Ithaka official
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Imeo, I have a problem with my latest Ithaka- the brass telescopic connection pin is not in the center of 150 - it touches the 510 conncctor when it fully assembled. I checked everything and found no problem. But now I can use the Ithaka only with GGTS base and can't use it in 510 mode. How can I fix the problem?
Okay, I just had my first major leak with my Ithaka, this morning.
I removed both of the top caps and started to fill the tank. Something wasn't right, as it keep taking on e-juice. then, I realized that the juice was leaking into my hand. Duh . . . I had the mouth piece open. What a dummy.
Even Imeo cannot make a device totally DUMMY proof.
- Andy
I removed both of the top caps and started to fill the tank. Something wasn't right, as it keep taking on e-juice. then, I realized that the juice was leaking into my hand. Duh . . . I had the mouth piece open. What a dummy.
Even Imeo cannot make a device totally DUMMY proof.
- Andy
the reason why the center pin is not in the middle of the 510 post:
you screw the center pin to the ceramic housing TOO HARD, and the buttom of the ceramic housing bites the plastic insulator more on one side than the other. unscrew it and take a look at your plastic insulator, and you will see...
you screw the center pin to the ceramic housing TOO HARD, and the buttom of the ceramic housing bites the plastic insulator more on one side than the other. unscrew it and take a look at your plastic insulator, and you will see...
I though it was because of the positive post o-ring not compressing evenly.
Simple enough to adjust regardless...
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I picked one of these up the other day. I don't know how GG does it, but all their attys just get better and better! I always say with GG products, it doesn't get any better then this. But somehow it still does! Good job 
thanks, I just didnt want to set it up until I found out. I am using one I bought used for 2 weeks now, it has the O-rings.
Same thing happend to me today lol. First leak I had in first 2 weeks.
Okay, I just had my first major leak with my Ithaka, this morning.
I removed both of the top caps and started to fill the tank. Something wasn't right, as it keep taking on e-juice. then, I realized that the juice was leaking into my hand. Duh . . . I had the mouth piece open. What a dummy.
Even Imeo cannot make a device totally DUMMY proof.
- Andy
So, a general question. Now that I have found my set ups, and there is nothing to play with. Is there a general consensus on how long a wick works, before a new one is needed? I think my ithakas are about 4 to 6 weeks old, I do a dry burn and clean after each tank. They are still working and seem fine, just wondered if anyone has a certain end date for wicks/coils.
Bringing up the wire welder again. I hate this thing, I've gotten 2 total good welds ever.
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No general consensus because every juice vapes differently. And everyone has different tastebuds. I finally changed my Ithaka coil on Monday that I installed around 5/1. But my old juices killed any coil in any device in a day or 2.
Thanks fright, you must have vaped some crazy juices. In the past I had a few nets that would gunk up to much to where I can taste it after about 3mls, but never a juice that completed killed a coil.
I figured these can go quite a while seeing as some commercial drip atties are used for months.
I figured these can go quite a while seeing as some commercial drip atties are used for months.
Its probably posted somewhere, but I will ask....will there be "steel windows" made for Ithaka? If so, when will they be available, I do niss the all steel look!
I have a few questions from a new, and very happy, Ithaka user. First, I have a very small amount of juice coming out of the bottom, around the air hole where the ring is. Is it just left over vapor coming out? Is that normal, or do I have a very small leak somewhere? I took my time building it and made sure that all O-rings were seated properly, if I could see them anyway. And, second, has anyone used MM Agent Orange in an Ithaka and does it cause any problems with the plastic window. I have an extra, but I don't want to mess the original up by using a juice when I can order a SS one and avoid the problem all together. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Anyone have a tip on how to get a rock solid connection with the leg thats captured by the o-ring? I'm getting seriously sporadic ohm readings and feel that it HAS to be do to a loose connection somewhere.
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