That sounds like a no.. yes you can use a multimeter, it's easier to do with an ohm reader. First check the coil and make sure it's not touching anything but the posts with its lead wires, and the wick. It can't be bumping against the bottom or side of the atomiser or anything else. Then check it with the ohm reader and it should be close to what you calculated. If the number is way off, or bouncing around, or it's giving you 0.00 or error or something like that, then something is wrong and you need to redo it.I believe that you use a multimeter for that. I think ?
That sounds like a no.. yes you can use a multimeter, it's easier to do with an ohm reader.
Well I trust mine more than my multimeter, they can be pretty accurate. (My multimeter IS junk though, only use it to test battery voltage and check for shorts in mods. What's a good one?)I would like to politely dispute this statement. Again I will say please. PLEASE use a good multimeter for checking Ω. The $10-$20 ohm-checkers are just that... $10-$20. Spend an extra $20 or so and buy a good multimeter for a more accurate and safe measurement.
Sorry about not getting back to you on the suggestion of RDA's, I was at work. I use a Helios RDA for cloud chasing as it has 4 holes at 5/64in diameter. The TOBH is another good atty for sub ohm builds. The Stillare is a good atty for .5 ohms and above as is the Caterpillar. As everyone else has said already you really should do a lot of research on Mods, Batteries, Safety, Ohms Law, and RDAs before jumping in having at it.
My progression in to the Vapeing world started with an Ego twist with top wick CE4 tanks, the tanks did me no justice so I got a Mini Protank 2. After a while of using the twist one of my friends showed me the MVP V2 and how to use one, I fell in love with it, went out and got one, and to this day still use it as my standard vape. When I got my MVP V2 I also picked up an Aspire ETS BDC Glass tank and never went back to the Protank 2. Back in late April early May I heard about this new RDA on these very forums called the Caterpillar and how well people liked them, I got one and toyed around with coil builds using 32 gauge wire and building coils at around 1.5 to 1 ohm. My wife got me a Caravela 18350 Mechanical mod and my introduction into Mech Mods began. Last month I got a Helios and a Copper Nemesis and started working around the .7 ohm to .5 ohm levels on 26 gauge wire. I then got some 24 gauge and started to work with that and now I have a set of 24 gauge Macro dual coils at .25 ohms that makes huge clouds in my Helios and a set of 30 gauge twisted micro coils at .51 ohms in my Caterpillar that produces really nice flavor.
I guess the point of this long winded post is that you should never jump in with both feet and hope for the best, you have to take small steps before you can run.
Been looking in to sub ohming what is the best set up
Been looking at the GG
im really worried about this box mod because i dont know when i should charge my batteries![]()
So i did my final researching and this is my final setup. Feel free to tell me what you think
Dna30 by cloupor (Black) from VapeHappy
A Stillare Clone (black) by infinite from vivid smoke and so as vtc5 18650.
Some pre wrapped coils and some cotton
I should be going at 0.5 ohms.
This is why I do not think you are ready for this step.... if you can't answer these questions with certainty and conviction, then you still have research to do. You still have learning to do.I believe that you use a multimeter for that. I think ?
If the pre-wrapped coils that you are buying are already set at 0.5 ohms, only put 1 coil in the Stillare. If you put two of them in parallel, then your resistance is going to equal ~0.25 ohms... It still scares the crap out of me that you are insisting on going sub-ohm at this point in your vaping journey.
This is why I do not think you are ready for this step.... if you can't answer these questions with certainty and conviction, then you still have research to do. You still have learning to do.
Trust me, I understand the allure of blowing huge, cool clouds... but those vids you see on youtube or whatever are done by people that have done the homework and put in the time to figure out how to do it as safely as possible... I'm not trying to beat you up, sumiquatchim... it's just that for making the leap you are trying to make, you are asking all of the wrong questions... you should already know those answers yourself... the questions you should be asking are about wicking and technique, not what wire/mod/atty do I use or how do I check for a short...
The truth is i live in iran. I cant get that .... here and so as shipping. I will be shipping this to my grandma's house that when she arrives here i can receive my package.DNA mod would be good. I don't have one but they seem to get good reviews. You do not need to sub ohm to get high power (and lots of vapor) if you have a vv mod like the DNA. Sub ohm coils are for mech mods, because you can't control the voltage of them you can only increase power with lower ohm coils. You don't need to do that on vv/vw mods. Going too low actually limits the mod and will probably give you less vapor because of that. I'm not sure about the ideal resistance for DNA mods but I'm sure it's higher than .5. If you build, say a dual micro coil at 1.0 with a lot of wraps, and run it at 30 watts, it will probably give you better vapor production than a 0.5 single coil at the same wattage.
Grand ma lives in canada shes coming soon. I might want to get some eliquid from canvape but i dont know if their safe.The truth is i live in iran. I cant get that .... here and so as shipping. I will be shipping this to my grandma's house that when she arrives here i can receive my package.
So i have one chance on getting what i want. I also want a lot of vapor. Lets say a cloud chasers dream. 70 watts most .0.25 ohms.