Here in lies the reason some people who have tried it still don't get it. Far too many people assume that their sub-performing PV/rba is set up correctly, while having zero evidence or reason to assume so...
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Did you try doing a SLR coil using 28g wire? I know a lot of people just try to make a sub ohm coil using 30g or even 32g wire and they think the flavor is off and it tastes burnt.....etc. YOU really have to use 28g and below for SLR coils to work right....and for me the taste is way better than higher ohm coils on regulated devices.
I disagree you can get a sub ohm working just fine with 30g... I use primarily 30ga 4 wraps and get .7-.8 and I dont get burnt taste... I use 30ga for higher ohms too... Like a 5-6 wrap for the Provari. I just like 30ga it is easy to work with like 32, lower resistance and avoids poping like 28.
overall I've found that 28 works best for surefire sub 1.0 Ohms; 4 wraps gets me .9 very consistently.
Had a lot of pops but overall it seems the most user friendly for sub 1.0 ...
Had a lot of pops but overall it seems the most user friendly for sub 1.0 ...
Oh not saying 28 ga is bad for sub ohm, just saying that I prefer 30 ga. Personal prefrence you know.
Looking at the numbers if you are getting a .9 on a 4 wrap 28 and im getting .7-.8 on 30 ga 4 wrap our wicks are VERY differnt... Yours is alot thicker and mine is alot thinner... or some other way you are getting alot more wire in there than I am.
I have never popped a 28g wire before.....and I think the 28g wire is way easier to work with than 30g wire which is far easier to work with compared to 32g wire. The 28 wire is so thick that I never have problems with shorts. I set up using a drill bit and once i fit the wick it takes about five seconds of throttling the switch to get all the coils glowing evenly. All you have to do is use the PetarK method of wrapping the coils around the bit using pliers. I also use pliers to pull and then wrap the positive lead around the positive post. As long as there is no slack in the coils going around the wick you will never have a hots spot that can't be gotten rid of in a matter of seconds by pulsing the switch.
The only reason I prefer mechanical mods over VV devices is that I can use 28g wire effectively on a mechanical.
The only reason I prefer mechanical mods over VV devices is that I can use 28g wire effectively on a mechanical.
I haven't really tried 28g kanthal yet, I currently use a flat ribbon wire that's supposed to have the resistance per length with a 28 kanthal. I really love this flat wire, but I have yet to compare it with 28g. really want to try one soon, but i'm not expecting a big difference, probably no difference at all though.
yes... should have said wick width comes into play too... theres a few factors in getting it right and different ways and different preferences.
btw.... sub 1.0 and over 1.0 narrows down different directions too... different ball game.
btw.... sub 1.0 and over 1.0 narrows down different directions too... different ball game.
The ONLY reason to use a kick in a mechanical in my opinion is if you want a regulated vape with a mod that can take more abuse than normal. Or if you just happen to love the look and function of a specific mechanical.
Otherwise there is no point really. On a lot of the RBAs hitting the market (THE reason why mechanicals have made a huge comeback) you can barely tell that your voltage is slowing dropping.
I mean ... I can vape for 2-3 days on a mechanical going from 24 watts to ... maybe 10-12? And on my genesis I have an outstanding vape from start to finish. Granted I generally change my battery well before then but that is still something you will never do on a regulated circuit.
Regulated mods are great if you're going to be vaping different atomizers with different resistances ... especially 2-3 ohm range. But that increased voltage to make those atomizers work well comes at a cost ... battery life.
Non-regulated mods are great if you're going to be using rebuildables and want to achieve maximum power with no limitations. The drawback being that your voltage will decrease ... slowly.
So it really comes down to what device you are going to use on the mod. Standard cartos and clearos? The kick makes sense then. RBA atomizers? Waste of money honestly.
Otherwise there is no point really. On a lot of the RBAs hitting the market (THE reason why mechanicals have made a huge comeback) you can barely tell that your voltage is slowing dropping.
I mean ... I can vape for 2-3 days on a mechanical going from 24 watts to ... maybe 10-12? And on my genesis I have an outstanding vape from start to finish. Granted I generally change my battery well before then but that is still something you will never do on a regulated circuit.
Regulated mods are great if you're going to be vaping different atomizers with different resistances ... especially 2-3 ohm range. But that increased voltage to make those atomizers work well comes at a cost ... battery life.
Non-regulated mods are great if you're going to be using rebuildables and want to achieve maximum power with no limitations. The drawback being that your voltage will decrease ... slowly.
So it really comes down to what device you are going to use on the mod. Standard cartos and clearos? The kick makes sense then. RBA atomizers? Waste of money honestly.
