iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts

[bill63304]

I have had mine for two or three weeks now and I love it. I also have a vamo and have not used it since I received the I-season. I will be watching for any new solutions to the spring weak spot and mod it when I can to get the best possible performance.

Even with the voltage drop, this thing is clearly my favorite. Right now I am using it with a 1 ohm coil in an aga-s and it kicks .... over anything else I have used. The only negative I can see so far, is that I burn through batteries faster than I would like, especially since I prefer the little ones. Also, I had to add a little thread lock to the switch so it stays tight.

Oh, by the way, my wick is 500 mesh wrapped around one strand of silica. It's working great!

 

[Xylocaine]

I was wondering how the vapor production would be with 1 wrap?

 

[StaircaseWit]

I was wondering how the vapor production would be with 1 wrap?

One wrap of what? Wire? What gauge? You could potentially try it with 28g but you'd have a *very* low resistance coil. Resistance that low would pull a lot of amperage out of the battery, and be potentially dangerous, although as long as the battery is AW/Efest IMR Li-MN the worst it would likely do is vent, ruining your battery and potentially your mod.

 

[muzichead]

I have had mine for two or three weeks now and I love it. I also have a vamo and have not used it since I received the I-season. I will be watching for any new solutions to the spring weak spot and mod it when I can to get the best possible performance.

Even with the voltage drop, this thing is clearly my favorite. Right now I am using it with a 1 ohm coil in an aga-s and it kicks .... over anything else I have used. The only negative I can see so far, is that I burn through batteries faster than I would like, especially since I prefer the little ones. Also, I had to add a little thread lock to the switch so it stays tight.

Oh, by the way, my wick is 500 mesh wrapped around one strand of silica. It's working great!

This would be because you are vaping a low resistance coil and pulling more amps... Even AW IMR batteries were made with the intent of pulling higher amps with say a 1.5 ohm as the lowest, so right there you are putting another 25%+ strain on your battery and that accounts for why you go through them quicker....

 

[MDV39]

So im trying to get this right if I use a 2 ohm coil the voltage drop with the stock spring would be less pronounced than if I used a 1.5 ohm coil? If so then could I just use it as is with the stock spring or is the stock spring garbage at all resistance levels?

 

[JuniorNA]

I know staircase did the numbers and all and numbers dont lie but I still don't feel a difference when compared to the same setup as my lambo and that's really all that matters.

Doesn't anyone have those 10 dollar volt meters from mad vapes that you screw into the atty connector to see what it's pushing out at each type of ohm coil?


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[thecatanddog]

what were you using on it? i was running a .8 ohm twisted 32g out of an IGO L, i really noticed the difference. To be honest if i couldn't have found a fix for the spring, i was going to sell it or give it away, it was pitiful at best. The solid brass contact increases efficiency greatly, brass > stianless steel. like i have mentioned before due to the angle of the spring, the contact it made was horrible, and it really was a bad vape.

 

[StaircaseWit]

So im trying to get this right if I use a 2 ohm coil the voltage drop with the stock spring would be less pronounced than if I used a 1.5 ohm coil? If so then could I just use it as is with the stock spring or is the stock spring garbage at all resistance levels?

Yes, you'll drop more voltage with a lower-ohm coil. Read this if you want the details: Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware

Also read the comments below that blog post for some good examples.

I know staircase did the numbers and all and numbers dont lie but I still don't feel a difference when compared to the same setup as my lambo and that's really all that matters.

Doesn't anyone have those 10 dollar volt meters from mad vapes that you screw into the atty connector to see what it's pushing out at each type of ohm coil?

I agree that the difference is hardly noticeable if you don't actually look at the numbers, and I'm not even running high-ohm coils. My IGO-L was loaded with a 1.5ohm coil when I did my "seat-of-the-pants" test a few pages back, and my multi-meter test was done with a 1.7ohm coil.

A cheap madvapes box isn't going to make a difference: I measured actual voltage of the battery (probes on positive and negative of battery), then probes directly to the positive post and negative screw of the AGA-T2 with a 1.7ohm coil. This gives you the actual drop to the point of the coil, in the electron path being used to reach the coil itself. The drop with the stock spring is there, and it's easily measurable. Those in-line voltage meters work fine, but I'm quite confident in my numbers measuring *actual voltage* at the terminals the coil is attached to.

