugar cookie that has been in steep a bit to long. Turning very dark and smell test is light but nice.

Second test started with :
Ti Mode
Lock @ .33
430F/25J
Tank open 6 turns

Vape was surprisingly warm with plenty of Vapor however Flavor was almost nil.
Backed settings to 400F/20J
Can pull 6-8 seconds(old lungs) and Vape is mellow with acceptable Vapor and distinct but light Sugar Cookie. Nasal exhale boost flavor nicely.
Will play a bit with Joules and temp to see if I can fine tune but things are 100% better this time around.
Hmmm.....
Going to settle or 405F/20J for a bit and see how it progresses with break-in.
D2 is performing steady and well
KS Tank is a concern as it may not feed properly in this wick configuration when Low on Liquid. Channels may wash out(lose liquid)

 

[Daisychainvaper]

People on FT report they got it with sleeve

 

[Mactavish]

Back to report:
Broke the tank down and found the Wick had gotten torched from the Ni mode mistake.
Wick also sized and lost a lot of coil contact making wicking ......err...Bad.
Coil Still looked Good with a darker blue tent so will reuse.

Ran it through a 15 minute cleaning in the Ultra Sonic cleaner with a little Orange cleaner mixed in. Was careful removing and kept the Ti coil for further testing.
Got everything Dried off and wiped well and reassembled.
Slightly pinched the coil to close the Spread a bit for better Air distribution over the coil, but still spread coil.
Laid in a slightly thicker Wick and did the Tuck instead of Channel fill.
Second Test had to change Flavors as I wasted the last of the Cappuccino and the next batch isn't steeped yet.
Second test going with a Light Sugar cookie that has been in steep a bit to long. Turning very dark and smell test is light but nice.

Second test started with :
Ti Mode
Lock @ .33
430F/25J
Tank open 6 turns

Vape was surprisingly warm with plenty of Vapor however Flavor was almost nil.
Backed settings to 400F/20J
Can pull 6-8 seconds(old lungs) and Vape is mellow with acceptable Vapor and distinct but light Sugar Cookie. Nasal exhale boost flavor nicely.
Will play a bit with Joules and temp to see if I can fine tune but things are 100% better this time around.
Hmmm.....
Going to settle or 405F/20J for a bit and see how it progresses with break-in.
D2 is performing steady and well
KS Tank is a concern as it may not feed properly in this wick configuration when Low on Liquid. Channels may wash out(lose liquid)

Appreciate your continued feedback on builds.

A D2 question for anyone as this is my first TC MOD.

I have read some limited things about other TC mods, like the DNA boards, clones etc. and whatever board is in the iStick 40 which my friend owns, and keep hearing about the onscreen display showing when the device reaches the set "temperature protection". Since I have yet to see this on the D2, I assume it's only offered on the DNA boards or more expensive yihi boards. I ran a brief, ill advised test by turning up my temp settings and joules to the MAX, and chain vaped without inhaling. I got a nice steaming hot juice dump out of the newest Kanger SubTank AFC holes onto my hand. I guess I boiled the juice in the Kanger .12 TC PRE-made coil, but never saw any warning of temp reached. I was not doing this in front of a mirror, so I may have missed it, then again maybe the D2 board does not give this info, as I've never seen anything like a warning no matter my lower, normal settings. Seeing the joules bounce around while firing, does not seem like much useful information, while having a temp protection reached indication would seem almost a necessity?

 

[crxess]

People on FT report they got it with sleeve

It was random with availability.
Many of us received D2's with sleeve.

Nailed the settings:
Ni mode
405F/22J
Nice Flavor and Vapor production. Warm, not hot....Just like I like it. Coil just starts to crackle. Flavor increased and vapor jumped dramatically.

 

[Croak]

Appreciate your continued feedback on builds.

A D2 question for anyone as this is my first TC MOD.

