Is using "a Kick" really necessary for mechanical mods

[tenshi]

Hello, thanks for the input, but engineers normally need more than one variable to figure out what you mean.

hehe well... Your mod puts out 3.7V, when you build a rba, you don't want the ohms too high otherwise it won't be able to fire. For example, if you build an atty at 2.3 ohms, your wattage will only be 6W. If you generally like 9W, then you can build your rba at 1.50 ohms.

 

[Butters78]

I use mechanicals and no kick. I don't see the point in using something that limits your wattage, which is one of the reasons I started using mechanicals in the first place. The resistance on all my rebuildables are 0.8 ohm, the kick is recommended to have resistance between 1.3-3 ohms. I don't understand why people use a kick with mechanicals...you might as well use a VV/VW device.

For the durability. All my coils come out to 2 ohms for some reason and I like the fact I have regulation and protection. Once I start building supper low ohm coils I won't be using the kick for those.

 

[Orobas]

+1 for shortstop. I have one in my telescope, have another standing by for my iSeason. My face has not been asploded yet.

Thanks for that, I'll look up the Holocron.

ShortStop by Holocron Labs

here you go.

I considered getting a kick.. or better yet, a crown. But really, since I'm mostly rebuilding my own coils it's not really required. As long as my end product is around two ohms it's not necessary. I just wish I had a better way to gauge my remaining battery voltage, since sometimes i get confused if the battery is dying or it's just time to switch flavors.

 

[Nitrobex]

You can meter your batteries. I personally do mechanicals, vw devices, vv devices, and mechanicals with a kick interchangably. I personally do not use any of the fuses though some of my friends do. I do meter my batteries. Here is how I decide what I am vaping on.

Mechanical (no kick) - rocking really high watts with a 0.8 ohm coil
VW device - Vape around 9watts with a LR carto or clearo (Protank/EVOD) or SR carto/Atty
VV device - RBA dripping with a 1.2 ohm coil, LR carto
Mechanical with a kick - Coil between 1.5-3.0 ohms

A meter is a good way to watch your batteries and what I would consider a nessicary tool... harbor freight has them on sale for like less than $5 some times, you can get them pretty much less than $10 from lowes, walmart, radio shack ect ect ect.

 

[Riverboat]

I've read some people don't kick their mechanical mods. Is it really a necessity to use one?

With a Kick you will get the same consistant hit through out the battery charge....plus as your attys ohms changes it will adjust to give you the same watts.... They work well but are abit temperamental at times(wont fire)...I give my mod a little shake when this happens and it fires again...

 

[Kemosabe]

i prefer my mech mod kicked to unkicked. not having power regulation greatly reduces the enjoyment of my vape. having the power start off strong and then end up weak as the batt dies is not what im after. to me, its going backwards technology-wise. "we" figured out a way to eliminate the inconsistent vape, and i am greatful of that.

my reasoning behind getting a mech mod and kicking it was to acheive a consistent, non-PWM vape on the cheap. most mods that have power regulation use PWM. and PWM reduces the quality of your vape. unless of course your using a provari, whos PWM is so incredibly fast (800hz) its unnoticable. further, a provari's voltage variation is fantastic: 0.05v, which creats its superb vape. for a frame of reference, the vamo fires at 37hz with volt variation of 6v. but a provari is also $$$ and instead of trying to justify another provari purchase, i got myself a kick and a mech mod.

using my mech mod unkicked is worthless. JMHO. sub ohm coils are useless for me on a mech mod. they are incredibly too hot on a full battery. sub-ohm coils wouldn't become enjoyable for me until the battery was about to die.

edit: i also enjoy the safety features of the kick. the 1 time i try doing an unoxidized genny build with an unregulated mech mod, i discharged my battery to 2.56v. this is not acceptable to me. i almost ruined the battery. sure it was my fault, but if i had the kick in there, it would have saved me a headache.

 

[tj99959]

i prefer my mech mod kicked to unkicked. not having power regulation greatly reduces the enjoyment of my vape. having the power start off strong and then end up weak as the batt dies is not what im after. to me, its going backwards technology-wise. "we" figured out a way to eliminate the inconsistent vape, and i am greatful of that.

my reasoning behind getting a mech mod and kicking it was to acheive a consistent, non-PWM vape on the cheap. most mods that have power regulation use PWM. and PWM reduces the quality of your vape. unless of course your using a provari, whos PWM is so incredibly fast (800hz) its unnoticable. further, a provari's voltage variation is fantastic: 0.05v, which creats its superb vape. for a frame of reference, the vamo fires at 37hz with volt variation of 6v. but a provari is also $$$ and instead of trying to justify another provari purchase, i got myself a kick and a mech mod.

using my mech mod unkicked is worthless. JMHO. sub ohm coils are useless for me on a mech mod. they are incredibly too hot on a full battery. sub-ohm coils wouldn't become enjoyable for me until the battery was about to die.

