Thanks for the suggestion, but i have already Ody's doing their duties. Everytime i have a spare part, i see myself completing it with remaining parts to make a new atomizer. I ended up with a lot, I am not sure if I ever used them all lol.
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Thanks for the suggestion, but i have already Ody's doing their duties. Everytime i have a spare part, i see myself completing it with remaining parts to make a new atomizer. I ended up with a lot, I am not sure if I ever used them all lol.
Important Question....
I know you probably won't give me a definitive yes/no on this question, but I figured I'd ask. This is the one issue with the Ithaka (in my mind) that keeps it from being one of the best RBAs/tanks ever created.
The airflow on the Ithaka is far too restrictive. Even @ wide open. I have a feeling the creators/people who influenced the creation/design of this product are all "mouth hitters", and I'm willing to bet their daily devices didn't/don't have drilled out airholes.
For all of us vapers who like sub 1.0 ohm (or around there), nine times out of 10 we're expanding our airholes so we can take a nice big lung hit.
So my question to you is: Do you think it would be possible to drill out the Air Flow Control Hole with a Dremmel? I'm sure it's possible if done carefully, but I wanted to ask you first, in case you've spoken to anyone whos brought that up, or maybe even tried expanding the airhole.
**Of course I know I'm taking a big risk in messing up the device, but I'm hoping an ECF member on here has ran across someone who has done it or tried it. I realize that there's a chance I'll ruin my Ithaka - in that case I'll buy another one. For me, It's worth the risk because I feel like this thing could hit soooo much better than it does... all because of this puny little air hole.
The design of the ceramic slot for wicks, the tank, everything about it I love!! That's why I bought it, but I felt like they really left a lot of people high and dry with that super stock small air hole.
I know you probably won't give me a definitive yes/no on this question, but I figured I'd ask. This is the one issue with the Ithaka (in my mind) that keeps it from being one of the best RBAs/tanks ever created.
The airflow on the Ithaka is far too restrictive. Even @ wide open. I have a feeling the creators/people who influenced the creation/design of this product are all "mouth hitters", and I'm willing to bet their daily devices didn't/don't have drilled out airholes.
For all of us vapers who like sub 1.0 ohm (or around there), nine times out of 10 we're expanding our airholes so we can take a nice big lung hit.
So my question to you is: Do you think it would be possible to drill out the Air Flow Control Hole with a Dremmel? I'm sure it's possible if done carefully, but I wanted to ask you first, in case you've spoken to anyone whos brought that up, or maybe even tried expanding the airhole.
**Of course I know I'm taking a big risk in messing up the device, but I'm hoping an ECF member on here has ran across someone who has done it or tried it. I realize that there's a chance I'll ruin my Ithaka - in that case I'll buy another one. For me, It's worth the risk because I feel like this thing could hit soooo much better than it does... all because of this puny little air hole.
The design of the ceramic slot for wicks, the tank, everything about it I love!! That's why I bought it, but I felt like they really left a lot of people high and dry with that super stock small air hole.
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I can not understand why you need more air.
Do you vape directly by the lungs???
Anyway... you can remove completely the adjustable air base from your Ithaka and without being put on your mod, take a virtual puff and you'll see that the air flow is the same, as if you had the adjustable air base on Ithaka fully opened.
The hole is good enough and you don't have to damage your adjustable air base.
If you want more air, you have to make bigger the hole of center post and I wouldn't recommend that.
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Yeah.. how thick are the wicks you are using? Sometimes when I have too much wick (like 3 strands in the ceramic) it's harder to pull (more restrictive), but still never really a huge issue.
The restriction could be at the bottom of the adjustable connector pin. A deeper slit can allow more air through at the point where air enters into the air tube. It can be cut deeper with a cutting disc on a Dremel.
He has to try to remove the brass pin and the base and try to take a lung draw without wick and coil. If its not enough then you have to drill a bigger hole bit I don't think it would work out nicely. If it's good enough move to the next part which is the brass pin and so on.
What gauge wire works best for making res/nores ready wires?
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It depends on what PV ph0k is using with his Ithaka . If the PV connector is flat with no groove that would limit the air flow down to the groove in the end of the Ithaka adjustable connector which is not that big. The solution is to deepen that groove, not broaden the air hole. Broadening the air tube would still be limited by the small groove, it wouldn't gain as much air flow.
That is assuming the wick isn't blocking the airway.
That is assuming the wick isn't blocking the airway.
That is why he starts with the air tube on its own. No use of making bigger slots if air tube is too tight for him.
I think the conversation has to start with the PV that you are also using with the Ithaka. My apologies if I missed that.
Having two Ithakas on two different GGTS builds, I have almost no restriction with my draw and am able to lung hit if needed. Quite a few of my builds end up <1 and no issue with any stock GG atty.
Poppa D is on to something about the dremel. I did that on my 3rd GGTS and cant remember for which atty.
Subver is also correct as trying a different wick config may also help.
Test the draw with no wick at all and if the draw is tight you can eliminate everything else.
GL
I have slight up and down movement on my Ithaka mouthpiece is this bad? I figure its probably just moving in the threads but I need to ask I'm a little concerned.
Hmmm interesting, mine don't have that, they are very sturdy and solid. Mine are the normal mouthpieces... Do you have the telescopic mouthpiece?
I would think the ceramic housing must be slightly loose on the bottom. Too many fine threads on mouthpiece to move (unless its the telescopic one-then I have no knowledge).
Nope It has the oem mouthpiece right now so Ill bet it is the ceramic in the bottom cuz I checked and there is a wee smidgen of fluid around the oh ring!
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Thanks bro I do think thats it. I only build it on the weekends so Ill see then get back and let yall know what it was
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