Ithaka official

[Mikeyman95]

I think my ithaka will arrive today. I'm so excited I can't sit still. But I didn't order the ready wires till today.

Can I use ordinary kanthal without creating a ? I think I have 28 & 30? And 3mm silica wick. I don't think I can wait for my ready wires to arrive...

I can put the ithaka on my vamo and it won't shut down?

Thx much

 

[xrufx]

Thank you for so many helpful replies. I'll reply in general since so many helped chime in (which I greatly appreciate).

Try closing the basic feed & use the mouthpiece for juice control.
I cleaned out the coils and dry burned them. Reassembled with basic feed shut off so only using mouth piece to adjust juice. Maybe Ekowool doesn't need basic feed?

What is the maximun voltage you can configure on the Vamo with that resistance (1.3 ohms)?
1.3 is the Vamo cut-off so I built to that spec. I am running stacked 18350 batteries and can push to a full 6 volts. Using an online calculator I get the following: 1.3 ohm coil at 6 volts = 27.7 watts and 4.6 amps (vamo has 5 amp limit).

If you do not have a mechanical device, I think you will get better results with a single coil configuration...
My first attempt was a single coil 1.9 ohm. Maybe I didn't have the voltage cranked enough?

As you are configuring the wicks / coils in parallel, try to maintain both coils closer each other...
This is good advice and I will look into it asap. I tried a X pattern but got .2 ohms which won't work on Vamo. Can coils touch each other or should I put a buffer wick in between them?

Keep in mind that yoou need a good battery...
I'm using stacked Efest 18350 batteries. I think that's what allows me to get 6 volts. Would a 18650 battery in a mechanical mod put out enough voltage?

 

[Mini Cooper S]

How many wraps with the supplied ready wire?


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[xrufx]

I think my ithaka will arrive today. I'm so excited I can't sit still. But I didn't order the ready wires till today.

Can I use ordinary kanthal without creating a ? I think I have 28 & 30? And 3mm silica wick. I don't think I can wait for my ready wires to arrive...

I can put the ithaka on my vamo and it won't shut down?

Thx much

As you can see from my postings here I am still trying to figure out how to make this device work on a Vamo as well, so I don't have a magic recipe yet. But what I can tell you is this:

-The Vamo can handle up to 5.0 Amps but you have to use stacked 18350 batteries to enable this 5.0 Amp limit
-It won't fire anything below 1.3 ohms

hth. I'm still a noob to the Ithaka.

 

[Mikeyman95]

As you can see from my postings here I am still trying to figure out how to make this device work on a Vamo as well, so I don't have a magic recipe yet. But what I can tell you is this:

-The Vamo can handle up to 5.0 Amps but you have to use stacked 18350 batteries to enable this 5.0 Amp limit
-It won't fire anything below 1.3 ohms

hth. I'm still a noob to the Ithaka.

But I think you are using ready wire yes? What will happen when I use 28 or 30 kanthal?

I can tell you this: something is going to get lit up that's for sure.

 

[ins0mnia]

Hi guys,

I finally received my Ithaka (stunning device!) and I was wondering if I could get some help (I'm a newbie please bare with me):

1. I built it with one 2mm silica coil, 1.3ohm, (perfect), works on my Provari Mini as well as GP Lux - but vapor production is not good enough (comparing to my GP Spheroid). So, dual coil time! (which is why I bought the Ikatha over a Kayfun)

2. Dual 2mm coils, Provari Mini showing 0.8ohm (I guess that's expected); but it didn't work with the Provari Mini (as somewhat expected), switching to mechanical, GP Lux not pumping enough voltage (which is surprising) so that didn't work either.

So I figured I might just as well compliment the Ithaka with a GGTS (should arrive in few days). My two questions are:

1. Dual coils at 0.8ohm does that sound right or did I build it wrong? Not working with the Mini / Lux is that expected (from experience)?
2. Can I stack two IMR 18350 batteries into a GGTS (thought I'd ask before I try, read somewhere stacking batteries is bad?) and would that do the job with my 0.8ohm build?

Thanks in advance for any tips

 

[xrufx]

But I think you are using ready wire yes? What will happen when I use 28 or 30 kanthal?

I can tell you this: something is going to get lit up that's for sure.

I am building my own wires with 32awg kanthal and .2mm nickle. I thought about using ready wires but I wanted to be able to make fine adjustments to ohms, overall length, and number of wraps. With this configuration of materials I got 4 or 5 wraps (should have taken a picture).

 

[Electraglide1]

Thank you to all for giving us new to the GG the replies and help. I had some silver wire wires coming and will get the nickel ordered. Thanks again.

 

[Izan]

Hi guys,


1. Dual coils at 0.8ohm does that sound right or did I build it wrong? Not working with the Mini / Lux is that expected (from experience)?


2. Can I stack two IMR 18350 batteries into a GGTS (thought I'd ask before I try, read somewhere stacking batteries is bad?) and would that do the job with my 0.8ohm build?

Thanks in advance for any tips

The mini is expected, the lux should work...perfectly

Uhh.. stacked 18350s under a .8Ω coil will need a battery rated at 12C or better and will push close to 88 watts...DO NOT DO THIS

Good luck

I

 

[ins0mnia]

haha thanks for the warning and saving my ggts from taking fire!! then I guess something is wrong with my lux, will check it out. Would you recommend a single 18560 battery for such setup or 18350 would do just fine?