^ what he said
I am yet to figure out why so many like those extreme low ohm coils. My RBA's all have 2.5-3ohm coils in them.

 

[Kemosabe]

^ what he said
I am yet to figure out why so many like those extreme low ohm coils. My RBA's all have 2.5-3ohm coils in them.

my three gennys: 2.0Ω, 1.9Ω, and 1.2Ω. i rock the 2.0 at 8-9W, the 1.9 at ~3.9v, and the 1.2 at ~3.3v. they all perform perfectly for me.

 

[Orobas]

You can meter your batteries.

I know, but the results don't mean anything to me.

 

[Trick]

I think a fuse is probably a good idea. I tend to be pretty careful with my coils and have never needed one, but you hear the occasional story of someone collapsing a spring, which I'm sure I'll do eventually. Particularly on expensive PVs, you probably don't want parts melting.

I just like my low-ohm coils too much to let a Kick limit my wattage, and the misfires and other headaches (like, did my PV just misfire or is my battery just low? Dammit, I need to stick my atty in my ear again...) and somewhat regulated vape don't outweigh high wattage for me. I don't need my vape to be consistent across the life of the battery. I'm sure that's something some people like, but I just really couldn't care less about it.

And God forbid you ever need to adjust the wattage. IMHO the Kick makes it far more difficult than it needs to be, and I'm about 20 years past the point I could do it without having to find my glasses.

 

[nahoku]

Thank you all for all the great input! I greatly appreciated it!

As suspected, a lot of opposing views. I already knew how both the kick and 2cent operated and that they were two different devices. What I wanted to hear was the reasoning behind their use and you all gave me that information. I do worry about mechanical safety, as even though testing shows IMR tech to be quite good, there's still devices out there used for protection even with these IMR batteries.

Now... all I have to do is decide to fuse my mod or not... I've already decided not to kick it.

Thank you again!
nahoku

 

[USinchains]

Luckily, this whole thing is about personal experience and preference, and if a large group find something that works for them, we don't need everyone else to understand why.

 

[Nitrobex]

Thank you all for all the great input! I greatly appreciated it!

As suspected, a lot of opposing views. I already knew how both the kick and 2cent operated and that they were two different devices. What I wanted to hear was the reasoning behind their use and you all gave me that information. I do worry about mechanical safety, as even though testing shows IMR tech to be quite good, there's still devices out there used for protection even with these IMR batteries.

Now... all I have to do is decide to fuse my mod or not... I've already decided not to kick it.

Thank you again!
nahoku

To fuse it or not IMHO comes down to what amp draw you are going to have. For example 4.2v (Fresh charge) at 0.6 ohms is a 7 amp drain. Within spec for my AW IMR's, and to my understanding enough amp drain to trip the vape safe. (It is also 29.4 watts.)

IMHO you should meter reguardless.

 

[muzichead]

I use mechanicals and no kick. I don't see the point in using something that limits your wattage, which is one of the reasons I started using mechanicals in the first place. The resistance on all my rebuildables are 0.8 ohm, the kick is recommended to have resistance between 1.3-3 ohms. I don't understand why people use a kick with mechanicals...you might as well use a VV/VW device.

I use the Kick in my Vmod XL because I don't have a rebuildable atty for it and its not VV. Not quite sure why some people can't understand using one in a mechanical. Some people like to use it to get consistency out of the battery life also. To top it off, not everyone likes vaping at over 10 watts either!! The same goes for, I can't understand why you or anyone else wants to put a .8Ω coil on a device...regulated or not... So what does that mean? Am I as confused as you? No... You vape the way you want to vape, and other people will vape the way they want to!! Doesn't have to make sense to you or anyone else or there wouldn't be the selection of vapable options for one to use... Make sense now?

 

[muzichead]

I think a fuse is probably a good idea. I tend to be pretty careful with my coils and have never needed one, but you hear the occasional story of someone collapsing a spring, which I'm sure I'll do eventually. Particularly on expensive PVs, you probably don't want parts melting.

I just like my low-ohm coils too much to let a Kick limit my wattage, and the misfires and other headaches (like, did my PV just misfire or is my battery just low? Dammit, I need to stick my atty in my ear again...) and somewhat regulated vape don't outweigh high wattage for me. I don't need my vape to be consistent across the life of the battery. I'm sure that's something some people like, but I just really couldn't care less about it.

