I would almost wear that as a wig & then I could just pluck out a strand whenever I needed one
sure icig
inside diameter 3mm
outside diameter 6mm
thickness 1,5mm
Not true. I have many of them and they patina beautifully.... and I've heard that brass turns ugly black in a day or two
(same as my TS' button![]()
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Not true. I have many of them and they patina beautifully.
Does anyone know if dead soft silver nr wires works with the mini zapper? I got a zapper specifically for my Ithaka and it just won't weld it to my 32 awg kanthal. I just want to make sure and see if its just me that needs more practice or if it just doesn't work with silver wire.
TIA
Hey Pillow, thanks for your reply. Well, I made the coil with the silica and ready wire that came with the Ithaka. Fairly straight forward build. Single coil diagonally placed, basic feeding closed and tightened everything down well. Also tightened the top 2 pieces separately with the top nut screwed on very slowly to not cause pressure on the tank. Now in hindsight, I think a went around the pos and neg posts more than just once. That could be the cause of my leaking through the 510/GG connector. I'm using it without the adjustable airflow or 510 base attached straight on my MKB ts as I've lent my GG ts to a friend. With juice control closed, I took a few drags without firing to prime the wick then opened juice control up just enough to where I could see the wick(maybe ~3mm). Fine for a few minutes. Put the devise down(upright) for 10 mins and come back to have a vape and I have major gurgling. I close juice control and gurgling doesn't improve even after 5 mins of vaping. I unscrew the Ithaka from the MKB and there's a ton of juice on the connector and pooled in the collector. I attempted to blow the juice out if the bottom to clear it out but it just kept coming and didn't clear up indicating there's a constant leak..not just a monetary leak. So i cleaned off all the juice and kept juice control closed for a few days...only to come back, unscrew the Ithaka to check for leaking e liquid and find another pool of juice in the collector tank. Granted this was my first build with it, I'm no novice to rebuildables and the build seems very straight forward and quite simple so I'm not sure what's going on. Then I googled "Ithaka leaking" or "Ithaka gurgling" and was surprised to find that its extremely common and there were tons of threads about it...with many claiming that the new center post would solve the problem.
Can I use a multimeter to test how many volts my Tsaf is putting out? How would I do that without doing damage to the leads/MM or anything like that?
absolutely, in lieu of a very long discussion, here is a good start.
Multi-Meter How to for Electronic Cigarette users - YouTube
Hello imeo.
I cannot find anywhere local to sell me that size of o ring. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could get them local?
Or
Imeo could you tell me what the compound of the o ring is so I can order them if I need to?
Oh tsaf,Thanks! I do use my multimeter to check ohms/volts on my devices, but I'm wondering how I would do it for my little wire welder.
I'm assuming I just charge the Tsaf up as I normally would and just put the probes on the welder clips and test for voltage? I mean I guess that makes sense, all it's doing is sending a current down to the alligator clips. I just want to make sure I won't be screwing anything up.
Also, won't it just be a quick shot of volts, not a sustained current? How would I accurately test that?
It's not super important, but I am curious!
I misread.Don't be surprised if they are too short. They are not made for GG. Your welcome I guess?
Maybe this is a dumb question, you said Single coil diagonally placed, are you filling the other two channels with wick (to form a X pattern)?
I'm asking because a friend that was having massive leaking / gurgling on his Ithaka, he installed a single coil / wick diagonally, but he has left the other channels without wick.
For single coil, I think the best setup is two parallel wicks (all channels filled with wick) and the resistance wire around both wicks, joining them at the center.
If your zapper has a digital display that you can see your volts, keep the volts between 120 and 130, no higher because it melts the silver. I have found this to be a sweet spot on mine and can even zap ribbon wire to silver at this setting.
Can I use a multimeter to test how many volts my Tsaf is putting out? How would I do that without doing damage to the leads/MM or anything like that?
So when you all set up in the X config, and you are using two 3ohm ready wires you come up with 1.5 as the final ohm right? Thank you