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agree with just about everything there tc1...
except the part about increased voltage with regulated on atomizers with 2-3 Ohms... what i believe from what i learned was that higher ohms take less from the batt than LR... where the big draw comes from and why I use IMR batt (hi drain) because they put out the increased voltage better.
so that follows that using an RBA at 2-3 ohms is where you get what you want out of a kick.... to put the voltage up where you want it which a mechanical can't do (go over 3.7 or 4v)...
the math works that out: don't have the formula but you need more amps from a 3.7 device for an LR atomizer than you do for say a VV VW at 5v and 3 ohms.
except the part about increased voltage with regulated on atomizers with 2-3 Ohms... what i believe from what i learned was that higher ohms take less from the batt than LR... where the big draw comes from and why I use IMR batt (hi drain) because they put out the increased voltage better.
so that follows that using an RBA at 2-3 ohms is where you get what you want out of a kick.... to put the voltage up where you want it which a mechanical can't do (go over 3.7 or 4v)...
the math works that out: don't have the formula but you need more amps from a 3.7 device for an LR atomizer than you do for say a VV VW at 5v and 3 ohms.
hmm that said, there are those that like the 2-3 Ohms on an RBA with a VV VW... and more power to them...
myself i love the vape on an SLR with a mechanical, and I have a slew of IMR AW batts charged daily... not a problem, especially when you are loving the vape more..
i get a good amount of time off one charge especially 18650 and 18490 IMRs.
Neither will a mechanical if you're smart enough about it. By the time a battery is over discharging, you'll notice very little vapor. Pretty easy to tell when a battery needs to be swapped out honestly.
I have a few unregulated mods that I kick. I like these mods (the bam and bombshell stinger) because I'm pretty confident that they will last me a long time. Much longer than a zmax, vmax, itaste, vamo or an other Chinese VV mod. I want a regulated vape, but I don't want to spend my money on garage that will fall apart in two months.
@double_
well when you consider how much we spent on smokes, the money spent on say a Zmax VVW or a Vamo is a good investment even if it lasts a year... but yeah thats a good way to manage your money ....
well when you consider how much we spent on smokes, the money spent on say a Zmax VVW or a Vamo is a good investment even if it lasts a year... but yeah thats a good way to manage your money ....
regarding the Kick, which I have not tried, although i really like VW when I am vaping 1.4 and up, I have a Kicklet, from super T that you can get that attaches to any 510 connector... its a module for the kick... and it has rhodium plated contacts for good conductivity too. Havent used it as i use my P+ for SLR genesis... it came with my P+500.
I agree with mostly every one here about why to use a kick - its liking having a ferrari but you camt get out of 2nd gear - you could be vaping a .8 ohm coil at 4.2-3.7v (20w) and youd get lots of watts and a great vape - those "safety charts" are kinda old and meed to be updated - theyve been arpund since 2008 and still say that 1.5 ohm at 4.2v is too hot 
- maybe with a regular 510 atty and an old school cartridge that can't keep up with the juice usage (pyramid tea bag anyone - lol)
and of course there is a but - I can't argue the fact that when I want to use a Carto tank at 1.7 ohm or a kanger evod or pro tank at 1.7 ohms at 10w consistsant and steady -- a kick is great
Bc as the battery drops - to 3.8 or. 3.7 the watts will drop to 7-8 and my vape will change - and I don't want my vape to change
The kick allows me to regulate to 10w until the battery is dead - vs dealing with a fluctuation in vape while the battery drains
Again just my opinion - the kick drains the battery faster bc it's up converting (right word or no) to 10w when the battery is at 3.7 for example - like a vv mod I guess
Another reason I use a kick is because I love my GG and would rather use that kicked than anything else just because I love it - so if I had a choice to just up voltage on a zmax for my Carto tank or use my GG with kick - ill use the GG cause I paid enough money that I deserve to use it
Also if you're using an Ithaka or Odysseus at 2 ohm - the vape quality will go down without a kick - so I can have 4.4 constant volts for 10w on a 2 ohm build and not worry that when it drops to 3.7 it will be a crappy vape - sure I can build a 1 ohm coil but that's not the argument - the argument is a kick worth it and in my examples it is - ill shut up now
- maybe with a regular 510 atty and an old school cartridge that can't keep up with the juice usage (pyramid tea bag anyone - lol)and of course there is a but - I can't argue the fact that when I want to use a Carto tank at 1.7 ohm or a kanger evod or pro tank at 1.7 ohms at 10w consistsant and steady -- a kick is great
Bc as the battery drops - to 3.8 or. 3.7 the watts will drop to 7-8 and my vape will change - and I don't want my vape to change
The kick allows me to regulate to 10w until the battery is dead - vs dealing with a fluctuation in vape while the battery drains
Again just my opinion - the kick drains the battery faster bc it's up converting (right word or no) to 10w when the battery is at 3.7 for example - like a vv mod I guess
Another reason I use a kick is because I love my GG and would rather use that kicked than anything else just because I love it - so if I had a choice to just up voltage on a zmax for my Carto tank or use my GG with kick - ill use the GG cause I paid enough money that I deserve to use it
Also if you're using an Ithaka or Odysseus at 2 ohm - the vape quality will go down without a kick - so I can have 4.4 constant volts for 10w on a 2 ohm build and not worry that when it drops to 3.7 it will be a crappy vape - sure I can build a 1 ohm coil but that's not the argument - the argument is a kick worth it and in my examples it is - ill shut up now
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