I have read some limited things about other TC mods, like the DNA boards, clones etc. and whatever board is in the iStick 40 which my friend owns, and keep hearing about the onscreen display showing when the device reaches the set "temperature protection". Since I have yet to see this on the D2, I assume it's only offered on the DNA boards or more expensive yihi boards. I ran a brief, ill advised test by turning up my temp settings and joules to the MAX, and chain vaped without inhaling. I got a nice steaming hot juice dump out of the newest Kanger SubTank AFC holes onto my hand. I guess I boiled the juice in the Kanger .12 TC PRE-made coil, but never saw any warning of temp reached. I was not doing this in front of a mirror, so I may have missed it, then again maybe the D2 board does not give this info, as I've never seen anything like a warning no matter my lower, normal settings. Seeing the joules bounce around while firing, does not seem like much useful information, while having a temp protection reached indication would seem almost a necessity?

With a Yihi chip you'll see the "No Liquid" message when there's no wick or a very dry wick, but other than that it doesn't give false positives like Evolv's boards and the clones that followed after. Which IMHO is a good thing.

It just tries to hit the temp you set, and as long as it can supply some amount of power to maintain temps, it'll keep on trucking, only giving the no liquid message when the power needed to reach the temp is very low.

In your experiment, it worked as intended. I'm assuming you had temps set to max, which is about 150 degrees F over the phase change point of PG, and about 70 degrees F higher than the boiling point of VG, and then you told it to reach that temp as fast as possible with the max joules setting.

So why would it warn you that it exceeded temps when it did NOT exceed them, it just gave what you asked for? For that matter, an Evolv board would have burnt your hand too. It's like blaming an oven for not warning you the cake you were baking would burn when you had it set to 600F instead of 400F.

 

[VapeGyver]

[HASHTAG]#Mactavistock[/HASHTAG]

The indicator for when your max temp setting is reached is "no liquid". I have vaped several wicks dry(to where they turn bright white & you can visually tell the wicked is dry) with my temp setting set to as high as 430° F. BTW I have not gotten a single dry hit while vaping in TC mode.

 

[VapeGyver]

# Cress

I recently tried NI200 builds on my orchid. I have already used a file to round the bottoms of the screws & used a needle file to try & grind the sharp edges off the post holes but it is still clipping my 26g NI200. Granted there wasn't much room to get the file in the post holes. There is no way I can find enough room to trap the wire under the screw heads (even with screws with bigger heads). I'm using 26g I ran out of 28g. There is barely enough room to get the coils I need in there (gotta be at least. 1ohm for compatability with other devices) as it is & then the wire gets cut. I twist 2 strands of NI200 next to each other on a 2.5mm rod (tried 2mm & 3mm also) then just unwind them for perfect spacing. Anything I'm missing here? Any suggestions?

 

[Croak]

@VapeGyver try doubling of the end of the leads, see if that helps with the post holes.

 

[jstrong]

Anybody else have their tank scratch the paint on top? SMH

 

[crxess]

A different atomizer maybe?

Seriously, the tank I built on is pitiful for attaching wire. Flat screw coming down on thin post(very thin)
I use 26ga. and take my time. Connection is rock solid.

Practice is the most important thing. With time even the most aggrivating Builds get easier.

Spaced coil means non-contact. the coils do not need to be very far apart. The KS Tank has a pretty small build chamber but a 7/8 spaced wrap fits with room to spare.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

People on FT report they got it with sleeve

Gettin there.

oops wrong post replied to.

 

[Mactavish]

With a Yihi chip you'll see the "No Liquid" message when there's no wick or a very dry wick, but other than that it doesn't give false positives like Evolv's boards and the clones that followed after. Which IMHO is a good thing.

It just tries to hit the temp you set, and as long as it can supply some amount of power to maintain temps, it'll keep on trucking, only giving the no liquid message when the power needed to reach the temp is very low.

In your experiment, it worked as intended. I'm assuming you had temps set to max, which is about 150 degrees F over the phase change point of PG, and about 70 degrees F higher than the boiling point of VG, and then you told it to reach that temp as fast as possible with the max joules setting.

So why would it warn you that it exceeded temps when it did NOT exceed them, it just gave what you asked for? For that matter, an Evolv board would have burnt your hand too. It's like blaming an oven for not warning you the cake you were baking would burn when you had it set to 600F instead of 400F.

I'm not blaming anything, trying to learn, everything else you said makes sense. My little test was just that, "little", but I wanted to see what would happen. The first thing I did when I got this mod was run a SubTank dry, and did eventually get the no liquid message. So for anyone else reading this, there is NO "temperature protection" message given with this mod and Yihi board, whether that's good or bad can be debated. Know we know.