Thanks again

The mini is expected, the lux should work...perfectly

Uhh.. stacked 18350s under a .8Ω coil will need a battery rated at 12C or better and will push close to 88 watts...DO NOT DO THIS

Good luck

I

 

[levisdaddy]

gots some 1.8ohm ready wires, and forgot to buy wick!
gonna try lightingvapes on ebay that was recently mentioned in this tread. unless i can make time to get some locally at a b&m.
My Ithaka has not arrived yet, and I am not gonna lie, I am kinda intimidated by it and the steep learning curve. I imagine after a handful of coils and some tweaking and some Q&A on this thread (+videos) Ill be vaping like a SIR in no time!
I have a couple cheap mechs that i plan on using it with, unless i go single coil then i can maybe on a vamo. ima try and save up for a GG

 

[yankeebobo]

NO STACKING unless you watch some vids, do some homework, do some research, and some more research. The GGTS would ultimately survive. Yes you may replace some internal parts if it's not done right. Those batteries, if not properly rated COULD explode. And worse case, yes you can be hurt.
I know we have a lot of new GG vapors here. Please, PLEASE, do your homework. I want for no offense to be taken, and I sincerely hope there is no offense. But I am hoping nobody causes themselves harm.

 

[yankeebobo]

Back on track after my public service announcement. I can run single coil and dual coils. Clocked at about 1 ohm total vapor can be in abundance. One if the biggest misconception is more juice, lower ohm, more vapor. Not always. When you over feed the wick, sometimes it drowns and fails to produce vapor to satisfaction. Think when you first setup. You wet the wick, burned to make sure it fires. Wet it some more, set basic fees to full on and assembled. Close the mp and vape it off. Then open as flavor changes.

 

[Izan]

haha thanks for the warning and saving my ggts from taking fire!! then I guess something is wrong with my lux, will check it out. Would you recommend a single 18560 battery for such setup or 18350 would do just fine?

Thanks again

Sorry for the Fork....
Both batteries are rated at 4.2v Max and 3.7v nom.
The first two numbers are the diameter of the battery in mm 18XXX is 1.8cm or 18mm wide.
The second two numbers represent the length of the battery in mm, XX650 is 65mm long, XX350 is 35mm long (nipple may or may not be included in length)
The last digit is the shape of the battery, "o", round.
Batteries will be rated in mAh and also output (C rating), may be microchip protected, unprotected, or of varying chemistry (li-po,ICR).

It behooves you to spend a week or so making this kind of stuff "second nature". (Lithium batteries are in almost every portable device we own.)

Hope to see you around...
Have fun
I
Lux.. center post issue?

PM if you have other questions since we are OT.


Unfork

 

[xrufx]

Back on track after my public service announcement. I can run single coil and dual coils. Clocked at about 1 ohm total vapor can be in abundance. One if the biggest misconception is more juice, lower ohm, more vapor. Not always. When you over feed the wick, sometimes it drowns and fails to produce vapor to satisfaction. Think when you first setup. You wet the wick, burned to make sure it fires. Wet it some more, set basic fees to full on and assembled. Close the mp and vape it off. Then open as flavor changes.

I just closed off my juice feed per your suggestion and have been vaping for about 2 minutes with no basic feed and no juice feed... still vaping along and low and behold it's improving. The throat-coating film is subsiding and vapor is still good. I believe I have much tweaking to do. Thank you for the suggestions.

 

[yankeebobo]

I just closed off my juice feed per your suggestion and have been vaping for about 2 minutes with no basic feed and no juice feed... still vaping along and low and behold it's improving. The throat-coating film is subsiding and vapor is still good. I believe I have much tweaking to do. Thank you for the suggestions.

Tweak a little at a time. You'll find that sweet spot. And then use the sic control ring to make further adjustments. It will adjust the draw which does have an impact on more than just tight or loose draw.

 

[gurusi]

Hi, got mu ithaka in the post at last!!

I have the new center pin top post nut in a separate baggy and cant for the life of me work out where to place it/exchange it for another part. I have looked at vid reviews, searched related posts but am still unsure. I realise the reason for the change of part (gurgling).

Does it go in place of the black rubber nut under the ceramic housing and if so flange up or down?

I'm being really dense so good description or a pic would be most helpful!

thanks

 

[subver]

It replaces the tall nut that goes inside the ceramic, which screws onto the center post

It replaces this:

Be sure to screw it with the larger side touching the ceramic.

 

[gurusi]

It replaces the tall nut that goes inside the ceramic, which screws onto the center post

It replaces this:

Be sure to screw it with the larger side touching the ceramic.

Hi thanks for pic and description. Huh, wasn't expecting it to be that part as I thought the original nut could be set to open or closed position over the two ceramic slots underneath...

is it worth trying the original nut or swap to the new nut from the start?

Thanks again

 

[subver]

Hi thanks for pic and description. Huh, wasn't expecting it to be that part as I thought the original nut could be set to open or closed position over the two ceramic slots underneath...

is it worth trying the original nut or swap to the new nut from the start?

Thanks again

Yeah absolutely try it out and see if you like it. Not everyone had gurgling problems, some people prefer the original nut as well.