Ithaka official

[Idaholandho]

I have a little question here, and would appreciate if answered. I think I'm getting a better vape with 36 AWG wire, compared to 32 AWG wire. I am begining to think that the thickness of wire has an effect on the overall vape experience. I know lower ohm readings gives you a warmer vape, but I'm not talking about the warmth, but taste. This might be liquid-dependant of corse.?.... I think a red hot 32 wire gives more heat than a red hot 36 wire, and that may have a role to play. Please corect me if I'm wrong...

Hello Ali,
I agree with you. Juice, Atty, volts, ohms, coil, wick size all are factors in your sweet spot.
1. I find my .28 guage at .08-1.4 ohms provides a cooler and more of a consistant flavor than .32 guage at .08-1.4 This is due to surface area temperature. (my sweet spot is 1.4)
2. If I space my .32 wire with nice gaps I get very easy, nice and flavorful hits. Tighter wraps of any guage will heat up faster and hit fast and hard.
3. at 1.0 ohms with .28 guage it is hard to burn the juice.

There are many variables to producing a cooler vs warmer vs flavorful vape. Just lots of experimenting with coils and wicks.
This thread and explanation may help. I hope it does.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

*Note - please be very careful in sub ohms in set ups. If not educated there is a chance of battery failure and injury.

GL
Chris

 

[madjay]

now who can help me? my ithaka is leaking into my gg. every time i use it all my battery is soaked in liquid-what could be the reason?
what am i doing wrong?

 

[MediocreTrombonist]

Wow. I'm a new owner of Ithaka and really love the performance of it. Very good flavor and vapor even on single coil, but I was blown away by the dual coil performance. And this thread, I've already read so much good information! So thank you to all contributors.

I hate to ask a question out of nowhere, but it's pretty tough to search all of these pages for this answer. It is regarding the center pin. When building the coils and setting up, it seems fine, but put it all together and the center pin is skewed off to the side of the 510 threading. I'll tinker with it soon once this tank runs out, but in case this issue already has some troubleshooting advice, I thought I'd ask here in the meantime.

 

[pl_svn]

I thought I'd ask here in the meantime.

GG ithaka center post align - YouTube

 

[MediocreTrombonist]

Looks like just pressing on it to me!

 

[Lex0r]

Wow. I'm a new owner of Ithaka and really love the performance of it. Very good flavor and vapor even on single coil, but I was blown away by the dual coil performance. And this thread, I've already read so much good information! So thank you to all contributors.

I hate to ask a question out of nowhere, but it's pretty tough to search all of these pages for this answer. It is regarding the center pin. When building the coils and setting up, it seems fine, but put it all together and the center pin is skewed off to the side of the 510 threading. I'll tinker with it soon once this tank runs out, but in case this issue already has some troubleshooting advice, I thought I'd ask here in the meantime.

The center post has potential to become crooked (even more so when doing dual coils because of the extra wire) where the NR wire sits against the plastic nut (negative) and the center post o-ring (positive). When assembling, make sure the plastic nut is flat and that you don't have layers of wire built up (sometimes I don't even make a complete 360 turn). Same with the o-ring for the positive connection, don't let the wires bunch up. Personally, I'd avoid applying perpendicular pressure against the center post after everything is assembled because I would hate myself if I broke it. In the end, even if it is crooked, it won't affect anything...just take the extra time to check the wire setup.

 

[Lex0r]

now who can help me? my ithaka is leaking into my gg. every time i use it all my battery is soaked in liquid-what could be the reason?
what am i doing wrong?

We would need more info about your setup please. Wick size, basic feeding open/closed (is it open on negative or positive channel), juice thickness, whether or not the MP is closed when you fill, etc...

 

[Poppa D]

now who can help me? my ithaka is leaking into my gg. every time i use it all my battery is soaked in liquid-what could be the reason?
what am i doing wrong?

If your batteries are getting soaked, the GGTS center posts orings must be damaged or missing, I assume you're using a collector tank.
The leaking Ithaka is a different matter that has been covered extensively in this thread.

 

[MemphisRib]

I have had long running success (much enjoyed) with Ithaka, and occasional major malfunctions. Happened today again. With a flooding. I saw what went wrong... A tightened the mouthpiece too much, so the rebuildable part moved with it when I tried to loosen after filling. There are a lot of pieces here, and reliable operation requires that some junctions are super tight, and others are a bit " relaxed" tight.