 

[Mactavish]

[HASHTAG]#Mactavistock[/HASHTAG]

The indicator for when your max temp setting is reached is "no liquid". I have vaped several wicks dry(to where they turn bright white & you can visually tell the wicked is dry) with my temp setting set to as high as 430° F. BTW I have not gotten a single dry hit while vaping in TC mode.

First thing I did when I got this mod using the Kanger TC coil, also did a burnt cotton test on an old Egrip RBA. The "no liquid" warning is not the kind of "indicator ", I am referring to, as seen on DNA boards, they supposedly tell you when you have reached or exceeded your set temp, though I have never owned one myself.

 

[jstrong]

Gettin there.View attachment 482914 oops wrong post replied to.

Mine scratched after 1 day

 

[Croak]

With a DNA40, the only time you should see "temp protected" before the wick is dry is when you've got a build problem, or the most common reason, your set wattage is MUCH higher than it needs to be. With a DNA, "temp protected" is basically telling you that it can't put out the requested wattage because it's already hitting your set temp, and has to pull back on power quite a bit.

For example, a 0.15 ohm 30ga coil in a Kayfun, 6-7 wraps on a DNA40. Set wattage to 40 and temp to 420, and you'll for sure see "temp protected" very early in the pull, and you'll see actual applied wattage somewhere in the teens or lower. Same setup, but reduce set wattage down to 20w, you probably won't EVER see "temp protected" as long as there's juice in the tank. That's because the delta between requested wattage and actual isn't so large. But the actual quality of vape between setting it to 20w with no message, or 40w with the message, is identical.

Yihi pretty much said screw that noise, just let them know when we think the wick is dry, and let them vape with no worries before that.

 

[Mactavish]

Anybody else have their tank scratch the paint on top? SMH

When I first considered this mod purchase and looked at the top design I knew the paint would wear in that area, who cares, at $40 these are in the end, disposable! Now as far as bad paint jobs in the short term, they could certainly do better as some do care about looks for the longer term. Personally I'm using the silicone sleeve as I like the feel and don't mind wrestling with it when I need to swap batteries. As I've learned with all my past inexpensive Chinese mods, I don't fall in love with them, as there will be a newer, better, shinier one not far down the road. Now if my Reo 14500 black anodized mod got scratched up, I would not be as casual about it, cost 4x as much, but that's one of the reasons I picked the anodized finishes in the first place. As long as the D2 works properly I'll be happy.

 

[MotoMudder]

People usually vape 300 plus from what I've heard? So that's strange. Could be something wrong with your mod. Are you sure your connection screws are all the way down and the atty screwed down flush? Double check that. It can make or break how a tc build runs

Yea everything was tight, I've pulled that tank apart 3 times before. This time I just ripped the coil out, wrapped another with 12 wraps, and it gave me .164ohms, which is just a few off. juiced up it seems to work, 212f didnt give me anything for vapor.

Lemo2 coil mounts are a PITA, this time I just wrapped the wire around the screw kayfun style, it holds.
We'll see how it goes.

 

[Scotticus93]

Idk why you guys are surprised by the scratches on top if we all know the paint on the mod scratches so easily? At least no one really ever sees that part. Btw I changed my nickel coil out today. Was running bourbon e e liquid in it and after only maybe a week and like 8 millieters it gunked the coil. Haven't found a way to dry burn cuz when I did try it said "no liquid" and I'm terrified to run it in power mode cuz I was told not to do that with nickel. Luckily nickel wire is cheap but I might just start prebuilding my coils and saving them for later if I can't dry burn.

 

[Scotticus93]

Yea everything was tight, I've pulled that tank apart 3 times before. This time I just ripped the coil out, wrapped another with 12 wraps, and it gave me .164ohms, which is just a few off. juiced up it seems to work, 212f didnt give me anything for vapor.

Lemo2 coil mounts are a PITA, this time I just wrapped the wire around the screw kayfun style, it holds.
We'll see how it goes.

That sounds more accurate what's the id on your coil. I'm getting like .13 ohms with 10 wraps around 3mm screwdriver. I've also been told te d2 resistance measurement is slightly off which is a bummer. Maybe I'll get an sx mini if i ever get enough extra money lol. Also try a build in a different topper. Possibly a dripper and see if you get different results