 

[Lhartman89]

I just measured my CCTS with a 0.7 ohm coil on my AGA-T2 and I got 3.7 volts out of the mod with nothing on it and 2.3 volts at the contacts of the AGA-T2. It still hits damn good and I am getting about 8 watts out of it. I used the formulas from the link above and that is what I came up with. From my calculations, I should be at 19 watts....... You can take the voltage you are getting with load, square that, then divide it by the ohms of the coil to get your watts too. Just so everyone knows, I have already removed the chrome plating on the button, the pole it contacts, the top of the cap where the positive of the battery sits, and the threads between all the body tubes.

3.7/(0.08+0.3+0.7)=3.426 amps
3.426*0.7=2.4 volts
3.426*2.4=8.22 watts

 

[fooey]

Voltage loss should be more noticeable with a 18350 imo

 

[StaircaseWit]

I just measured my CCTS with a 0.7 ohm coil on my AGA-T2 and I got 3.7 volts out of the mod with nothing on it and 2.3 volts at the contacts of the AGA-T2. It still hits damn good and I am getting about 8 watts out of it. I used the formulas from the link above and that is what I came up with.

3.7/(0.08+0.3+0.7)=3.426 amps
3.426*0.7=2.4 volts
3.426*2.4=8.22 watts

I was just wondering what the voltage drop is like on any of these other mods. That's a pretty hefty drop. Looking at pics it looks like a lot of internal chrome plating. I wonder if there's brass hiding under those contacts.

 

[Lhartman89]

I was just wondering what the voltage drop is like on any of these other mods. That's a pretty hefty drop. Looking at pics it looks like a lot of internal chrome plating. I wonder if there's brass hiding under those contacts.

I have already removed the chrome plating on the button, the pole it contacts, the top of the cap where the positive of the battery sits, and the threads between all the body tubes.

 

[StaircaseWit]

I have already removed the chrome plating on the button, the pole it contacts, the top of the cap where the positive of the battery sits, and the threads between all the body tubes.

What's underneath? Brass?

 

[Xylocaine]

I did my measurements using a Phoenix and an AGA T+ and honestly its just not vapable. Both are at higher resistance coils (2 and 2.5 respectively) not necessarily by choice (I've only got 2 true RBAs and they are working and I'd like to not break them if they're not broken) and going from 4.2v to 3.5v or 8.82 watts to 6.12 is just too much of a drop for me.

 

[Lhartman89]

What's underneath? Brass?

Yep! That is why I did it.

I changed battery in my CCTS and I am now getting 10 watts with a fully charged battery.

 

[nnormandy]

Hey folks, I modded mine to accept an 18490 in 18350 tube mode. I also took out the need for a spring, while maintaning proper venting capability. I'll post pictures tomorrow. It also hits harder than with the spring. I have no way to measure it, but it's hitting nearly as good as my iHybrid after the mods I made. STAY TUNED.

 

[Xylocaine]

Hey folks, I modded mine to accept an 18490 in 18350 tube mode. I also took out the need for a spring, while maintaning proper venting capability. I'll post pictures tomorrow. It also hits harder than with the spring. I have no way to measure it, but it's hitting nearly as good as my iHybrid after the mods I made. STAY TUNED.

Thats teasing!

 

[JuniorNA]

I was just wondering what the voltage drop is like on any of these other mods. That's a pretty hefty drop. Looking at pics it looks like a lot of internal chrome plating. I wonder if there's brass hiding under those contacts.

Honestly I guess that's why people are spending anywhere from 2-400$ on a custom GG or caravela or macaveli or Orion or I-hybrid (the list is endless) because these were made in the USA with careful consideration of voltage drop. So I guess you get what you pay for

I wonder If the same drop exists in the smok telescope and other bottom firiing Chinese mods.

Also since the contacts in the iseason are already brass unlike the natural - what is there to Sand down ? The switch is brass - the spring tube is brass - the positive batt connector under the cap is brass - so really just the spring is the weak spot. And like the other user posted - we just need to get a brass screw that we can fit into the spring tube and make sure to vent it out


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[pita1028]

There will almost always be a resistance. It seems like a great mod to me for $35. The only mechanical I've had that didn't drop was my V4 mortar. It has all copper contacts and hits like a train. That also because I can't justify the money needed for a GG or iHy.

 

[Light Seeker]

we just need to get a brass screw that we can fit into the spring tube and make sure to vent it out

the screw mod is a novel idea, but it takes away the 'useability'. Only works if you have a bunch of identical batteries you're constantly swapping in & out. I have a varied collection from different mfgs, some pcb protected, others not, some flat top, some button... And I do like switching between a 18650 to 18360 often. With the screw mod, I'd constantly be adjusting and fiddling for a solid connection.

Believe the answer is find a beefy brass spring with flat ends that fit the tube more precisely.