That is not something that is likely that Imeo would see. He knows when to twist hard on, say, the Bf interface with the bottom part, and where the rebuildable part should be cinched down or not to get the seal where it counts. It is not a malfunction, and it is not a design flaw, it is a matter of communicating priorities. I think I am expressing this weakly, but the relationship of the parts seems to be the difference in flawless operation and frustration.

Does this make sense?

 

[madjay]

i use a double coil silica is 1.5 m"m and res is 0.8 ohm. the mouth piece is closed when i start and i open it just a bit & juice is 50/50 and yes i use a collector tank

 

[imeothanasis]

every time you change your ceramic (maybe in a year from now), you have to align the center post Medi my friend. Center post is long and doesnt sit always in right position so you can align it as I did on the video that pl posted

Wow. I'm a new owner of Ithaka and really love the performance of it. Very good flavor and vapor even on single coil, but I was blown away by the dual coil performance. And this thread, I've already read so much good information! So thank you to all contributors.

I hate to ask a question out of nowhere, but it's pretty tough to search all of these pages for this answer. It is regarding the center pin. When building the coils and setting up, it seems fine, but put it all together and the center pin is skewed off to the side of the 510 threading. I'll tinker with it soon once this tank runs out, but in case this issue already has some troubleshooting advice, I thought I'd ask here in the meantime.

 

[imeothanasis]

exactly as you said memp my friend. The main thing we have to remember is that we tight hard the rebuildable part and leave BF closed or barely open when we use thin liquids.

I have had long running success (much enjoyed) with Ithaka, and occasional major malfunctions. Happened today again. With a flooding. I saw what went wrong... A tightened the mouthpiece too much, so the rebuildable part moved with it when I tried to loosen after filling. There are a lot of pieces here, and reliable operation requires that some junctions are super tight, and others are a bit " relaxed" tight.

That is not something that is likely that Imeo would see. He knows when to twist hard on, say, the Bf interface with the bottom part, and where the rebuildable part should be cinched down or not to get the seal where it counts. It is not a malfunction, and it is not a design flaw, it is a matter of communicating priorities. I think I am expressing this weakly, but the relationship of the parts seems to be the difference in flawless operation and frustration.

Does this make sense?

 

[imeothanasis]

Ithaca isnt made to use 1,5mm wick mad my friend. Please use 2,5 or 3mm wick next time

i use a double coil silica is 1.5 m"m and res is 0.8 ohm. the mouth piece is closed when i start and i open it just a bit & juice is 50/50 and yes i use a collector tank

 

[madjay]

so u think its because i use 1.5 silica(tell that to bishopheals ha ha ) and if i will use thicker silica it wont leak?. i was thinking that some how the lower o ring that holds the post wires is to blame. something gets in the way of it that it doesn't block the hole for the post compleatly. i know it is something i am doing just not sure what

 

[RiverNut]

1.5 mm leaves too much empty space in the channels for liquid to flow. 2.5 mm works great. And make sure your housing is screwed on tight to make the seal between the o-ring and the base. If you leave the basic feeding open at all, invert Ithaka while you are screwing on the top cap to avoid flooding. I vape 60/40 so I get flooding if I leave BF open too much and don't invert while screwing on the top cap.
And Poppa is right about leaking on your battery. Inspect your GGTS center post orings for damage.

 

[Aal_]

exactly as you said memp my friend. The main thing we have to remember is that we tight hard the rebuildable part and leave BF closed or barely open when we use thin liquids.

Imeo, if we want to open the BF, we will have to loosen the rebuildable part, and I am afraid this would open the seal at the base.

 

[RiverNut]

you have to adjust basic feeding so that it's open where you want it and then screw both bf and the rebuildable part together until it's sealed

 

[Aal_]

you have to adjust basic feeding so that it's open where you want it and then screw both bf and the rebuildable part together until it's sealed

Still if the bf ring stops, you would be able to screw more the rebuild able part which means it wasn't properly sealed.

 

[RiverNut]

That's right, in which case you unscrew the bf ring enough to not only leave it open where you want it but also seal at the center pin oring.
I have read that it is not necessary that the bf o-ring seal at the base but I haven't confirmed that.

 

[blackwater]

That's right, in which case you unscrew the bf ring enough to not only leave it open where you want it but also seal at the center pin oring.
I have read that it is not necessary that the bf o-ring seal at the base but I haven't confirmed that.

I took my bf o ring off as I never have it screwed down that far. No issues.