And God forbid you ever need to adjust the wattage. IMHO the Kick makes it far more difficult than it needs to be, and I'm about 20 years past the point I could do it without having to find my glasses.

Been using a Kick in my Vmod XL since September and have not had a problem with it at all... Fires every time I push the button down... I prefer my vape at 10watts... It was a no brainer... Set it and forget it... No glasses required... Not difficult at all... I prefer my vape to be consistent... So because you could care less, means that others should feel the same? Not sure if you noticed or not, but a lot of people vape in different ways. Just because what works for you doesn't mean it will be the same for everyone else!!!

 

[niczgreat]

I'll simplify it for you.

Are you going to be doing extreme vaping. RBA, Dual Coils, High Resistance Attys at High Temps.
If so don't kick.

Are you going for mainstream vaping. Than by all means kick it.

 

[Trick]

Been using a Kick in my Vmod XL since September and have not had a problem with it at all... Fires every time I push the button down... I prefer my vape at 10watts... It was a no brainer... Set it and forget it... No glasses required... Not difficult at all... I prefer my vape to be consistent... So because you could care less, means that others should feel the same? Not sure if you noticed or not, but a lot of people vape in different ways. Just because what works for you doesn't mean it will be the same for everyone else!!!

I never said, or even implied, that everyone should vape the way I do. You're reading way more into what I said than what I actually said.

I don't use a Kick, or like one. They cause me more problems than they do for others like you. I never said otherwise.

If you like yours, great, and have fun with it. I choose to save the $45 for a piece of hardware that makes vaping less enjoyable for me.

 

[aPandaz]

I use the Kick in my Vmod XL because I don't have a rebuildable atty for it and its not VV. Not quite sure why some people can't understand using one in a mechanical. Some people like to use it to get consistency out of the battery life also. To top it off, not everyone likes vaping at over 10 watts either!! The same goes for, I can't understand why you or anyone else wants to put a .8Ω coil on a device...regulated or not... So what does that mean? Am I as confused as you? No... You vape the way you want to vape, and other people will vape the way they want to!! Doesn't have to make sense to you or anyone else or there wouldn't be the selection of vapable options for one to use... Make sense now?

I have my point of view. No need to have a stick up your .... about it. I understand that everyone has a preference, but to me a kick in a mechanical is a round about way of buying a vv device.

 

[KenTCC]

I have 3 mechanical mods that I alternate using. I purchased a kick to use w/ my first mechanical mod prior to purchasing the other 2 mods, and it really performed badly. I had a lot of misfires, and my battery life was extremely short. I automatically blamed the kick, since I've read many posts from people having similar problems. However, using the same kick unit and the same set of batteries I have on my second and third mechanical mods, the kick works flawlessly. I never get misfires, and my battery life improved tremendously. I am not a high wattage vaper, as my "sweet spot" is around 7 watts. For me, the kick is great because I will get the exact same vape every time until the battery dies. Also, the kick will let me know when it is time to swap out my battery. When I vape without the kick, the vape will gradually get weaker, and I always have to kind of guess when to swap out the battery, as I intend to run my battery down to around 3.4-3.5v before I recharge it again.

From my experience, the mod itself has a lot to do with how the kick will perform. Also from this experience I found out that my first mechanical mod has a ton of voltage drop, as I've done a bunch of comparisons and tests with different atomizers, with and without the kick. Another test I did was to check the voltage of my battery once the kick stops working. On my first mechanical mod, the battery still has around 3.8v left, which is still plenty. On my other 2 mods, the battery will have around 3.45 to 3.6v left. I won't name the mods I have, but they are all highly regarded Euro mods. The only thing I can say is if you read somewhere that certain mods seem to have more voltage drop than others, its probably true.

 

[SissySpike]

I have my point of view. No need to have a stick up your .... about it. I understand that everyone has a preference, but to me a kick in a mechanical is a round about way of buying a vv device.

You have to consider when the kick came out it was the only affordable V/W device on the market. You could buy a Darwin, Opus, Or a kick. That was it. There were no Vamos or any of the VW devices that are out now. It still has its place someone can get a geny or RBA to top their mechanical for evening use then throw in a kick and a carto tank or Nova for work or running around.
But you are right there are lots of regulated VW mods available today. Another pluse is its made right here in the good old US of A! When the kick came out there were several unregulated tube mods the silver built. Saber touch, the bolt and a few others. SO the kick made these mods VW regulated so you dident have to buy a provari or spend a 100$ on a lava tube.